vaughnbannister's Turbo S50 Build
Okay so here it goes, I'm finally making a build thread (not even sure if its in the right place
) after so many people have asked me for one in the past. I have swapped in a s50b30 about 2 years ago and never did a thread on it, so ill give just a basic one of that.
The s50 was the first major thing i did to my car and took me about 3 months total to do it all by myself, in my garage with just a jack lol. During this i shaved the bay, tucked the main harness in the fender, painted the bay, did all the gaskets on the engine (except rear main seal which i always had that feeling in the back of my mind hoping it didn't fail...) out of everything i did i forgot to do one thing.... the damn oil pump nut(remember this
)........
So just to catch up to where i am now, here are some pictures...
The day i got the engine:
On the stand:
It was so clean.....:
Before:
Engine out before:
Bay shaved and painted:
Engine in and wired:
All done:
this was just a summary of what i did when swapping, so i left out all the parts that i put on the engine like clutch, water pump, thermo, gaskets ect. along with the wiring, because that took a while lol...
so after running the car with the stock motor for about 2 years, beating e46 m3's and other cars that you shouldn't be able too, i got an offer that i couldn't refuse....
VF V3 supercharger on a RMS Stage 2 kit. After cooler, front mount, aux water pump, injectors. on 11 psi it was roughly around 400 wheel.
Installed:
I ran the supercharger for a couple months...
remember the two things i didn't do when swapping? Well the rear main seal ended up never leaking... but the oil pump nut buck its self out right when i was racing, in Mexico of course.., one of my friends modded Evo 8. At the top of 3rd i guess the nut back its self off barely so it basically locked my motor up which would have been fine if i didn't force it in to 4th. Right when i lifted my clutch the wheels locked up sending me sideways at 100+, i got it corrected but by 1. the white smoke pouring out the back 2. the most awful sound of metal being thrown around in the engine bay and 3. the motor was completely seized now and i rolled to the shoulder in neutral. 4. the oil/coolant mix pouring out from under the car...
When i got the car home and started looking around i noticed a couple things.
1. there were 4 holes in my block (1 either side of the block, 2 IN THE FREAKING E34 OIL PAN UGHHHH)
2. looking through the holes i saw on the rods were pretty bent.
After pulling the motor and tearing it apart then i found out some more...
3. cylinder 5 was no longer there
4. cylinder 4 was scarred by the valves.
5. cylinder 3 was destroyed.
5. 19 out of 24 valves were either bent or broken
6. the cylinder wall on 5 was gone
All because the one thing i didn't do.... you can see the gap between the nut and the sprocket.
so now here we are, all caught up.. i wish i had started this a lot earlier but i don't want to go through everything I've done since now. and this is only a motor thread...
i had picked up a new s50 while i was pulling the old one to and i decided to go turbo, but i never want to hear that awful sound again so i have decided to fully build this motor.
so the first part is to check what my brother picked up for me. ( I was out of town and was to good of a deal to wait until i was back in town)
first i saw if the motor even turned over, which it did with ease.
Then i took the valve cover off to see if it was all gunked up
Not as good as the first one, but that'll all be fixed!
Time to order some parts!
-Supertech Valves
Inconel Exhaust valves
Black Nitride Intake valves
Double valve springs
Misc hardware
-Clutch, Flywheel and Pressure Plate
M5 8.5lb Light Weight Flywheel
Performance Segmented Kevlar Clutch
UUC Pressure plate
Misc hardware
-Rods
Molnar Technologies Lightweight Forged Connecting Rods
-Pistons
Wiseco Forged Pistons/ 8.5-1 comp ratio (high boost)
-Head Gasket
Cometic Multi Layered Steel/ .070 OEM thickness
-Turbo
Garrett GT3582R
-Waste Gate
44M Tial with a 1 bar spring (14ish PSI) but I'm thinking getting an even lower one for the motor break in?
-ARP 2000 Headstuds
-Cams
~i have not decided in cams yet, not sure what to get lol~
As of now, this is all the parts that i have, the motor has been sent off to the engine builder and is being taken apart and magic is being worked.
more updates (and edits, like making the pictures bigger SORRY) will be coming as soon as there is stuff to report!
