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Think my Output Shaft Seal is Leaking, Need a DIY and Advice on 30MM Nut

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    Think my Output Shaft Seal is Leaking, Need a DIY and Advice on 30MM Nut

    I've got a nasty leak at the back of my transmission. I've got to replace my shift selector seal (I destroyed it without realizing I didn't have a replacement handy). Judging from the leak it looks like it's most likely the output shaft seal. I'm thinking pulling the tranny is the best way to get the 30mm nut off. Looks like it's a pain in the arss.

    This may sound like a dumb question, but if I pull the tranny and build a wooden jig to hold it upright - what will stop the 30mm nut from spinning when I try to break it as there is no resistance from the engine on the input end?

    Does anyone have a DIY of removing the nut and replacing the output seal? I've read it's easy to mess up the seal. I'd like to supplement my Bentley Manual. If I'm going to pull the tranny should I do my input shaft seal too even if it isn't leaking?

    Thanks...
    Last edited by Cloudbase; 12-03-2010, 06:16 PM.
    JOY IS AN E30...


    #2
    Don't pull the tranny if you don't have to. Use a big impact gun, the hammers will break it free. You need a super thinwall socket to get it off. All of the ones I have used were modified in a lathe to get that thin.
    Originally posted by Gruelius
    and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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      #3
      Any chance I could borrow one?
      JOY IS AN E30...

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        #4
        edit nm thats what I tried at first and it wasn't enough. I'll try to find pics of the setup that finally got it done

        If you have the tranny out, you just need a board with the same location holes as the flange then bolt the flange to the board. It won't be able to turn. Then impact wrench if you're lucky. New one came off with just the impact wrench, but to get the flange off the old tranny it needed some serious heat. And then the impact barely cracked it loose.

        GM Oil Pressure Unit Sender socket 1 3/16'' is thin and deep enough and worked perfectly. Got mine at advance for like 10 bucks or something.

        Last edited by 99em1; 12-03-2010, 07:53 PM.

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          #5
          I borrowed them myself. You can use a bench grinder.
          Originally posted by Gruelius
          and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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            #6
            Just read about the GM oil sender socket on E30tech. I might try to do the job first in the car as I don't think my input shaft is leaking. Seems like most output shaft seals still leak because people don't use proper sealant on the splines. Did you guys use sealant?

            As far as the nut I've got a MAP torch and an electric impact wrench, but I might try to borrow an air wrench. Just hope my 5 gallon compressor is up to the challenge!
            JOY IS AN E30...

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              #7
              Tried a snap-on electric wrench and it was useless lol.

              Acetylene + air wrench did the trick.

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                #8
                I used the cheapest possible electric impact(40$) and it worked...
                I don't know maybe I was lucky. best of luck

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                  #9
                  Charley that is one awesome touring man. Dam!!!

                  Did you guys use sealant on your splines?

                  I've got a Dewalt Impact that is pretty beef, but still short compared to air... Maybe what I lack in impact force I can make for with torching and bravery!
                  Last edited by Cloudbase; 12-03-2010, 09:44 PM.
                  JOY IS AN E30...

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                    #10
                    BUMP>>>

                    I got the nut off with absolutely no problem. 2 hours of PB Blaster soaking, 5 minutes of heat, GM 1 3/16" impact wrench. Pressed my new seal in (slightly further in than the previous). Coated the splines and (gasp) threads with red locktight. Now I can't torque the nut back on. The Bentley Manual says to use 170nm followed by 120nm. At 170nm the engine turns, it even does it at 120nm. I'm working alone so I can't have someone hold the crankshaft pulley. Any tips? I'm thinking about building a wooden flange holder, but I don't have plywood handy and 2x4 will break.

                    BUMP>>>

                    Well I made a crude wooden jig. I got the torque wrench to click (I think) at 120nm, but my wood broke at 170nm. I hit it with the impact wrench just for good measure. Does anyone subscribe to the theory that if a piece of hardware has grease or oil (i.e. old tranny oil or locktight) on it, it shouldn't be torqued to it's original torque value?

                    Anyone out there?
                    Last edited by Cloudbase; 12-05-2010, 08:20 PM.
                    JOY IS AN E30...

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                      #11
                      Threads, especially those that call for high torque, should be cleaned of any dirt or old thread sealant, lubricated with light oil, and torqued to spec.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                        #12
                        They were cleaned as best I could with the transmission in the car. No visible oil, but I'm sure there was a little gear oil residue. The whole tunnel looked like a bomb went off. Plus the lock tight. Do you have any suggestions on how to stop the output flange spinning while I torque it?
                        JOY IS AN E30...

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                          #13
                          You can probably get away with using a breaker bar and pipe extension on the crank nut. Position this so that the extension hits the floor on the right side so that it will hold the crank as you torque the nut. That pressure will be trying to loosen the crank nut, but since it is torqued to 300ft-ls vs the 125ft-lb needed for the output shaft nut it shouldn't loosen.

                          A better way to do this is to bolt a crank tool on the front of the engine and have a helper hold it or brace the tool against the floor. And the best is to fab up a tool (similar to a crank tool) that you bolt to the output flange.
                          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                            #14
                            Thanks. I finally have a few days off to finish the job. I have the crank tool, it came with the car. I haven't looked at the crank shaft, but does it bolt to the crank shaft pulley? Can I get in there without taking the belts off? I've used similar tools changing the timing belt on my Tacoma.
                            JOY IS AN E30...

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                              #15
                              Im thinking of doing this job next week. I have an air powered impact gun, im sure it will remove the 30mm bolt no problem.

                              What is the problem? Removing the nut or pulling out the flange? What are you guys using heat on?

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