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VAC oil pan baffle, S52 / E34 pan

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    VAC oil pan baffle, S52 / E34 pan

    Hi everyone, I would like some input from the people who have tackled this exact issue. I'm in the process of installing a VAC oil pan baffle for the E34 oil pan. The engine I have is the S52B32. My E34 oil pan has a built-in mini baffle and windage tray riveted on. I believe it's from a 93 E34? Not 100% on this.

    Couple of questions for the wiser to verify so I don't go destroying things:

    1. Do I drill out the rivet holding the oil pan baffle in place? Or do I try and pry it out?
    2. Keep the E34 windage tray when installing the pan? I haven't removed the S52 oil pan yet to see what's under there. I'm assuming I need to remove the S52 windage tray once I open it up.
    3. Suggestions on where to place the welds once installed?

    Here are pictures for reference:
    Vac baffle:


    My E34 oil pan:


    Do I drill this rivet out, or try and pry it out?


    Comparison of baffles:


    Just a noobie looking for confirmation


    TIA
    sigpic

    #2
    never knew that was avail!.......hmmmmm...

    my oil pressure gauge confirms a baffle would be a good thing as op drops on hard long lt handers.

    Id just call VAC.....get it done right.

    do u run a gauge?....if u do, lets hear if this thing works!
    I love sitting down and just driving!

    Comment


      #3
      Drill out the rivet. The existing baffle comes right out after that.

      I drilled and tapped where the rivet used to be and put an M6 bolt there to retain the VAC baffle. You can put a weld there as well, but at the time I didn't have a welder that could weld aluminum.

      I kept the E34 crank baffle.

      You'll probably have to clearance the VAC baffle a little bit so that it fits into the sump.

      Originally posted by whysimon
      WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by FredK View Post
        Drill out the rivet. The existing baffle comes right out after that.

        I drilled and tapped where the rivet used to be and put an M6 bolt there to retain the VAC baffle. You can put a weld there as well, but at the time I didn't have a welder that could weld aluminum.

        I kept the E34 crank baffle.

        You'll probably have to clearance the VAC baffle a little bit so that it fits into the sump.

        Thanks FredK!
        sigpic

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by JRKOUPE View Post
          never knew that was avail!.......hmmmmm...

          my oil pressure gauge confirms a baffle would be a good thing as op drops on hard long lt handers.

          Id just call VAC.....get it done right.

          do u run a gauge?....if u do, lets hear if this thing works!
          Still putting things together and prepping... will post updates in the future.
          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            I've been looking for a baffle like this.

            Do you have any pictures of the baffle installed in the pan?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by MyE30 View Post
              I've been looking for a baffle like this.

              Do you have any pictures of the baffle installed in the pan?
              I'll post some when it's done
              sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                Just had my shop install my VAC baffle a couple weeks ago, and finally testing the cars limits again this Sunday.....

                My shop drilled the rivets out, and welded the pan in. They did have to clearance the pan a little, but left the stock windage tray in.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by R3Z3N View Post
                  Just had my shop install my VAC baffle a couple weeks ago, and finally testing the cars limits again this Sunday.....

                  My shop drilled the rivets out, and welded the pan in. They did have to clearance the pan a little, but left the stock windage tray in.
                  Justin, I've been clearancing mine out all day today! Do you have any pictures of where they welded it?
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    No, I don't have any pics. :-( I did get to autocross the car just this weekend, first time I have pushed it with baffle, and I still got the 24v S52 ticking, but it was much less, and it went away about 15 min after finishing the Autoxing. It even disappeared during the lunch break, but of course came back. Next is oil cooler and accusump, or the ARC subframe and S54 modified pan and dual pickup. Before the ticking lasted all day, and went away just before the 1.5hr ride home. IMO worth it!
                    Last edited by R3Z3N; 09-18-2013, 10:16 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by R3Z3N View Post
                      Before the ticking lasted all day, and went away just before the 1.5hr ride home. IMO worth it!
                      I have S50 engine and get the clicking by the end of the day.

                      Looking into the baffle, cooler, and or dry sump.
                      Starts to get into some dollars $$.
                      I autocross mostly, but will be doing some track as well.

                      Looking for opinions of what to do.
                      I am not a cheaper person, but pockets are not unlimited.
                      1987 BMW 325is,(M3 S50 Swapped)-Current
                      2010 FJ Cruiser, aka E30 Support Vehicle-(Daily)
                      2008 Scion xB Lowered
                      2001 BMW 325i
                      1995 BMW 318ti
                      1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
                      1965 Ford Mustang Coupe

                      My Thread

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I'm using a Rogue Engineering custom baffle, crank scrapers, e34 pan and pickup and a VAC billet oil filter block off plate. I plumbed a system out of -10 AN lines utilizing a Euro E36 M3 oil cooler, a trans-dapt remote oil filter mount with a Wix 51515R filter and a 3 quart canton accusump with electric valve.

                        *Note* Do not use the Canton check valve! It decreases your flow rate by a significant amount. Even bumping my idle to 1200 rpm i was experiencing low oil pressure (<5 psi). The anti-drainback valve built into the filter suffices as a check valve. After removing the check valve that went away and my oil temps actually dropped by another 5-10 degrees.

                        With almost 300 hp to the wheels and 235 wide slicks i get absolutely no ticking!
                        The best one-stop shopping for German car parts and lifestyle: http://www.gutenparts.com/

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thinking this right now, or is this to much for value of motor?

                          Just do baffle? Or better time wise $$ to do whole thing.

                          I also priced it out at VAC, about $200 less.




                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          1987 BMW 325is,(M3 S50 Swapped)-Current
                          2010 FJ Cruiser, aka E30 Support Vehicle-(Daily)
                          2008 Scion xB Lowered
                          2001 BMW 325i
                          1995 BMW 318ti
                          1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
                          1965 Ford Mustang Coupe

                          My Thread

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by berlow94 View Post
                            I'm using a Rogue Engineering custom baffle, crank scrapers, e34 pan and pickup and a VAC billet oil filter block off plate. I plumbed a system out of -10 AN lines utilizing a Euro E36 M3 oil cooler, a trans-dapt remote oil filter mount with a Wix 51515R filter and a 3 quart canton accusump with electric valve.

                            *Note* Do not use the Canton check valve! It decreases your flow rate by a significant amount. Even bumping my idle to 1200 rpm i was experiencing low oil pressure (<5 psi). The anti-drainback valve built into the filter suffices as a check valve. After removing the check valve that went away and my oil temps actually dropped by another 5-10 degrees.

                            With almost 300 hp to the wheels and 235 wide slicks i get absolutely no ticking!

                            that is impressive........no post v train noise at all after track time......???
                            I love sitting down and just driving!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by JRKOUPE View Post
                              that is impressive........no post v train noise at all after track time......???


                              Correct. Neither autox nor track will make any lifters tick at all.
                              Before I did all of this it would tick like crazy.
                              Also dropped my oil temps from 270-280 to about 230-240 which im very happy with. I'm running Liqui-moly racetech 10w60.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              The best one-stop shopping for German car parts and lifestyle: http://www.gutenparts.com/

                              Comment

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