Alright.... so I finally got the touring on the road. After looking into what its got under the hood I've found that its a euro 2.7 stroker. So I'm kinda excited since I paid next to nothing for the car. Its been sitting since July so of course I'm a little cautious of the car at first. But it starts and the fluids are all full and it seems to be in ok shape. Lil things need to be fixed here and there. But thats for later..... So I take it to work this morning and figure out theres no heat in this sunnuva bitch. Nothin like the autobahn at 5am and no heat. Needless to say the INSIDE of the window is freezing over. I get to my exit after about a 80mph run of 7 minutes and the oil light on the dash is on. Nothing on the overhead. But its real dim. I rev the car it goes away. ONLY the oil light. So.... I'm thinking maybe its low and the sensor for the overhead is burnt. I get it on post and check it. Nope.... its perfectly full. I haven't been able to reproduce the fault since then, but it has me worried. Any ideas?
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The overhead check control lights are LED's. Its VERY rare for them to fail.
The only time I have observed odd "idiot light" behaviour is when the alternator charging voltage is too low.
Most of the idiot lights in the cluster will come on bright at idle with a bad alternator, and get progressively dimmer and or go away as RPM's go up and charging voltage with it.
That said a reasonably healty m20 oil pump should generate 10PSI per 1000RPM's. -
Yeah.... usually a bad alt would trigger ALL idiot lights. This was only one. And I made sure they all worked. So it led me to believe I was actually experiencing a loss of oil pressure.
I wasn't implying that the LED went bad.... more along the lines of the sensor.
This was faint at idle but enough to notice. Idle was normal and not rough. Around 1500 rpm it would go away completely. Just enough to worry me.
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First thing I would do is replace the oil pressure switch. They are cheap insurance, and considering what is to lose... replace it.
The pressure switch is basicly a ball bearing backed with a spring. When pressure drops the spring/ball bearing unspring and close the contact.
The contact is closed (and idiot light triggered) at 7PSI.
The switch will never allow a fading light when operating properly. It is a on/off switch by design. If the switch is bad I could see it passing voltage with varied resistance and creating the fading in the light.Comment
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Good point. The light did vary in brightness. I'm not used to the clutch and I let it out too quick. RPM's dropped to around 300 or so and the light came on brighter. Also its brighter when you initially turn the car on. So I would think you may be right. Where this switch located? Never had to replace it so I haven't the foggiest.
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For all intents the oil pressure switch just grounds out the light bulb indicator in the cluster when it closes.
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You da man Jordo. Thanks for the help.
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