2.8 stroker help

[kissinger]

I own an 89’ 325i. It was running rich at start up and leaving black sooty deposits on the back of the car. Figured it needed a tune-up, cap, rotor, and sparkplug wires. A short time later I broke a rocker arm. I unassembled heads and noticed cam was baldy scored. I decided to rebuild motor, used my 2.7crank Ross pistons, 272 cam complete head rebuild – larger 1mm exhaust valve, 19 lbs m30 injectors lightened flywheel balanced motor. I also noticed intake didn’t match head very well so I ported intake to match. Ran lean upper rpm, changed back to stock chip. Motor real hard to start and still black sooty deposits smells rich at startup black smoke. Changed coil msd blaster, cap and rotor runs stronger but no change. All parts spec out tps, 02, air bypass, crank pulse, cat don’t work also have m30 Afm to install. I have planed to upgrade to IE fuel regulator could this fix my cold and warm start problem. I believe it runs rich because i have to floor it to start it after many cranks it almost won’t run then it runs and smokes after its warm it runs great?

[nando]

how long have you been running it? my stroker barely ran at all when I first started it (hell, the "check engine" light came on a few times), I had to keep my foot on the gas for the first 20 minutes or it would die. after I drove it for a couple days it was fine. now it starts up and runs smooth pretty much like a stock motor.

I do have an IE AFPR, but I bumped up my fuel pressure to 4 bar. I'm using a bavauto chip and rebuilt 19# injectors, with stock everything else (ecu, afm, etc). burns really clean, no black soot or clouds of smoke when I floor it.

[kissinger]

Well i have about 1000miles, it also took a few days to learn injector cycle.
I have bavauto chip but took out because lean mixture at high rpm wfo. put back in soon after buy FPR, think i just need more fuel. I can drag my finger on back of trunk its black soot real werd

[kissinger]

installed IE AFPR 4 bar and AFM it runs real strong great power, starts right up now but still runs rich at idle, went to pretest car to see how its running, hc are to high at idle great through rpm range wont pass smog need to figure this out. will replace wires and o2 soon and intresting that smog shop said cat was working at rpm range i thought it was not good 200,000 miles on it and a rich condition no water vapor i wonder if i even need it at all ?

[kissinger]

Well smog was required and I pre tested at 1500 HC, smog tech told me that I have too much cam overlap (272 cam) and would not pass. Often people come up to me and ask if I stuffed a v8 in here lol. I found info on AFM adjustments here in forums and learned how to change spring tension and CO adj. with Allen key. I went back and made Adj. while pre testing, HC went way down tech thought his computer was malfunctioning lol and reset it. I passed with 7 HC and .01 CO they couldn’t believe it.

I still have a couple problems; my car is hard starting when it sets after warmed up, have to floor it to start? When it’s cold it starts right up, I think the Dme doesn’t know how to open injectors? Think I need correct chip or megasquirt? I have a Bavauto chip and my car pings real bad between 4000-5500 rpm when WFO I think spark timing to advance so I run stock chip. I wonder if I need to change cam timing.

[winstontj]

Personally i'd do a compression & leakdown test. you shouldn't be getting black smoke at all from the car. After 1,000 miles I'd think that the car has cycled enough to learn the AFM & injectors, etc.did you do something foolish like reuse a head gasket or forget to torque your head bolts all the way? install the rings wrong on the pistons? bore the block and forget to use oversize pistons or rings???

[Turf1600]

The black smoke is just form it running WAY rich. Last night i met a guy with a 2.7 stroker in an e21 with the same problem. What injectors are you using?

[kissinger]

Warm hard starting

Ya was running way to rich, dialed it in at smog station its running lean.
Rebuilt 19 lbs m30 injectors, m30 Afm, IE AFPR all other parts in spec.
I cut the rings myself and compression test at 500miles (161-166 within 5lbs) soon i will post my web page on all details.
posted at Dtmpower.net the afro guy replyed, usually when you go for higher capacity injectors it's a good idea to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. most people run them at 2.5bar when the injectors are first installed to give the ecu a chance to figure out whats going on, then they jump it up to 3.0 bar once
everything is sweet.could also just be that your injectors are clogged and need to be serviced.
if that doesn't work then maybe your afm is still playing up or might be buggered.
All try backing of fuel and unplug computer to reset it hopefully this will work.
thanks for the posts

[winstontj]

Ya was running way to rich, dialed it in at smog station its running lean.
Rebuilt 19 lbs m30 injectors, m30 Afm, IE AFPR all other parts in spec.
I cut the rings myself and compression test at 500miles (161-166 within 5lbs) soon i will post my web page on all details.
posted at Dtmpower.net the afro guy replyed, usually when you go for higher capacity injectors it's a good idea to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. most people run them at 2.5bar when the injectors are first installed to give the ecu a chance to figure out whats going on, then they jump it up to 3.0 bar once
everything is sweet.could also just be that your injectors are clogged and need to be serviced.
if that doesn't work then maybe your afm is still playing up or might be buggered.
All try backing of fuel and unplug computer to reset it hopefully this will work.
thanks for the posts

Question about AdjFPR's... I have one and have no idea whos it is. I think BavAuto. Is there a manual or base setting for it? PO said leave it alone and don't screw with it. I want to take it back to the base setting and start over because it could be the cause of my idle issues. I know there are 24# injectors in the car but I have no clue where the FPR is set at because there is no gauge. Any thoughts on the BavAuto FPR?
Thanks

[kissinger]

You would need a fuel gauge to adjust correctly, (325 33-39 psi and 325i 40-46 psi) A rising rate fuel regulator from Bavauto might be better than my IE Afpr, i see fuel drop when i Throttle up. idle issues are ICV problems, TPS, Afm, air leaks or DME related, people with 153 Dme have idle issues i have read. my car has never had idle issues and i have played with Afpr, computer just compensates and idles fine. What are idle Characteristics?

[winstontj]

You would need a fuel gauge to adjust correctly, (325 33-39 psi and 325i 40-46 psi) A rising rate fuel regulator from Bavauto might be better than my IE Afpr, i see fuel drop when i Throttle up. idle issues are ICV problems, TPS, Afm, air leaks or DME related, people with 153 Dme have idle issues i have read. my car has never had idle issues and i have played with Afpr, computer just compensates and idles fine. What are idle Characteristics?

Rough. Missing, check engine light sometimes but goes away if I rev up over 4,000rpm (think it's the o2 sensor that gets cold or something) but it's NEW and that only happens when it's COLD. Hesitates like the MAF is screwed but it's not, all new stuff under there and it tests out OK per all the manuals. It's real notchy, really lumpy idle almost but vibrates as if it's running on 5... Not really sure but I figured maybe one of the injectors or the FPR but I guess not since injectors are recently rebuilt & FPR is like new.