Question about engine rebuild.

[zerrg12]

Hi all.
I am new to the engine rebuild game. Just recently purchased an 89 325ix.
Since the car is old as me and i have no history of the car i would like to rebuild the engine. Before i start calling places. I would like your guys opinion of how to prepare the engine. Obviously the engine has to come out the car. But do i disassemble everything to bare minimum, leaving the valve cover the head and the block intact but everything else off the engine. I have no idea what machine shop requires usually. The rebuild i want is to fully clean the engine. Inspect the cylinders and determine if honing or boring is required. I also would like the crankshaft to be inspected as well. Since i would like to replace the crankshaft bearings. I am pretty sure some went through this process just want some insight.

[ACVC325ix]

Very little about the M20 in the IX is unique to any other E30 with a M20 in it so you can check out the wealth of knowledge in the section below!

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/search.php?searchid=24569155

[EyExR]

I would suggest that if you trust the shop 100% then give them everything intact and let them do it.
But I would first ask why are you doing this? Is the car running poorly? You'll want to fix any other issues prior to an engine rebuild. Have you done compression and leak down tests in addition to inspecting your spark plugs for the overall condition of the engine?

[zerrg12]

I would suggest that if you trust the shop 100% then give them everything intact and let them do it.
But I would first ask why are you doing this? Is the car running poorly? You'll want to fix any other issues prior to an engine rebuild. Have you done compression and leak down tests in addition to inspecting your spark plugs for the overall condition of the engine?

I have not done any tests. I purchased the car in none running condition. Reason it being as it is i guess you are right. Need to do compression test to see what is the reason it is not running. Didn't do any tests if it gets fuel or spark. But i was just planning to buy all things needed to have full restored car. Something similar close how it was when it came from the factory. ( I know the mentality if i ain't broke don't fix it. But at this point i would feel better with a new restored engine). Reason why i wanted to start with the engine restore is because in case if head's or anything is cracked i would like the machine shop to inspect it and tell me where i am at with the engine. I don't want to start on the body work without knowing this engine is good. I would love to do the engine rebuild myself but i have no idea where to start. I didn't see bentley manual with 325ix so no idea what are the oem specs of the cylinder heads and other specs. This is why i considered taking it to the machine shop. Plus i never took an engine apart but not afraid to do it. I mainly specialize in body work and electrical when it comes to cars. Not saying i am bad with a wrench just little guidance would of been great. Regarding compression. What is the pressure i should be hoping for? I don't want to waste your guys times with all this stories but real reason is. I want to restore this engine to brand new shape. This car will be a personal possession to me and would not plan to sell it.

[ghatid]

I have not done any tests. I purchased the car in none running condition. Reason it being as it is i guess you are right. Need to do compression test to see what is the reason it is not running. Didn't do any tests if it gets fuel or spark. But i was just planning to buy all things needed to have full restored car. Something similar close how it was when it came from the factory. ( I know the mentality if i ain't broke don't fix it. But at this point i would feel better with a new restored engine). Reason why i wanted to start with the engine restore is because in case if head's or anything is cracked i would like the machine shop to inspect it and tell me where i am at with the engine. I don't want to start on the body work without knowing this engine is good. I would love to do the engine rebuild myself but i have no idea where to start. I didn't see bentley manual with 325ix so no idea what are the oem specs of the cylinder heads and other specs. This is why i considered taking it to the machine shop. Plus i never took an engine apart but not afraid to do it. I mainly specialize in body work and electrical when it comes to cars. Not saying i am bad with a wrench just little guidance would of been great. Regarding compression. What is the pressure i should be hoping for? I don't want to waste your guys times with all this stories but real reason is. I want to restore this engine to brand new shape. This car will be a personal possession to me and would not plan to sell it.

