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84 325 m52 swap and more

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    84 325 m52 swap and more

    Hey
    I'm located in Calgary, Alberta, Canada I'm 20 and a second year electrical apprentice.
    I have had my e30 for just under a year, bought it last october, and daily drove it for about 10 months. In that time i did all the fluids, timing belt, radiator, plugs, wires and cap. Then i deleted the power steering, built an exhaust for it. I put a chip got some basket weaves, powder coated them and got new tires. Got euro grills and smilies. Then my girlfriends dad backed into it and messed uo my fender, headlight, grill and front valance. so i decided i was gonna do an engine swap and get a different car for a daily driver.

    Here is my car, there is rust on the rear arches which i'm going to fix soon, and i have two clean fenders and am just looking for a valance. Its going to be painted eventually but i think i may just sand down the current paint and spray paint it because i have a lot of little surface rust sports i don't want getting worse, and then it will match more.
    Here it is
    Over 330000km on the body and current m20 but it still runs like a champ
    Also sorry for crappy iphone pictures but its all i Have


    Damage from my Girlfriends dad

    One of the clean fenders

    The plan is
    M52
    Obd1 Swap
    Mishimoto radiator with massives brackets for spal pushernfan
    S52 cams (brand new score on ebay)
    M50 Intake manifold
    Lightened flywheel
    Longtube headers
    3.25 lsd
    E36 steering rack
    Condor speed shop Solid motor, transmission, diff mounts
    Markert Motorworks Harness conversion
    TRM chip
    Rebuilding all stock calipers
    Strip interior to check for rust
    replace cracked dash for non cracked one
    Short shifter of some kind
    Plastic bumper swap
    and there is always other things i will update as i go

    Some time in the future
    GC coilover
    Possibly style 5s
    Complete suspention refresh


    So i bought a 1997 328i with front end damage for my swap. I am going to us the ZF transmission along with the drive shaft.
    here is the car after i was done with it.
    So far i have separated the engine and transmission and tore down the block
    swapped the e34 oil pan and cleaned a lot of parts

    And here is the block

    cleaning it up and getting ready for paint

    I will update as i go but i have a question, when i took apart my head i noticed scratches on one of my cam lobes and its scratched into the the top part of the bearing i think?

    should i just try and get a set in better condition? or can i sand it down with a fine sandpaper? What do you think?

    Anyways, i know this is a long read but i hope you enjoy it, big thanks to FE4R for convincing me to start one. I'm gonna have lots of questions as this is my first build of this large of size.

    Thanks!
    Feedback
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

    #2
    Update
    Got the block painted, turned out pretty well.
    Feedback
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Jurt View Post
      on one of my cam lobes and its scratched into the the top part of the bearing i think?

      should i just try and get a set in better condition? or can i sand it down with a fine sandpaper? What do you think?
      I can't exactly tell from that picture how bad it is but most of them come out scored. I had a set of E36 M3 cams/ ledges that looked like that.

      Comment


        #4
        It's just enought to catch my finger nail on it but it's just the one. Do you think I would be okay to run the new cams in it?
        Feedback
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

        Comment


          #5
          Bump
          Started getting the dash ready to pull it out.
          Feedback
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

          Comment


            #6
            Update
            finished pulling the dash, i pulled the windshield as it was cracked and i saw a bit of rust on the edging, and i drained the oil and coolant getting ready to pull the m20




            im hoping to pull the m20 on friday
            Feedback
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

            Comment


              #7
              250 views and only one comment? It's not that bad is it?
              Well i got sick and didnt manage to get enough done to pull the m20. But i got some other little jobs done.
              I got the wiring harness pulled through the firewall, as well as unbolted the exhaust manifolds from the block.

              Then i started removing my front bumper, it was tucked and the po had hit a pole lightly enough to get the bumper so stuck it couldn't be pulled out. SO out came the sawzall. Only one nut still on but my sawzalls battery died and none of the others were charged.


              I also got my spal pusher fan mounted on to my mishimoto rad with the massive brackets, which work awesome!

              Thats all for today
              Feedback
              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

              Comment


                #8
                Good luck with your build! Thanks for buying my mounts.


                •• Powersteering Deletes • M20 Motor & Trans Mounts • 24V swap mounts • UHMW Offset CABs ••
                •• Rear Subframe Bushings • RTABs • Facebook ••

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by silence View Post
                  Good luck with your build! Thanks for buying my mounts.
                  Thanks! and no problem i cant wait till i can actually run them.

                  So kind of a crappy update, i pulled my carpet and found some pretty bad rust, the po stuck pieces of steel over top and siliconed it so the rust continued to eat away. Take a look


                  so i stripped the sound deadening and found some more rust


                  its all fix able, just more time, but i wanna fix it correctly. Does anyone know what gauge steel the floor pan is? and i have a welder, but right now its set up for flux core welding, am i just going to burn through the floor? Or should i get a shielding gas bottle and mig weld it all? Thanks!
                  Feedback
                  http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i have the same rust situation on my eta thats getting an m50 swap. i was speaking to chris leone (professional welder/shop owner, user xxlbimmer on here) and he advised me to use 20 gauge steel. and using a flux core welder will be a pain in the ass, but it can definitely be done. its all i have to work with.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Awesome man thanks for letting me know, ill have to pick some up, and yeah ill give it a try and if its that bad ill have to get a bottle for shielding gas.
                      Feedback
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

                      Comment


                        #12
                        keep up the good work

                        Comment


                          #13
                          thanks! Will do
                          Feedback
                          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=270560

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Goodluck with the rust man. I would be pissed to discover rust on my car.

                            Motor looks good, I love a painted/refreshed motor. I cannot wait to drop in my m20.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              That bodywork is like 90% of the cars in th UK lol

                              Rotten shitters a=plenty.

                              Keep up the good work, early cars are the best

                              Comment

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