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More clutch bleeding issues with all new parts

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    #16
    UPDATE!!!!

    ok guys. so i bled the clutch the way Forced said to and it seemed to work but the clutch pedal still felt too soft BUT now had pressure. since i already bought the pressure bleeder i went ahead and used that to confirm it was bled. some air did come out and the pedal did firm up but VERY little.
    now, i took the slave back off and just for shits and giggles i pressed on the clutch fork with a screwdriver and guess what...i was able to push it all the way in with no resistance.
    so it seems like the throw out bearing is not even contacting the pressure plate. thats the only thing i can come up with. the fork does push back out but very slowly so i'm guessing its just by the pressure of the small spring on the other side of the fork.
    any ideas on this? i'm probably going to be pulling the trans on thursday but i'm 99% sure i installed everything correctly (not my first clutch job).
    thanks

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      #17
      also, im running a single mass FW with a LUK 03023 clutch kit if it matters.

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        #18
        ah huh!

        i had the opposite problem. I put a dual mass flywheel in with a gearbox that came off a single flywheel model and the throwout was jammed up against the clutch partially disengaging it with clutch pedal all the way out.

        I couldn't quite get to the bottom of where the difference actually was (i swapped in a single flywheel and it worked fine), but the internet suggests that it is either the throw out bearing carrier that is thicker on the single mass gearboxes or the pivot point for the clutch fork in the gearbox itself is different.

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          #19
          Oooo that would make sense. Anyone have input on is?
          I have a eta trans with the sensors on it but using a single mass. I'll look into clutch for differences but it seems like all part numbers superceed to dual mass conversions.

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            #20
            BMW BRASS CLUTCH FORK PIVOT PIN - 21511223328 Description These Clutch Fork Pivot Pin - 21511223328 bushings should be changed anytime the clutch fork or release bearing is removed. These units have improved durability and ensure smooth, squeak-free shifts. Having this part in hand when you're doing any job that


            This one looks to be taller than the one I installed (oem bmw).

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              #21
              Originally posted by e30davie View Post
              ah huh!

              i had the opposite problem. I put a dual mass flywheel in with a gearbox that came off a single flywheel model and the throwout was jammed up against the clutch partially disengaging it with clutch pedal all the way out.

              I couldn't quite get to the bottom of where the difference actually was (i swapped in a single flywheel and it worked fine), but the internet suggests that it is either the throw out bearing carrier that is thicker on the single mass gearboxes or the pivot point for the clutch fork in the gearbox itself is different.
              The flywheel is thicker. The TOB is the same part number for all of them. The location on the transmission for the slave slightly changed.

              If you look at the late eta, there was two part numbers for the Getrag...



              The "really" early eat used a single mass g260 with no shift carrier mount tabs on top, then later they used a g260 with both. Then there was single and dual mass models.

              AFAIK, there are 4 kinds of g260 housings.

              1. Early model only shift carrier
              2. Later early model with both carrier mounts
              3. Deep bell housing dual mass
              4. Late model only carrier

              You had the opposite problem most get. They swap a single mass in their 1987eta and the "TOB is too short" when actually the rod on the slave is. They swap in the Euro 320 TOB as a solution, but I have also extended the slave rod when needed and it works the same.
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                #22
                haha theres always new information coming up.
                when we were originally trying to figure out what trans we had, i read there were 3 types and we had the "mid year".
                were actually getting the 320 TOB today but how do you go about extending the rod? im guessing cut and weld? and wouldn't that put your throw out bearing at an extreme angle when engaging the clutch?

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                  #23
                  TOB is a slip fit on the input shaft housing, so that angle never changes. The angle on the fork is a little more extreme, but it didn't bother anything in the couple cars I used that method - the pivot ball was also extended in one.

                  Yes, weld a little extension on it.
                  john@m20guru.com
                  Links:
                  Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                    #24
                    Well, my cousin already picked up another TOB so I guess we'll just go that route. Just out of couriousity, how did you extend the pivot? Just a couple washers behind it?

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                      #25
                      [QUOTE=ForcedFirebird;4728450
                      You had the opposite problem most get. They swap a single mass in their 1987eta and the "TOB is too short" when actually the rod on the slave is. They swap in the Euro 320 TOB as a solution, but I have also extended the slave rod when needed and it works the same.[/QUOTE]

                      ah huh, makes sense.

                      Yeah i had bits from all over the place trying it make it work. I had an eta gearbox to go with the dual mass that the clutch worked fine but it was missing 3rd gear....so i bought another gbox that turned out to be from a 320i and the drama started. Worked well in the end to get rid of the dual mass flywheel just i had to remove and fit gearboxes far too many times!

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                        #26
                        well great news. the new TOB worked and the car finally moved under its own power. only complaint is that the pedal is a little soft and its hard to gauge when it engages/disengages. i am going to bleed the clutch again tomorrow any maybe the brakes while im at it so hopefully that will firm it up a bit. when i get time i do want to install that spring on the pedal and possibly lengthen the slave cylinder rod to take some of the free play out of it.
                        thank you all for the help.

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                          #27
                          e30's have a naturally soft pedal compared to most cars IMO
                          john@m20guru.com
                          Links:
                          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                            #28
                            That I was thinking it could be. The clutch also engages disengages very low, is that normal too?

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