If you're concerned about the engine, start with a compression test. It's cheap, takes a little time, but not difficult. Here's a tool:

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3612-Compression-Tester-Piece/dp/B000EVU89I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502382831&sr=8-2&keywords=compression+test

What you're looking for is consistent PSI between your cylinders. I think it's in the 156-160 range, but I don't remember for sure. That information is out there for the M20.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I'd say the FIRST thing is to get it running.
You can check spark and injector pulsing with a long screwdriver.
If it's sat for more than a year and the last thing it ran on had ethanol (e.g. 10% ethanol like normal pump gas) then the injectors are likely stuck and will need to be removed and professionally cleaned.

Do your compression test with the throttle wide open. You'll get more consistent results.

If you're worried about a cracked head, it may show up on a compression check, or you can do a leak-down test on the cooling system with the engine still in the car.

You can also evaluate the conditions of the bores and rings by rotating the engine slowly by hand while a leak-down tester is connected.

M20's almost never need bearings unless they've been run low/out of oil.

The only "must do" once you get it running is a timing belt.

There are FOUR gearbox oils to check: transmission, transfer case, front diff and rear diff.

[zerrg12]

Great information guys Thank You. Yes I will try to start it first. But before that i will do all the tests so i can make sure this dmn thing would even start. Only information i had from previous owner that the engine ran and he took it to some car meets. But one day he could not start it so he decided to sell it. I mean it could of been anything at this point. Failed fuel pump. So will have to test that. Getting no spark so will test that. Maybe a CPS. But will come back with the results. Especially with the compression test.

[EyExR]

I would also add that you should be arming yourself with knowledge now. Read, read, read and plan things first. Write out a bunch of questions you have now then do research and record the answers and save them. I like to send myself emails. This way I can always revisit the subject by simply searching my email.

[zerrg12]

Is the e30 bently manual good for the ix series even thou does not include the 325ix on the hard cover, referring to most engine things? I mean everything is the same i think besides the transfer case AWD.

[EyExR]

Is the e30 bently manual good for the ix series even thou does not include the 325ix on the hard cover, referring to most engine things? I mean everything is the same i think besides the transfer case AWD.

The Bentley is fine. It'll help you troubleshoot and repair most things. But engine removal is different because of the all wheel drive. You'll need to drop the front subframe and the attached steering rack. Your exhaust needs to come out, and you'll have to disconnect the front and rear driveshafts...

You could use this for your no start issue:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot

And doing pinout tests from the ECU is helpful:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/ECU_Pinouts

Link to Bentley PDF if needed:

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=164030

BTW - you can see if your fuel pump is running by jumping pins #30 and #87 at the fuel relay... Just open the doors, lift up the rear seat and listen for it. But I find it more useful to attach an inline fuel pressure gauge just before the fuel rail.. I leave mine on.

[nrubenstein]

Just rebuilding an engine for giggles is a $5-10k project. Figure out why the car isn't running, fix that, and then see how the engine is. And if the engine is bad, it probably makes a lot more sense to swap in a different one than rebuild. M20s will go for a long time. In fact, I've known SpecE30 racers who regretted doing engine rebuilds as they netted virtually nothing for $8-10k.

[zerrg12]

Lots to think about. Thank you guys. Will defiantly get on top of things and make this engine running again. I think some of you are right, regarding rebuild the engine just for no gains from it. Making the engine run should be my top priority and hear it how it runs. Besides wont know if my transfer-case is good without doing the jack test, and to do that my engine needs to run. The thing is this car wont be any track car nor something that i would be pushing to the limits with. The plan is that i wold like to use it as a regular from point a to point b kind of driving.

[zerrg12]

Update.
Got the car running but it didn't sound right. I don't know it might be just me. New to e30's. Did a cold engine dry compression test. This is my results.
Cylinder 1 - 160
Cylinder 2 - 90
Cylinder 3 - 160
Cylinder 4 - 90
Cylinder 5 - 150-160
Cylinder 6 - 150-160

My guess is the head gasket or something with the head. Maybe a valve.

[flyboyx]

Dump a couple teaspoons of oil down each spark plug hole and spin the engine over about 8 or 10 times. do the test again. It could be those two cylinders are just dry from sitting.

[The Dark Side of Will]

He said he got it running, which should have oiled everything up.
I @$$umed that the compression test was after it ran.