M20 motor build question

[see.m3.go]

I am in the process of building an m20 right now from the bottom up with new pistons, bearings, cam, arp hardware, etc. After installing the pistons into the block and torquing the ARP bolts to the proper stretch spec(stretch gauge), I found that it is pretty hard to turn over the motor with a ratchet.

The motor has been sitting in the garage for maybe 3 weeks after the pistons were installed, due to my busy schedule, could that possibly be why there is a good amount of resistance when trying to turn over the motor? At times it almost feels like at first it will be hard to get moving and then will spin a bit more freely once its moving. This is without the head on the motor.

Another thing to note- I reused the stock m20b25 135mm rods and numbered them so that they would stay in the same cylinder when going back together. They were not all facing the same direction when I installed the pistons, but after researching, the rods are symmetrical, and this shouldn't matter, as long as the caps were installed in the correct orientation.

Would like some insight as to whether or not this would be problematic before continuing to reassemble the motor.

Thanks in advance!

[SkiFree]

Rings gaps on new rings? checked roundness of bores? Use assembly lube? What machine work was done?

There are more questions, but this is a good start.

[ttrousdell]

ARP studs for the main caps as well? When I built my engine had the mains line honed. The ARP studs clamp the caps down differently and could effect tolerance. Did you check to see if the connecting rods were out of round with the studs torqued? Did you check clearance between bearings and crank? Ring gaps good?

[see.m3.go]

Rings gaps on new rings? checked roundness of bores? Use assembly lube? What machine work was done?

There are more questions, but this is a good start.

Ring gaps were good, don't remember the spec off the top of my head, but the machine shop wanted me to call them once I measured it and they said it was on point. I did not check for roundness of bores, but I trust this machine shop and have had plenty of work done by them before. I used assembly lube quite liberally and lightly oiled the cylinder walls before installing the pistons.
The block was bored .050 over, and they installed my rings on the pistons and new wrist pin bearings in the rods.

[see.m3.go]

ARP studs for the main caps as well? When I built my engine had the mains line honed. The ARP studs clamp the caps down differently and could effect tolerance. Did you check to see if the connecting rods were out of round with the studs torqued? Did you check clearance between bearings and crank? Ring gaps good?

Yes, all ARP hardware. Did not have the mains line honed, but the crank spun perfectly after all the main bearings were torqued down. I also did not check the rods for roundness, but the machine shop had them for a week and a half-ish, and I assume they might have? Didn't check clearance between bearings and crank, since I had the crank polished and balanced and measured at the machine shop as well, and it was in very good condition to be used with stock bearings.