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    replace rear wheel hub?

    tried to change out my rear rotors and noticed that rotor screw was rounded (F*CK!)
    had to drill out but inadvertently damaged the threading on the rear wheel hub.

    Guessing i have to replace the hub now.. do i have to replace the wheel bearing also?

    or anyone have any tips?

    #2
    Gonna try to re-tap it

    Comment


      #3
      chase the threads or retap is your best bet.
      "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

      85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
      88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
      89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
      91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

      Comment


        #4
        If you change the hub you have to at the same time change the wheel bearing as the inner race will likely seperate with the hub.

        You can chase the threads or get a time-sert kit.

        You can also ignore it, that little screw is only ment to hold the rotor in place to allow you to put the wheel on and align the lug nut holes. The lug nuts and rim is what actually holds the rotor in place.
        Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

        Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

        Comment


          #5
          Cool. Thanks. Ordered M8x1.25 tap and gonna give it a try... if it doesn't work I'll just leave it as "noid" suggested. Didn't realize he screw really doesn't do anythjnf

          Comment


            #6
            Taps can, but normally shouldn't be used to repair threads because they have a tendency to cut away fresh material.

            Use a thread chaser instead, they look like taps, but are meant for the purpose of thread cleaning and repair (gentle reforming).
            Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

            Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

            Comment


              #7
              Agreed. No biggy if you don't fix it.
              "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

              85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
              88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
              89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
              91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by noid View Post
                If you change the hub you have to at the same time change the wheel bearing as the inner race will likely seperate with the hub.

                You can chase the threads or get a time-sert kit.

                You can also ignore it, that little screw is only ment to hold the rotor in place to allow you to put the wheel on and align the lug nut holes. The lug nuts and rim is what actually holds the rotor in place.
                +1

                I wouldn't bother with the retaining screw. Not worth the trouble. And yes, change the bearings if pulling the hub. Inner race always seem to separate.

                As a side note, the races are VERY easy to pop off. Take a grinder with a cutting wheel and score a notch on the top of the inner race. Then take an air chisel and hit the notch. It'll pop right out. You may get lucky and not have to even notch the race. They sometimes pop off with just the air chisel. Should only take a minute or two per race.

                Good luck!

                Comment


                  #9
                  thanks for the retap suggestions. it worked. =P

                  Comment

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