Mobile One 0W - 40 in M44 Winter

[packratbimmer]

Just a heads up and looking for opinions about winter oil. First off, I'm talking about a 318ti M44 so not sure if this issue pertains to the M42 or not.

I have been having extremely rough starts/warm ups when the temperatures are below 10 degrees for any length of time while using Mobile One 0W-40. No power until the car gets warm. Runs great when warm.

I just threw in 5W-20 (Castrol GTX - and just short term) as an experiment and the car started as normal this morning.

I am pretty sure that the lifters were not able to handle the Mobile One 0W-40 and that the car was running on low compression on some/all cylinders while using the Mobile One 0W-40 until the oil warmed up. The problem only exists during the winter and the car throws no codes until cold weather sets in, then a misfire code.

Question 1: Any other experiences with Mobile One 0W-40 in cold climates? Relating to lifters?

Question 2: I am reading about the use of VW lifters in the M44 and I am wondering if anyone has a good or bad experience with those.

Cheers!!!

[bmwman91]

The owner's manual should have a table displaying permitted oil weights versus temperature, so I would start by referring to that.

[e30sh]

I'm no oil expert but 0W (winter) should be thinner than 5W @ start up assuming they are measured @ the same temp. The later # is measured @ 210 deg F.

My M42 doesn't clatter on startup if I drive it everyday. If it sits a bit, it does for a few secs.

Good luck

[packratbimmer]

I have done a lot of reading on this and decided to try the Mobile One. Their site recommended the 0W-40 year round. I am not sure if that would work if my lifters were perfect. Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone who had the same problem.

I am going to run the 5W-20 for a few days since it is sub freezing with lows in the singles this week. After that, Imam going to see how it acts on 5W-30 and use it in the winter.

[TobyB]

Hmm, that's odd.

BUT: both M42's and an M54 don't like frequent cold restarts with
Mobil1 0-40. The symptom is that, in the winter, if you start the car, move it 15 feet, and
repeat once or twice, it will lose compression. At first, I too thought it was valve- lifter
related, BUT the lifters can't completely drop a valve in an M42, it just opens less. And clatters.
But the cars were quiet. After a bit of asking around, it seems to be cylinder washdown.

The engine has to be overfuelled a bit when cold, and if the oil's not circulated enough
to re- oil the walls, the rings lose seal enough to prevent the car from starting. A good
crank with the throttle down (anti- flood mode) starts the car, and on all 3, a short trip around
the block is enough to prevent it from happening.

The common element's the 0-40, and the E46 forum agrees- people who use it have
the problem, other weights and brands don't seem to do it as much.

What happens to me,
t

[DER E30]

My M42 doesn't clatter on startup if I drive it everyday. If it sits a bit, it does for a few secs.

Mine clatters randomly, like doesn't seem to matter how long it sits, or the temperature, but if the motor has sat longer than 3-4 hrs it may clatter, may not, its weird I hate it when it clatters, been doing it since I got it like 22k miles ago

Mobile 1 15-50 oil

Gonna tear the bloody thing apart and do the late model timing case swap and m50 lifters once I get another daily ugh, hoping it fixes it

[packratbimmer]

The last time I had the problem it would barely move and I could not shift into second on level. So far the car acts completely normal with the 5W-20. I am waiting for a sub-zero night to see what happens next.

Right now I am in the process of deciding what 0W-30 or 5W-30 I want to run the rest of the winter.

[AndrewBird]

Oil will not cause a noticeable difference in power. At least, no what you are describing. Something else is going on. Possibly a bad temp sensor? Coolant mixture ok for those temps? If the coolant was starting to freeze, that would put a lot of extra strain on the water pump.

[packratbimmer]

There are a few write-ups on the lifter issue. If I can find them, I can post them if there are any interested parties. It has been too warm in Maine this week to know much. Waiting for zero - five temps. 40+ degrees in late January - crazy!!!

[bmwman91]

If you are having lifter tick/pump-up issues, it is almost assuredly due to varnish and gunk buildup. You can improve things a little by substituting a quart of oil with an additive (like Rislone which I used for many years with some success in terms of varnish removal). Ultimately, gunked up lifters usually need to be removed and manually cleaned, but additives can help. You might try something like this:
1) Run 4 quarts of your preferred oil + 1 quart of Rislone. Change after 1000 miles (chances are that this will be some NASTY looking oil). Go easy on it and maybe stay under 4000RPM.
2) Use the same mix as above and change after 5000 miles. Drive it however however you want.
3) Return to using 5 quarts of your preferred oil.

Then just alternate 2 and 3 every other change.


As noted above, you may also be having other issues.

[packratbimmer]

Thanks for the tip about the Rislone - I have not heard of that product before.

No tick ever and no issues unless the temp is below 10. No issues so far below 10 with 5W-20. The car is a garage queen with 80K on it and runs perfectly until the temps go super cold. The only time it ever throws a code is after the cold start problem, then I get a misfire code. I am definitely open to doing a flush but I just think Mobile One 0W-40 is not a good choice for the M44 in cold climates, especially when there are other stories out there about that oil. Letting the car sit this week because the temps are too warm for the 5W-20. We'll see what happens when they dip again. Pretty sure the lifters are staying pumped up with molasses when it is toward 0 F.

I wish I felt up to a compression check when the temperature is 15 degrees below zero.

[DER E30]

That's a good call on the Rislone stuff, I've never heard of it. Is it possible to dump some in at the end of the oil life and run it for 100 miles or something and change the oil?

[bmwman91]

Yeah you could probably do that with the Rislone too. It does lower the viscosity and isn't as good of a lubricant as actual oil, so you might want to be careful adding it to old oil since old oil has probably experienced some viscosity breakdown.

[DER E30]

That's a good point, I was just wondering if I could put a quart or something in then drive to school and back to get it nice and hot, then oil change right after.

[5Toes]

honestly cleaning the lifters on a m42 is super easy. Id go about it like this:

remove valve cover
lock engine at TDC
remove timing chain tensioner
zip-tie timing chain to cam sprockets and remove sprockets
remove camshafts by turning each bolt half turn at a time in a star pattern, just like headbolts. exercise caution here, because atleast one valve will be compressed by them and half a turn preside may be too much - the slower and the more controlled the better
remove lifter trays with lifters in them (if you are quick enough and able to use all 10 digits you can flip each tray upside down so they don't fall out)
soak all the lifters in ATF overnight or as long as you want

now a lot of people to say to keep each lifter with its respective valve but honestly all of mine looked great and had little wear, so what difference is it really going to make on a street car?

to get the gunk out of the lifters spray carb cleaner or some kind of solvent in each lifter's little air hole and then shake them rapidly to "pump" them up and get the atf/gunk/cleaner out.

it would be a good idea to soak them in clean oil befire re-install too, otherwise the car will have very bad lifter tick for a few minutes until they "pump up"

reinstall and make sure the cams are timed correct. E cam is for intake, A is for exhaust. the cam tools I got mine used once off eBay for $45, original price was like $110 new so the deals are out there.