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m20b27 runs perfect but wont start

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    #1

    m20b27 runs perfect but wont start

    recently got myself a 325e and its given me no mechanical issues until now.

    adjusted the valves to spec yesterday and replaced the accessory belts, car runs perfect.

    today i replaced all the calipers, pads, and rotors. only opened the hood to add brake fluid. car starts fine.

    drove 20 minutes, turned it off, went to start it again and it just cranks and doesn't start.

    my friend pushed the car and i popped the clutch because i don't have towing and she fired right up and continued running without misfire. which leaves me to assume i'm not having any fuel delivery or spark issues.

    i have no idea where to start...
    #projectfrranken30
    Tags: None
    #2
    Well...if you managed to bump start it and it ran, it's definitely not a fuel problem. It's probably your starter.
    1985 325e Sedan, 1986 325e Sedan, 2006 BMW X5, 2012 M3 Sedan, 2013 135is, 2017 M3 Sedan ZCP Competition

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      #3
      "...it just cranks and doesn't start"... Is not a starter problem
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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        #4
        It's not the starter or CPS. The only other thing that would cause a non-start is an incorrect mixture of fuel and air. Do a smoke test to see if you have any vacuum leaks.

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          #5
          So, when you turn the key it will just crank and not turn over, but if you pop the clutch it will start? wtf.

          Anyways, you just got to go through the basics,

          Check fuel
          Then check for spark.
          Then check the shit that makes it spark and what sends it fuel.
          Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP

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            #6
            Dang, that is weird.
            While trying to start, is there a noticeable fuel smell? How does it idle?

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              #7
              Sooo i got some daylight time now. First thought was check fuel delivery. Took the hose of the fpr and not even a drip.turn d the key to crank the motor and nothing. Guess I found my trail to follow. Still find it strange how the car stays running. Idle is nice and smooth with a slight hiccup every now and then
              #projectfrranken30

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                #8
                I wonder if the fuel pump is having issues, and that it's not able to generate enough pressure to push past the FPR. Or the FPR is clogged. Since you're obviously getting fuel.

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                  #9
                  Check or swap your engine speed sensor. That is the forward sensor of the 2 sensor in the bell housing of the tranny. My dads 87 325es had this problem for months because it was just kicking my ass trying to figure it out. The dam car would not start with the starter, but would push start and run great every time! When the car would not start when cranking I always heard an odd clicking sound. The clicking I later found out was the main relay turning on and off like it was loosing it dam mind. The ECU uses the engine speed sensor to recognize a rotating engine and turn on the main relay. I swap engine speed sensors and the car starts everytime.

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                    #10
                    The ECU uses the engine speed sensor to recognize a rotating engine and turn on the fuel pump relay
                    just crank and not catch,
                    fixed that for ya.

                    t
                    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                      #11
                      update in case anyone has this issue in the future. after further investigating the fuel issue and clarifying it was functioning properly after all, next step was spark.

                      nothing. tested the coil and had 12v with ignition on. just as a guess i tested resistance on the crank position sensor, got nothing. replaced it, been driving all day.
                      #projectfrranken30

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Well since Eta's kinda has two CPS. Was it the engine speed sensor (forward sensor in the bell housing) or the engine reference sensor (rear sensor in the bell housing)?

                        Comment

                          #13
                          not the one that reads the flywheel teeth (forward i believe?). so im assuming that would mean the rearward sensor was for the crank
                          #projectfrranken30

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