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    Diff noise?

    So first off I just installed new poly 95A diff, rtab, cab, and subframe bushings. I know obviously the diff is going to make more noise with a stiffer bushing. The gear whine is fine I know that's normal. My question is it seems to have developed a clunk when stopping and taking off. It might have been there before and is just now noticeable. It almost sounds like something is rolling around in the trunk but I checked that.

    I also have a groaning coming from I think the rear. When I unload the right side suspension (by making an abrupt right turn) it goes away so i thought it was a wheel bearing . I have already replaced all 4 since I got the car and I also just replaced the rear right again and the sound remains.

    My question is are the two sounds related? Is it a tired diff? Something in the driveline? I'll add that I grabbed the driveline where it connect to the diff and there is definatelty what seems to me like a lot of play there. Also when it happens you can feel in the car like something is shiftin sometimes.

    Any help would be awesome thanks guys

    #2
    The clunk is most likely to be from excessive wear between the pinion and ring gear in the diff, which will also cause the whine.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      So I did some research and I found out I might have put my subframe bushings in upside down. I got the poly ones from garagistic and it for some reason didn't have any install instructions. I'm going to be switching them over tomorow before I break something. Dumb thing on my part.

      Do you guys think that would be causing the clunking? I have the thick side of the bushing on the bottom

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        #4
        Originally posted by CalE30 View Post
        So I did some research and I found out I might have put my subframe bushings in upside down. I got the poly ones from garagistic and it for some reason didn't have any install instructions. I'm going to be switching them over tomorow before I break something. Dumb thing on my part.

        Do you guys think that would be causing the clunking? I have the thick side of the bushing on the bottom
        Correct- thicker side on the Garagistic polly bushings go on top. Also, don't torque down the subframe bushings until the weight of the car is on the ground. Otherwise the subframe might be a little cock-eyed.
        555Garage - Kingston, PA

        '13 BMW e70 X5 35d
        '95 BMW e34 525i
        '92 BMW e30 325i S52 Vert (Quade the Vert)
        '92 Range Rover Classic
        '90 Range Rover Classic
        '89 BMW e30 325i Coupe (The DIRTY30)
        '81 VW MK1 Rabbit Caddy Diesel
        '76 Honda CB550K Cafe/Brat
        '67 Pontiac LeMans
        '24 Model T Depot Hack
        ....And a bunch of Motobecane, Puch, Garelli, Batavus and Honda 49cc-78cc Mopeds...

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          #5
          Thanks for some concrete advice man. I couldn't find any specifics anywhere. I'll be switching those around tonight hopefully it fixed my problem. Is there any special things I should have done for the trailing arm bushings?

          Comment


            #6
            There is a thicker side to them too, thicker side on the OUTSIDE of the arms. So per arm, have thicker side towards the subframe bushing and the other towards the diff (for both arms)

            Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
            555Garage - Kingston, PA

            '13 BMW e70 X5 35d
            '95 BMW e34 525i
            '92 BMW e30 325i S52 Vert (Quade the Vert)
            '92 Range Rover Classic
            '90 Range Rover Classic
            '89 BMW e30 325i Coupe (The DIRTY30)
            '81 VW MK1 Rabbit Caddy Diesel
            '76 Honda CB550K Cafe/Brat
            '67 Pontiac LeMans
            '24 Model T Depot Hack
            ....And a bunch of Motobecane, Puch, Garelli, Batavus and Honda 49cc-78cc Mopeds...

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks again man. I will post results when I get them fixed. Did the guys at garagistic just forget to put any install paperwork in the box or are you expected to know how they go in. It doesn't seem super obvious one way or the other

              Comment


                #8
                -Update-

                Alright so I went under there and I realized I did actually have the bushings oriented the right direction. I thought maybe they weren't seated right so I took the bolts out and separated the subframe bushings from the body. I then made sure the metal rods slid into the right place. Everything seems to be correct down there bushing wise. I still have the clunk however.... I'm going to lean back towards the diff or drive line. I'm assuming since I have the stiffer bushings in it's just much more noticeable than it was before. Is there a way to repair the diff or is it pretty much just get a new one. Also the car only has 140kish on the odo(The gears were out for only about a week or 2). Should my diff be showing this much signs of play in it? I know these cars are good for a lot of miles.

