Central Locking/Deadlock problems

[E30 Kerp]

I've got a bit of an odd one... I've got an 86 2 door 325e and both doors, boot and fuel door have locked themselves and I can't for the life of me unlock them.

If I put the key in the door it'll bend instead of unlocking. However I can unlock the passenger door by inserting the key and trying to unlock it and lifting the handle at a certain spot. The door will open but it isn't really unlocked if that makes sense. From inside the car I can't pull up the locks either. A couple weeks ago the central locking broke and would only lock all the doors from inside the drivers door and not from the lock outside.

Also just got some bad rain and the drivers foot well is sopping wet. I've pulled out the speaker and got to the clcu out and it's buggered. So my question really is, without the clcu is there anyway to unlock the doors, fuel door and boot.. The car drives and the rest of the electronics work.

This is undoubtedly naive but is there anyway I could connect some wires to at least unlock the fuel door?
Any insight into how I could sort this out would be beyond great.

[youngmineeh]

I recently had (still fighting) this problem. Here's a link to my thread

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=403043

I'm guessing you were lucky like me to gain access to the inside of the car. As a temporary solution, you can remove the door cards (it's doable with the seats removed even if the door is closed) and unbolt the locking actuator from the door. This will allow you to pull up the door locks and have it somewhat functional temporarily. You could probably do this with the trunk lock actuator and the fuel lid, but this wasn't a problem that I had to go through since my car came without them.

Here's my strategy of tackling my problem:

1. I replaced the driver side actuator thinking that unlocking the car from the driver side lock will send a signal to the CLCU to undo the double-lock feature. This made the driver side lock work perfectly, but didn't undo the deadlock on the passenger side.

2. I tried jumping pins on the CLCU as stated at the end of this diagram The newly replaced driver side actuator responded to these tests, but the passenger side still didn't budge.

3. I've ordered a used working CLCU, and I'm hoping that this will solve the problem. If this doesn't work, it's safe to say that the passenger side actuator has seized and needs to be replaced.

We've had a very wet winter in California this year. When I took the door cards off the driver's side, I've realized that it was leaking water slowly from the window seal. Not much in the footwell, but I'm thinking moisture had some effect on this whole locking fiasco. I hope this was of some help, and I'll update you on my progress.

[reelizmpro]

All doors and trunk should be able to unlock mechanically with the master key regardless of the Central locking. Go to the trunk, unlock it, pull the passenger side trim back, grab the lock rod for the gas door and pull it back to unlock. You can pull the door cards from inside the car and disconnect the actuator rods if you have to get the door unlocked.

[E30 Kerp]

@reelizmpro Unfortunately the master key won't open the boot either and given my model came without a ski pass I am in a bit of a situation. Although I can get the drivers door and passenger door unlocked I cannot gain access to the boot to get to the fuel actuator.

Is there anyway I can send power to the trunk or fuel door actuators to tell them to reverse their position without the clcu

[reelizmpro]

Yes, you can momentarily send power to the driver or passenger door actuator's harness connector. It should unlock the trunk actuator and fuel door actuator as well provided they work.