Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Locking Problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Locking Problem

    When I got out of the car today, I went to lock it and the key stayed horizontal. It did not return to the vertical position. When I got back to the car, I could not unlock it. I could turn the key back to the vertical position, but it would not turn to the left to unlock. I tried the passenger side as well, and it was the same. It felt like it was jammed, it would not budge. By fiddling around with the passenger side, I was finally able to get it unlocked and was able to pull up the driver's side lock up from the inside.

    When I got home it still did not work, but I noticed that central locking worked perfectly normal from the trunk. Turning the to left unlocked the entire car and turning to the right locked the entire car. What could be the problem? Is it the central locking actuator?

    #2
    Sounds like you double-locked the car from the driver's door (which prevents the other locks from working until you unlock from that door), but the lock cylinder didn't properly unlock afterwards. It's possible that the small ball inside the cylinder made its way out of the track it runs in, and isn't allowing proper movement. This is a common problem with the old lock cylinder design. I don't believe it's the actuator because you manually unlock whichever door the key is inserted into and you still couldn't unlock the driver's door.

    You may want to look into a lock cylinder rebuild kit for the driver door; I did mine and it made a huge difference.
    Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

    Elva Courier build thread here!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
      Sounds like you double-locked the car from the driver's door (which prevents the other locks from working until you unlock from that door), but the lock cylinder didn't properly unlock afterwards. It's possible that the small ball inside the cylinder made its way out of the track it runs in, and isn't allowing proper movement. This is a common problem with the old lock cylinder design. I don't believe it's the actuator because you manually unlock whichever door the key is inserted into and you still couldn't unlock the driver's door.

      You may want to look into a lock cylinder rebuild kit for the driver door; I did mine and it made a huge difference.
      Is it possible I could buy a new lock cylinder instead of rebuilding it? Or buy a keyless entry kit and bypass it?

      Comment


        #4
        The rebuild kit is effectively a new cylinder. I'm not actually sure why they even call it a rebuild kit. You do have to assemble it, though. I think you may be able to go to the dealer to get a coded cylinder all built, but don't quote me on that.
        Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

        Elva Courier build thread here!

        Comment


          #5
          You can buy a coded ignition switch or I believe an entire lock set but I'm not aware of the option to just buy a coded door lock. Honestly, the rebuild kit is cheap and you get enough pins to recode it yourself. It takes longer to remove and replace the cylinde than it does to rebuild it and a search will reveal some excellent write ups.
          Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
          Alice the Time Capsule
          http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
          87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

          Comment

          Working...
          X