E46 ZHP steering rack - parts questions

[Mook613]

I picked up a nice E46 ZHP rack (the 712 yellow tag) that I plan on putting into my car. Came out of an 05' with only 120,000km and looks to be in fantastic shape so I will not be rebuilding before install.

Went to pick up the rack and it came with some hard lines and the E46 steering knuckle attached :).

Questions:
1) Can I use the E46 steering knuckle or will I need to modify the E30 with the spacer kit? (my thoughts are that the E46 is designed for the height of the rack, but will it fit the splines of the E30 steering shaft?)

2) What other parts should I be buying in anticipation of the install?
My list so far is:
- PS reservoir (for the new filter)
- Low-pressure hose (mine sweat a lot)
- Crush washers for banjo bolts (cheap insurance)
- E36 outer tie-rods (needed for the install per question 3)

Optional parts that I may buy:
- New flex disc (the E46 donor rack has a nice guibo but not sure if hole spacing is the same and whether can be used).
- spacer kit (only if I can't use the E46 knuckle)
- E46 inner tie-rods (see next question)

3) I know that I need E46 inner rods for the venting and E36 outers for sizing (E30 is wrong threading and E46 would be too long). Is it worth spending the money on new inners, or do they last long enough that I only need to buy the E36 outer rods?

4) Anything I am missing?

[Mook613]

Anybody have any insight on this one?

[noahsense]

Plenty of threads about this. It's exactly the same as any e36 or e46 rack swap.

[Mook613]

Plenty of threads about this. It's exactly the same as any e36 or e46 rack swap.

I have read many threads on the swap, but the questions I have are for the information that I was unable to find in those threads.

There is also not much on the E46 ZHP swap and that is why I asked about the knuckle. I know that you can make an E36/E30 hybrid (not sure what the advantage is), but I am not sure if there is any use for the E46 knuckle that came on my used rack.

[noahsense]

Q1
-By knuckle, I assume you mean swivel joint assembly? Sounds like you have a non-airbag car. Using an e46 steering joints is somewhat complicated since you actually need to combine two. Alternatively, you can buy a pre-made joint from Garagastic.
-The best option is to modify your e30 rag joint. You can get parts kits from a few places. Garagastic's kit is inexpensive and a good choice. Zionsville has an expensive kit but it does include a new rubber guibo and the needed hardware to install that.

Q2
-If you have everything out, you might as well replace any service items that might be near the end of their life. You're draining the system anyway.
-crush washers can only be used once (if you go with a reman rack, they come with two of the washers that you'll need.
-If your e36 tie-rods look ok, might as well keep them. They're easy to replace if they're bad.

Q3
-If you aren't rebuilding the steering rack, you might as well just keep your old inners as long as they look ok. Honestly, the best choice might be to use your rack as a core exchange and get a remanufactured rack from Rack Doctor.

Q4.
-You need to remove the inner tie-rods to install the rack. You'll need replacement cv boot clamps and a cv boot crimp tool. Boots can be reused if they look ok but if they look buldged or torn, get the whole rack remanufactured. Do the job once, not twice.
-Jacking the engine is easy - avoid bending the rack tabs. Now is a good time to replace motor mounts if they look worn. Factory rubber is always a good option.

[Mook613]

Q1
-By knuckle, I assume you mean swivel joint assembly? Sounds like you have a non-airbag car. Using an e46 steering joints is somewhat complicated since you actually need to combine two. Alternatively, you can buy a pre-made joint from Garagastic.
-The best option is to modify your e30 rag joint. You can get parts kits from a few places. Garagastic's kit is inexpensive and a good choice. Zionsville has an expensive kit but it does include a new rubber guibo and the needed hardware to install that.

Q2
-If you have everything out, you might as well replace any service items that might be near the end of their life. You're draining the system anyway.
-crush washers can only be use once (if you go with a reman rack, they come with two of the washers that you'll need.
-If your e36 tie-rods look ok, might as well keep them. They're easy to replace if they're bad.

Q3
-If you aren't rebuilding the steering rack, you might as well just keep your old inners as long as they look ok. Honestly, the best choice might be to use your rack as a core exchange and get a remanufactured rack from Rack Doctor.

Q4.
-You need to remove the inner tie-rods to install the rack. You'll need replacement cv boot clamps and a cv boot crimp tool. Boots can be reused if they look ok but if they look buldged or torn, get the whole rack remanufactured. Do the job once, not twice.
-Jacking the engine is easy - avoid bending the rack tabs. Now is a good time to replace motor mounts if they look worn. Factory rubber is always a good option.

Thank you!

Q1 - Will buy the kit with the bolts and spacers and modify the E30 coupler.

Q2:
- Crush washer point noted, and I will order the ones needed.
- E36 outers have to be ordered. The donor rack has all E46 and my current E30 rack has all E30.
- What other service items are there?

Q3:
- Noted, but the donor rack came from a very low mileage and well cared for car. It looks to be in near perfect shape, including the boots.

Q4:
- Boots are good and will be re-used.
- Why do I need to remove the inners for the install? Planned to leave the inners on the rack when putting it in and then doing an alignment using string method to get me to the alignment shop afterwards.
- Not bending the tabs requires dropping the entire subframe. Not sure that I plan on doing this as it would require an engine hoist or lifting the engine from the pan, neither of which is an option for me.

[noahsense]

Q2:
- What other service items are there?

-Also worth checking the PS pump for leaks or whining.
-PS Belt for wear or old age.

Q4:
- Why do I need to remove the inners for the install?

Not sufficient clearance - It's either the control arms or subframe that get in way.

- Not bending the tabs requires dropping the entire subframe. Not sure that I plan on doing this as it would require an engine hoist or lifting the engine from the pan, neither of which is an option for me.

No need to remove subframe to lift engine. you just need to place your jack under the engine, use a piece of wood between jack and oil pan. Raise jack until just contacting engine. Losen nuts off engine mounts and slowly lift a little at a time. Be sure that you've positioned your jack so that you can install rack. You don't need much clearance at all.

You should be able to slide rack in without being under engine.

[Mook613]

No need to remove subframe to lift engine. you just need to place your jack under the engine, use a piece of wood between jack and oil pan. Raise jack until just contacting engine. Losen nuts off engine mounts and slowly lift a little at a time. Be sure that you've positioned your jack so that you can install rack. You don't need much clearance at all.

You should be able to slide rack in without being under engine.

Will for sure consider going about it this way.

My car shakes a bit at idle, so replacing the mounts is a good idea.

Pump and belts can be replaced another time if needed.

I know that ideally I would get a rebuilt rack from RackDoctor (and I looked into this), but the price to have them shipped up to Canada is very high. That and the US dollar exchange doesn't help.

Is there a thread on replacing the steering guibo? I can't seem to find anything on replacing it with an OEM and only on using poly discs that come with hardware.

Thanks for the help!

[noahsense]

I've only had airbag cars but I believe that the steering flex joint (guibo) is rivited into place.
The best way to replace it will be to clamp it in a vice and drill the rivets. Once you've removed the rivets, you can replace with bolts and fresh self-locking nuts. If you're feeling lazy, the zionsville swap kit ($$) has all the stuff you need.

Drilling Tips:
-use a drilling lubricant.
-drill slowely to avoid overheating your bit - lose the temper and the bit will be useless.
-Begin with a small drill bit and move up in size.

When the time comes, rebuilding a steering rack isn't the toughest thing and rebuild kits are available. It's just cleaning and replacing seals which is easy as long as you use an adequette drift to get those seals seated properly.