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Couple of 2.7i questions.

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    Couple of 2.7i questions.

    I have my parts needed to do the 2.7i.
    I'm starting with a 89 325i.
    First question which water pump do I use? The one for the E block? Or can a 325i waterpump work? Obviously I'm just sticking with the I radiator.
    Second I have to switch the 325i balancer over to the E block so when I put the 325i cps on it will read.
    The I starter is find to use right. The E one looks a little bigger, but I imagine it bolts to the trans the same.
    Alternators any different?

    Thanks I probably have a few other questions in the future. Just didn't really see the answers for these questions while searching. But it may be because either can be used.

    #2
    Im Quite sure you can stick with the e cooling system...at least that's my intent when I do this. As long as your radiator, WP, overflow and hoses are a set (early or late) you should be fine. Keep in mind a late cooling system also has the metal crossover pipe mounted to the timing cover and iirc that pipe will not attach to the stock early timing cover
    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
    Alice the Time Capsule
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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      #3
      I have all the I pieces. So can all the I pieces be used on the E block? Water pump, hoses, rad, timing cover then I can use the crossover pipe.
      Last edited by 89325iturbo; 09-21-2015, 12:47 PM.

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        #4
        E and I blocks are identical. The I cooling system/water pump will work with the E block as long as it's a complete set. If you're using the I flywheel you should use the I starter. Alternators are interchangeable.

        1986 327i
        transaction feedback
        DIY thing
        meh

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          #5
          ^^^ thanks appreciate it, the answer I was looking for. All my I parts are from an 89.

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            #6
            I just swapped a Super ETA block under my 91' i motor, I noticed that the i harmonic balancer needed to be swapped over, at least in my situation. Keep both balancers handy just incase.
            sigpic

            1999 528it - Daily Driver “Dad Wagon”
            1991 325is - 2.8L Budget Stroker Garage Slut
            1991 318is - Sold
            1986 325 - Sold

            Instagram - Lamoursum

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              #7
              Should I get a cam? If the engine(s) are already broken down, it would be a good time.
              After loosing some compression, not sure how the car will feel. Just looking to get a little more bump in hp/tq. The head will be apart to be shaved for flatness.
              My budget is getting tight though.
              But if I can swing it, now would be the best time.
              It would be with a sssquid chip and 19lb injectors.

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                #8
                Yeah, if you can swing it, now would be the perfect time to add a cam. Bimmerheads has some good deals on regrinds.
                -Alex

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                  #9
                  Yeah I forgot about bimmerheads, thanks for the reminder.
                  325$ for a regrind minus 100$ for a useable core.

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                    #10
                    a cam on a low compression engine just robs peter to pay for paul
                    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                      #11
                      So should I just skip the E bottom end, and stick with the I engine? To me it doesn't matter if it makes more hp then a 325i with bolt ons. But thought it could potentially make 15-20 more foot lbs of tq.
                      Say for the regular 325i engine, I go with a cam (280/274) gasket match the intake/exhaust on the head, larger injectors with corresponding chip.
                      Or I do the same mods, and use a stock 325e bottom end. Overall will it be a worse engine setup? I know the compression will be lower, but does the little increase in displacement make up for the lower compression?
                      Like I said if I could make similar hp with the same mods, that's fine. As long as there was a little bump in tq.
                      But if the lower compression takes away some ummph then I'll skip it.
                      I have both engines in my garage, just want to put the best combination using just those parts in.

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                        #12
                        don't gasket match anything and at most use a 272 with low compression and use the 1.75mm gasket instead of 2.05mm
                        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                          #13
                          So 272 cam, no porting work, bolted to stock E bottom end with thinner gasket. Standard gasket is 1.75mm correct?

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                            #14
                            Why would you need the harmonic balancer off the i?
                            As long as you have a CPS and not the double speed sensors on the bellhousing you should be fine for Motronic
                            We're in deep now boys
                            1988 325i SETA - Daily driver
                            1988 340iL - Track car
                            My M60 V8 swap thread here
                            [oo==OO==oo]

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                              #15
                              With getting a cam, should I replace the valve springs? I'm going on the milder side for a cam, so I know oem ones are fine. But my head has higher miles, is more so why I was thinking replace?

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