                Thanks again for all the help guys.

                Comment


                  #9
                  How are your axles?
                  (OO=[][]=OO) For Life

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                    #10
                    The half shafts? Honestly they probably could be replaced the boots don't look like they are in the best shape. Could that be the source of my groaning noise possibly?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by CalE30 View Post
                      The half shafts? Honestly they probably could be replaced the boots don't look like they are in the best shape. Could that be the source of my groaning noise possibly?
                      Yeah the half shafts, depends if you removed them when you did the subframe. Did you drop the diff too? I mean, you can swap out all the bushings and not remove the diff.

                      When you unbolted the driveshaft from the diff, did you remove the driveshaft or move the CSB (center support bracket) in the meantime? Did you replace the diff mount also? That'll increase the rough sound a bit, but nothing super noticeable.

                      I just went through this rodeo a few weeks ago, I didn't have enough room to unbolt the driveshaft from the diff without dropping the driveshaft (It isn't always the case, I know years ago on my other e30 I didn't have to drop the driveshaft)
                      555Garage - Kingston, PA

                      '13 BMW e70 X5 35d
                      '95 BMW e34 525i
                      '92 BMW e30 325i S52 Vert (Quade the Vert)
                      '92 Range Rover Classic
                      '90 Range Rover Classic
                      '89 BMW e30 325i Coupe (The DIRTY30)
                      '81 VW MK1 Rabbit Caddy Diesel
                      '76 Honda CB550K Cafe/Brat
                      '67 Pontiac LeMans
                      '24 Model T Depot Hack
                      ....And a bunch of Motobecane, Puch, Garelli, Batavus and Honda 49cc-78cc Mopeds...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I dropped the whole subframe assembly since the subframe bushings were such a pain to remove. I did not have to pull down the drive shaft to do this though. Also I did pull my half shaft on the passenger side to replace a wheel bearing that I thought might be bad but it wasn't. I was thinking maybe it could be my rear shock mounts? I have no idea how old they are. The previous owner put bilstien struts and eibach springs in but I have no clue when and what else they replaced. The behavior of the sound seems to not be driveline related because it doesn't always happen on takeoff that I've noticed. Also when I'm taking off it will sometimes happen after I've let out the clutch and I'm already moving. If feels more like it happens when the car shifts weight then when I put the power down.

                        Anyone know the symptoms of bad shock mounts?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by CalE30 View Post
                          I dropped the whole subframe assembly since the subframe bushings were such a pain to remove. I did not have to pull down the drive shaft to do this though. Also I did pull my half shaft on the passenger side to replace a wheel bearing that I thought might be bad but it wasn't. I was thinking maybe it could be my rear shock mounts? I have no idea how old they are. The previous owner put bilstien struts and eibach springs in but I have no clue when and what else they replaced. The behavior of the sound seems to not be driveline related because it doesn't always happen on takeoff that I've noticed. Also when I'm taking off it will sometimes happen after I've let out the clutch and I'm already moving. If feels more like it happens when the car shifts weight then when I put the power down.

                          Anyone know the symptoms of bad shock mounts?
                          easy to inspect them and very easy / inexpensive to replace them with something better like a billet GC mount or whatever your preference

                          a bad rear strut mount will lead to damage of the sheet metal tower so it would not hurt you to just remove and inspect/clean the area; its just 2x 13mm bolts @ top anyways and one 18 or 19mm on the bottom.

                          Good time to clean and anti-sieze all the hardware if you do not know when it was last apart.
                          OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                          Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                          Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Alright thanks I'll have to check those out today. I'm replacing one of the oil cooler lines one has a slow leak. Thanks again for the help guys!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              So I checked the shock mounts they seem pretty fresh. They must have been replaced when whoever put the new struts and springs in. I think I have finally found the reason for all that noise and it's something really stupid. When it first started happebing I had some things in my trunk so I thought maybe those were sliding around. I took everything out so I could eliminate that. It didn't fit it but when I was checking out the shock mounts I took the jack and wheel chock out. Noticed the wheel chock was lose and I think it was sliding around in its little metal compartment. Put it back together and the noise is gone. So for so good but I have only put maybe 20 miles on it so fingers crossed. Stupid issue had me chasing a lot of things but hopefully it's fixed now.

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