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More clutch bleeding issues with all new parts

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    More clutch bleeding issues with all new parts

    Hey guys, I have another one for you.
    We're done with our swap and went to bleed the clutch yesterday but we're not getting any pressure. I thought I'd leave the line loose and gravity bleed it but even then. I'm not getting much fluid to the slave. When you press the pedal, air and some fluid comes out.
    After that I used a vac pump to pull fluid through and got about 3oz out but the pedal felt the same.
    THEN we did a reverse bleed and finally the pedal felt good. We confirmed that it was bled by doing a regular bleed with the clutch pedal and it was good to go. Well, about 30 min later we tried to drive it and again NO pedal feel at all.
    I don't know if it can be a bad master or slave or something else. Everything is new since we did a auto to manual conversion.

    Any ideas?

    #2
    I had trouble getting a good pedal on my manual to auto swap, I am unsure if it was the true fix but i undid the slave from the gbox, held it in such a way that the bleed screw was pointing straight up and veeeerryy carefully blead it that way, making sure my assistant never pushed the clutch pedal in without the bleed screw open. Seemed to let a fair bit of air out the first push, then the pedal came good. been about 3000kms now and no issues.

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      #3
      i was thinking about doing that also but was worried that it would push the piston out of the slave. well...i'll give that a shot tomorrow.

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        #4
        Also, don't know if I mentioned this but we don't have that small spring that goes on the clutch pedal. From what I've read it seems like you don't need it but we should be getting one tomorrow anyway.

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          #5
          Buy a pressure bleeder.

          Its Christmas, be nicee to yourself and let Santa get you one.

          No drips anywhere? Did you replace with new any of the components?
          ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

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            #6
            Originally posted by Supratreo View Post
            i was thinking about doing that also but was worried that it would push the piston out of the slave. well...i'll give that a shot tomorrow.
            If you go that route, use a small C-clamp to prevent the rod from moving.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              Thanks for the device guys. I'll get to work tomorrow. What's weird is that even with the line disc. At the slave, fluid should be running out but it's not. I'm thinking that there could also be a restriction somewhere but only thing I can think of is a kink in the hardline from the MC BUT that also looks fine :/

              Maybe I will get a pressure bleeder. I've been wanting one for a while anyway.

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                #8
                I have NEVER even cracked open a slave bleeder in a BMW and work on them for a living. It sounds like you have a leaking seal in the master if you had pedal for a short time.

                The bleeding is very simple, and I have done it alone countless times over the years. Fill the reservoir, manually pull the pedal up (hold it with something if it doesn't stay, bungee cord works great). Most of them will stay, specially if it has the return spring. Next, go under the car and remove the slave from the transmission. Plunge the rod in by hand several times (usually takes about 5-6) until it starts to get hard to push in. Then use two hands and one of the fins on the transmission to get leverage to plunge it in several more times. If you have a helper, then let them stand over the reservoir and watch the bubbles come out of the blue hose - they aren't needed for anything else. You will audibly hear the bubbles leaving the system. Install the slave back into the transmission and you will have a fully bled system. The clutch will disengage immediately when the pedal is pressed. If not, you have a failure somewhere.

                The hard way: Fill the system and manually move the pedal up/down - often times you need to pull it back up by hand at first (and I mean like the first 50 times). Then when you have a little tiny bit of pedal pressure, you can pump it about 200 more times with your foot until the system self bleeds. This is a great work out, but when your left thigh is 4x the size of the right, you can thank this method for it - you might even naturally swim in circles as a by product.
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                  #9
                  Thank you for the great advice. I already ordered a pressure bleeder but I will try your way first and let you guys know the outcome.

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                    #10
                    Reverse bleeding is the easiest way, pump the fluid up from the bottom through the bleeder. Took me 5 minutes (no that's not hyperbole) to go from dry system to good pedal in the last 2 jobs I've done.

                    IG @turbovarg
                    '91 318is, M20 turbo
                    [CoTM: 4-18]
                    '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
                    - updated 1-26

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                      #11
                      I agree with everything ForcedFirebird said.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by varg View Post
                        Reverse bleeding is the easiest way, pump the fluid up from the bottom through the bleeder. Took me 5 minutes (no that's not hyperbole) to go from dry system to good pedal in the last 2 jobs I've done.
                        My method is reverse bleeding, no special tools required ;)

                        Although, if the slave is already installed, you save the time of slave removal if you have a pump. Typically, though, my method is done when putting in a fresh slave - and it's a good idea to make a habit of replacing both at the same time. Countless times customers try and "save money" by replacing only one part, and about 99% of the time they have to come back to replace the other a short time later.
                        john@m20guru.com
                        Links:
                        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                          I agree with everything ForcedFirebird said.
                          Do you swim in circles Jim? Just kidding, hope all is well with ya!
                          john@m20guru.com
                          Links:
                          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                            Do you swim in circles Jim? Just kidding, hope all is well with ya!
                            Nope, spirals.
                            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                              #15
                              One other question. Does the bleeder face up or down? I know it might be a dumb question but I naturally have it pointed up but from some Google searches I've seen it mounted both ways.
                              Also, is there a reason bmw had to put that stupid bend in, the rubber line instead of having it go straight into the slave haha

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