) after so many people have asked me for one in the past. I have swapped in a s50b30 about 2 years ago and never did a thread on it, so ill give just a basic one of that.The s50 was the first major thing i did to my car and took me about 3 months total to do it all by myself, in my garage with just a jack lol. During this i shaved the bay, tucked the main harness in the fender, painted the bay, did all the gaskets on the engine (except rear main seal which i always had that feeling in the back of my mind hoping it didn't fail...) out of everything i did i forgot to do one thing.... the damn oil pump nut(remember this
)........So just to catch up to where i am now, here are some pictures...
The day i got the engine:
On the stand:
It was so clean.....:
Before:
Engine out before:
Bay shaved and painted:
Engine in and wired:
All done:
this was just a summary of what i did when swapping, so i left out all the parts that i put on the engine like clutch, water pump, thermo, gaskets ect. along with the wiring, because that took a while lol...
so after running the car with the stock motor for about 2 years, beating e46 m3's and other cars that you shouldn't be able too, i got an offer that i couldn't refuse....
VF V3 supercharger on a RMS Stage 2 kit. After cooler, front mount, aux water pump, injectors. on 11 psi it was roughly around 400 wheel.
Installed:
I ran the supercharger for a couple months...
remember the two things i didn't do when swapping? Well the rear main seal ended up never leaking... but the oil pump nut buck its self out right when i was racing, in Mexico of course.., one of my friends modded Evo 8. At the top of 3rd i guess the nut back its self off barely so it basically locked my motor up which would have been fine if i didn't force it in to 4th. Right when i lifted my clutch the wheels locked up sending me sideways at 100+, i got it corrected but by 1. the white smoke pouring out the back 2. the most awful sound of metal being thrown around in the engine bay and 3. the motor was completely seized now and i rolled to the shoulder in neutral. 4. the oil/coolant mix pouring out from under the car...
When i got the car home and started looking around i noticed a couple things.
1. there were 4 holes in my block (1 either side of the block, 2 IN THE FREAKING E34 OIL PAN UGHHHH)
2. looking through the holes i saw on the rods were pretty bent.
After pulling the motor and tearing it apart then i found out some more...
3. cylinder 5 was no longer there
4. cylinder 4 was scarred by the valves.
5. cylinder 3 was destroyed.
5. 19 out of 24 valves were either bent or broken
6. the cylinder wall on 5 was gone
All because the one thing i didn't do.... you can see the gap between the nut and the sprocket.
so now here we are, all caught up.. i wish i had started this a lot earlier but i don't want to go through everything I've done since now. and this is only a motor thread...
i had picked up a new s50 while i was pulling the old one to and i decided to go turbo, but i never want to hear that awful sound again so i have decided to fully build this motor.
so the first part is to check what my brother picked up for me. ( I was out of town and was to good of a deal to wait until i was back in town)
first i saw if the motor even turned over, which it did with ease.
Then i took the valve cover off to see if it was all gunked up
Not as good as the first one, but that'll all be fixed!
Time to order some parts!
-Supertech Valves
Inconel Exhaust valves
Black Nitride Intake valves
Double valve springs
Misc hardware
-Clutch, Flywheel and Pressure Plate
M5 8.5lb Light Weight Flywheel
Performance Segmented Kevlar Clutch
UUC Pressure plate
Misc hardware
-Rods
Molnar Technologies Lightweight Forged Connecting Rods
-Pistons
Wiseco Forged Pistons/ 8.5-1 comp ratio (high boost)
-Head Gasket
Cometic Multi Layered Steel/ .070 OEM thickness
-Turbo
Garrett GT3582R
-Waste Gate
44M Tial with a 1 bar spring (14ish PSI) but I'm thinking getting an even lower one for the motor break in?
-ARP 2000 Headstuds
-Cams
~i have not decided in cams yet, not sure what to get lol~
As of now, this is all the parts that i have, the motor has been sent off to the engine builder and is being taken apart and magic is being worked.
more updates (and edits, like making the pictures bigger SORRY) will be coming as soon as there is stuff to report!
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