Leaking from valve cover gasket or cam seal, & is this cap fried?

[Chilezen]

I rebuilt the motor about 500 miles ago. Finally made time to address it. It's made a mess of my driveway.

I traced the oil up the front, I'm positive it is the front. I can't see a source behind the cam gear, so I'm wondering if there's a reliable method of locating it before pulling the T belt off. Also the T belt looks a bit moist. Judging by the picture, the outside of the cap is oiled but the inside and the rotor is dry. The black cover behind the rotor was..okay. I haven't pulled of the valve cover yet, I'm hoping someone will tell me it's that, so I don't have to pull of the cam gear.

2nd concern: the car sometimes, though not often, stutters/surges/hiccups/chokes on acceleration (regular driving around town). Inline fuel pump isn't that old, I replaced the filter a couple weeks ago, but the tank pickup hasn't been touched. I have the correct plugs. I've been suggested that the rotor and cap are the cause. Looking at the pictures, would you concur?



Edit: new rotor on the way along with new seals. Will update when I have time again to find the leak based on what I've learned below. Thank you!

[whodwho]

That definitely could use replacing.

[dewme5]

You are going to have to start pulling things apart to find the source. The timing belt is going to have to be removed regardless of the leak location, so while you don't want to do it, it won't be wasted effort.

[Madhatter]

oil degrades rubber too, so if you are saying the belt is wet, if it's oil drenched and has started to absorb the oil, you really should replace the belt.

[jeffnhiscars]

Oreilly sells an oil dye that glows under UV. Great way to locate a leak.

[goldenbb]

If the cap is all covered in oil like that, wouldn't it be the front cam seal?

[Wanganstyle]

Wait you "rebuilt" the engine and did not replace the fuel pump or cap and rotor?

how south of the border was this "rebuild"

did you also re-use the old spark plugs?


CHANGE WEAR ITEMS; otherwise nothing will ever work properly.

[Chilezen]

You are going to have to start pulling things apart to find the source. The timing belt is going to have to be removed regardless of the leak location, so while you don't want to do it, it won't be wasted effort.

You're right, I was hoping that wasn't true. Thanks.

Oreilly sells an oil dye that glows under UV. Great way to locate a leak.

I'll look for that, thanks. Has anyone used this before with good results?

If the cap is all covered in oil like that, wouldn't it be the front cam seal?

My train of thought too. Oil wouldn't(?) reach that far if it were only the valve cover leaking.

Wait you "rebuilt" the engine and did not replace the fuel pump or cap and rotor?

how south of the border was this "rebuild"

did you also re-use the old spark plugs?

I spent $2k on the rebuild, I didn't have much extra to spend on every part of the car. It's a project car, not my daily.

Yes I have the correct plugs (Bosch WLCR or something, don't remember of the top of my head). New cap and rotor are on the way, guess I'll get a new belt and cam seal too.

Can I reuse the valve cover gasket (if I seal it with black RTV)?

Thanks all.

[AndrewBird]

That cap and rotor is TOAST.

Do not re-use the valve cover gasket. It will leak. Just replace it.

[Madhatter]

hot oil runs a long way. Clean everything down with degreaser and see exactly where it's coming from if the front timing cover is filthy.

[jeffnhiscars]

I recommended that leak detection dye cause I've used it. For $6 you will save yourself a lot of fuss

[Chilezen]

Do not re-use the valve cover gasket. It will leak. Just replace it.

Aye.

hot oil runs a long way. Clean everything down with degreaser and see exactly where it's coming from if the front timing cover is filthy.

I recommended that leak detection dye cause I've used it. For $6 you will save yourself a lot of fuss

Rebuilt engine = everything's already clean. I just can't see behind the cam gear. The dye will therefore be used, thanks.

[nando]

if you're doing the cam belt just replace the cam seal. it's not very difficult. loosen the bolt before you remove the timing belt (but don't take it out of course) and torque it back down after you reinstall it.

[Chilezen]

if you're doing the cam belt just replace the cam seal. it's not very difficult.

I realize I could replace all nearby seals & gaskets, but my goal is to find the cause so that I can learn if there is a larger problem behind it. Hell, maybe the seal just wasn't installed correctly. It would be a shame to replace it in the same fashion it sits now.

If I find the source, I can say "this is where I did something wrong, now I need to look into what caused it and how to prevent it from happening again."

--

Also, the guys at O'Reilly's have never heard of a leak dye "for oil." The store only carries dyes for trans and cooling. What store should I go to and possibly what brand?

[SmokeE30]

I realize I could replace all nearby seals & gaskets, but my goal is to find the cause so that I can learn if there is a larger problem behind it. Hell, maybe the seal just wasn't installed correctly. It would be a shame to replace it in the same fashion it sits now.

If I find the source, I can say "this is where I did something wrong, now I need to look into what caused it and how to prevent it from happening again."

--

Also, the guys at O'Reilly's have never heard of a leak dye "for oil." The store only carries dyes for trans and cooling. What store should I go to and possibly what brand?

I've never seen an oil UV dye but I would bet the trans dye would work in motor oil if you were in a pinch but if you can't see what's leaking after cleaning everything off then looking around I doubt the dye will be all that much help, it's probably a matter of just moving stuff out of the way to find the leak.