Rocker shaft/ back pressure?

[1990e30coupe]

I have been researching on doing valve seals with the head on. I found that it is possible just a lot more work as removing the head would be the easier route. Against removing the head I stumbled upon a diy for removing the rocker shafts with head on making me simply want to pull it.
Is there any possibility I can leave the rocker shafts in and still get to the valve seals.
I am about ready to live with the smoke on start up after a highway drive, but have done all new seals and gaskets minus head internals.
I know it's slim to none on hearing a yes, but thought I would put my hope out here to the community!

The answer is pulling the head for sure. I want to know the limit as far as options concerning the head staying on and what I can do to it. Had the head off when motor was out to do new parts,but didn't touch the heads internals because I'm a moron.

At this point I will add my smoking is blue meaning fuel; therefore, I am curious if valve seals are my issue? Like I stated before, I am only smoking after a highway drive (20 miles), shutting it off for a little time, and then starting it up with a cloud of blue that goes away after a minute or two. I had a crashed pipe in my exaust (that a muffler guy put on) causing issues with serious back pressure. Not sure what damage this did as I ran for a couple months like this. I know I was running rich because of it. Now that the exaust is fixed I burn slightly less fuel ,but still on the heavy side. I am also getting serious carbon build on my plugs , but haven't checked now that I don't have high back pressure. I feel that my carbon issue was a mixture of oil and fuel in chambers but not sure.
I am getting serious amount of oil in the intake that is pouring back down my cold air and through my filter into the bay. Someone stated a catch can. But this amount of oil isn't normal leading me to valve seals.
Anyway, that's the start for now as I am on my 4th e30 with still not a whole lot of complete understanding. Maybe by the 5th possibly 6th I might know more as I feel I will never fully understand these cars.

I also want to apologize to the OG members for being such a noob,and asking stupid questions. I assure you I am a true e30 enthusiast, and where I lack in understanding I make up for in wanting to learn everything there is to know on these cars through reading and asking. I want to learn what works/what doesn't, what can be done/what can't be, and if I get confused I ask the professionals here at rev.
I realize a simple search can solve a lot, but I am tiered of reading threads that don't answer my question. Honestly, it is time consuming to cruise through threads searching for an answer were it only matches a word used. I'm trying to not post stupid crap that is the same thing 10 to 20 people have already asked. I am short on time these days and searching for something specific is not on the simple side requiring time.
Love this form , but cut this noob a little slack please as I am here to learn from the best.
Thanks rev!

Sent from my HTC Desire 610 using Tapatalk

[Ether-D]

I have been researching on doing valve seals with the head on. I found that it is possible just a lot more work as removing the head would be the easier route. Against removing the head I stumbled upon a diy for removing the rocker shafts with head on making me simply want to pull it.
Is there any possibility I can leave the rocker shafts in and still get to the valve seals.

I think yes, but like you said, just pull the head.

I am about ready to live with the smoke on start up after a highway drive, but have done all new seals and gaskets minus head internals.
I know it's slim to none on hearing a yes, but thought I would put my hope out here to the community!

The answer is pulling the head for sure. I want to know the limit as far as options concerning the head staying on and what I can do to it. Had the head off when motor was out to do new parts,but didn't touch the heads internals because I'm a moron.

At this point I will add my smoking is blue meaning fuel; therefore, I am curious if valve seals are my issue? Like I stated before, I am only smoking after a highway drive (20 miles), shutting it off for a little time, and then starting it up with a cloud of blue that goes away after a minute or two.

Blue smoke is generally oil burning.

I am on my 4th e30 with still not a whole lot of complete understanding. Maybe by the 5th possibly 6th I might know more as I feel I will never fully understand these cars.

I realize a simple search can solve a lot, but I am tiered of reading threads that don't answer my question. Honestly, it is time consuming to cruise through threads searching for an answer were it only matches a word used. I'm trying to not post stupid crap that is the same thing 10 to 20 people have already asked. I am short on time these days and searching for something specific is not on the simple side requiring time.
Love this form , but cut this noob a little slack please as I am here to learn from the best.
Thanks rev!

Sent from my HTC Desire 610 using Tapatalk

We are the best.

[jlevie]

Pull the head. If you have an engine hoist or a strong helper you can remove/install head with the intake and exhaust manifolds still on the head. Otherwise it is a bit too heavy for one person and you'll need to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds first.

Then strip down the head and have a shop check it for warp (and possibly surface it), check the valve guides for wear and replace if necessary, and grind the valves. Since I have the necessary tools (like a spring compressor) I strip the head down before taking it to a shop to save some money. I always check the cam, rockers, and rocker shafts for wear and replace parts as indicated. Then install new seals as a part of reassembling the head. Use a BMW OE head gasket. VR gaskets are fine for everything else, but the VR head gasket has a spotty reputation. Most of the time they work fine but sometimes times they leak. Given the work involved in changing the head gasket it makes no sense to me to go with the cheaper part. Use a new timing belt and tensioner.

Once the engine is back together, run compression tests on a cold and hot engine both dry and wet. When running the compression tests, lock the throttle wide open and disable fuel injection. Rather than futzing with the fuel or engine management system, I simply use a clip on push button starter switch and leave the ignition off. Then run a leak down test on the engine cold and hot.

The compression and leak down tests will tell if there is a problem with the cylinders or rings. It would also tell if there was a problem with the head, but in this case with the head just rebuilt it will mainly be a diagnostic for the block.

This may sound like a big project, but it really isn't. The first time it will be slow, but with experience and the right tools it gets pretty quick to R&R the head. I (and fellow racers) have done it at the track in about two hours in the dark (multiple broken rockers).

[TobyB]

Where you fail is in removing the valve spring retainers. It usually takes a sharp whack
to get them to release, and if you use the rope trick on the valves,
I can almost guarantee you'll bend at least one valve trying to get them to pop loose.
If you try the air trick, I'll bet the whack will bust the air seal and not work- or worse,
it'll get the collets out and THEN drop the valve.

It takes 2 hrs to yank the head. Jus' do it! You'll spend far longer trying not to.

t


t

[whodwho]

Did a headgasket, water pump. timing belt job in less than 2hrs at the last chump race 8^)

[ahlem]

I'd suggest doing the compression test first to have a baseline for future evaluation. Then pull the head.

[1990e30coupe]

Did a headgasket, water pump. timing belt job in less than 2hrs at the last chump race 8^)

Who was helping? Damn your good!

[1990e30coupe]

I'd suggest doing the compression test first to have a baseline for future evaluation. Then pull the head.

I'm going to take you up on this compression test first as I will perform one soon and go from there.

[1990e30coupe]

I have decided to hold out a little longer while I gather everything to completely re-do the head, but this of course is going to be a decision based on a compression test and a possible leak down test in the near future first.
I will run the way it is for now while I gather up some parts as I just ordered all new Valve springs, guides, seals, eccentrics, bolts/nuts, and collets. Next will be new valves, and shafts. Not sure on the cam yet, but when I get close I will decide.
I have time as my seals are not horribly letting oil past every where I go.
Doing a major tune up in a couple of weeks, and I am testing fuel pressure so I might do the compression then.
Thanks for the help as I know now what I am going to do at this point.