Car always double locks!

[330SMG]

I did a and got shit. My drivers door only double locks. I changed the micro switch...no dice(BTW I have a nice new BMW micro switch for sale cheap) What am I missing. The lock is activating the switch, can the central locking module cause this or is there a broken wire that I am missing? Thanks for any insight.

[NC325iC]

whats the problem?

[330SMG]

whats the problem?

I would like to be able to open the passenger door when the car is locked but instead I have to first go to the trunk or drivers door to get into the passenger side.

[StereoInstaller1]

Deadbolt mode?

Do you have the electrical manual?

[NC325iC]

i dont think i understand double locking then

[e30s52]

Deadbolt mode?

Do you have the electrical manual?

i dont think its dead bolt mode. maybe ghetto mode?

[StereoInstaller1]

Yeah, I am kinda curious about what the hell is going on with this guys car.

How about telling what it is doing, (or not doing) not what you think is wrong?

[Brian D]

I'm ASSuming his car is doing the same thing as mine. When I lock the doors from the drivers side, I don't get the locks to actuate at the 45 degree key position. I have to go to deadbolt (90 degrees) to get the locks to actuate. Then I can't unlock the car from the passenger door. If I lock it from the pass side, then I can unlock it from any position. I have another drivers side lock actuator, I've just been too lazy to install it. Maybe next weekend.

Is that the OP's problem?

[StereoInstaller1]

That sure sounds like it. Sounds like a pain in the butt, too.

If that is the case, I think you need to repair the mechanical aspect of the locks, not the electrical...but I don't know for sure.

Here is what I would do to test it: I would pull the drivers side speaker, connect a wire to the yellow/blue and the green/blue (like a 8' chunk of speaker wire) and with the door closed, tap either wire against a ground, and see if it locks properly. A "test pulse", basically.

Then, use your testlight to see if those wires go to ground when turning the key.

If it locks when doing a test pulse and does not while turning the key, the issue is either wiring or switch. Unfortunately, the switch is the one inside the actuator.

I would check the molex connector in the doorjam first, personally.

If it does not lock on the test pulse, I would check the "unlock inhibit relay" shown on page 5126-0 of the BMW electrical manual.

[330SMG]

That sure sounds like it. Sounds like a pain in the butt, too.

If that is the case, I think you need to repair the mechanical aspect of the locks, not the electrical...but I don't know for sure.

Here is what I would do to test it: I would pull the drivers side speaker, connect a wire to the yellow/blue and the green/blue (like a 8' chunk of speaker wire) and with the door closed, tap either wire against a ground, and see if it locks properly. A "test pulse", basically.

Then, use your testlight to see if those wires go to ground when turning the key.

If it locks when doing a test pulse and does not while turning the key, the issue is either wiring or switch. Unfortunately, the switch is the one inside the actuator.

I would check the molex connector in the doorjam first, personally.

If it does not lock on the test pulse, I would check the "unlock inhibit relay" shown on page 5126-0 of the BMW electrical manual.

Thanks... I give it a try and see if it is the stupid actuator.