Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis

[bimmer630]

24V+ stock /e21 boosters, that's that shit I DON'T LIKE.

Why hate the stock booster? plenty of people are running turbos or other mods on their m20s that make more power than a 24v and most of them have stock boosters, no?

[Mr.SWISS]

Why hate the stock booster? plenty of people are running turbos or other mods on their m20s that make more power than a 24v and most of them have stock boosters, no?

Well of course, because their intakes still clear.

You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade

The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.

The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.

[craiggroves91]

Well of course, because their intakes still clear.

You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade

The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.

The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.

Or you could just relocate your stock one?
haha

I shouldn't defend it, I'm having stupid lockup issues and only God knows why they are happening

[Mr.SWISS]

Or you could just relocate your stock one?
haha

I shouldn't defend it, I'm having stupid lockup issues and only God knows why they are happening

Defend away, you are making us backwoods hillbilles look like German engineers Cali boi. :-P

[craiggroves91]

Defend away, you are making us backwoods hillbilles look like German engineers Cali boi. :-P

Actually my only issue is a bad booster.

[bimmer630]

Slotted 1/2" and did this.

theres a return spring that mounts off the end of the clevis pin. what'd ya do with that?

[bimmer630]

Well of course, because their intakes still clear.

You didn;t forget why you were re LOCATING you booster did you? You're totally right it needs no upgrade

The E32 booster ( same as ix) combo has the larger MC, and it helps pedal effort stay normal. all needed is an e30 ix clevis that's <$10 and a 2002tii remote res.

The stock booster and ix/e32 booster perform the same, with differing dimensions. Hence the reason most opt to go this route. Some go with the e21 thinking it will be the same only to be let down.

Ok well your original comment made it sound like you were saying any E30 with higher HP should have an upgraded booster, hence my comparison to modded m20s.


I dunno man... I dont see any issue with everything being relocated. Nobody flames on the v8 swap guys when they install their boosters in front of the wheel well actuated by bellcranks and such.. I know its a BMW design, but if you say my brakes will fail then whos saying someone who welds an e34 booster linkage into their e30 wont have a failure

[Mr.SWISS]

Ok well your original comment made it sound like you were saying any E30 with higher HP should have an upgraded booster, hence my comparison to modded m20s.


I dunno man... I dont see any issue with everything being relocated. Nobody flames on the v8 swap guys when they install their boosters in front of the wheel well actuated by bellcranks and such.. I know its a BMW design, but if you say my brakes will fail then whos saying someone who welds an e34 booster linkage into their e30 wont have a failure

No I never implied HP and booster size.

I have an issue with:

Jank ass welds
low iq enginerrz designing brakes
slotting the body of the car
welding pushrods and clevis's period, these things are cast as one piece for a reason.

Plain and simple, stock booster means one thing, you didn't want to pony up the extra frank or two for a proper booster and master.

This is not a flame, but a PSA to keep you deathtrap hella far from my family and loved ones.

Then again, you really think these will pass state inspection when the tech sees all this rigged bullshit?!?!

Because if I was grading it, I would use a red sharpie and bump some cube while doin it.

Ya better check yo self before you riggity wreck yo self.

[hwy84]

I'm bad for your health, I come real stealth...

Yay! Multi-quote time!

I also love Ice Cube, but I am hoping that we can play a little "It was a good day" instead of "Check yourself."

"...Even saw that lights of the Good Year blimp, and it read this clevis is PIMP."

Jank ass welds
low iq enginerrz designing brakes
slotting the body of the car
welding pushrods and clevis's period, these things are cast as one piece for a reason.

My weld looks Jank-ass. I agree. It's not. It has full penetration - I have enough welding experience to know. And as you know, with the right filler material, the weld has more strength that the surrounding material.

My IQ is just fine, thanks. I won't rise to the bait on that one. :)

The "body" of the car that I drilled (not slotted) is the firewall. I'd LIKE to think my legs are strong enough to deform that part of the car, but even with another... say, 50 holes in it, it's gonna be strong enough to do its job.

I agree that the piece is cast (it's actually machined from what appears to be a forged piece) for a reason - but we don't know what that reason is. Cost? Strength? Time to manufacture? Likely a combination.

Plain and simple, stock booster means one thing, you didn't want to pony up the extra frank or two for a proper booster and master.

Nope. I have an ix master right here. Bought it. Took the clevis off and used it for the stock booster. Didn't want to hassle with bending the hard lines to get to the master, when it was pushed out closer to the front of the car with the thicker booster. And I didn't want to hassle with the interference between the intake elbow and the master. So I already ponied up the frank, I just liked this solution better.

This is not a flame, but a PSA to keep you deathtrap hella far from my family and loved ones.

It reads a lot like a flame.

...And after thousands of miles, hours on the track, and a couple of autocrosses, I promise this is safe enough to drive near your family. I take braking VERY seriously, and I take my responsibility as a driver just as seriously. I am glad you do as well. I know many people likely do not. That's one of many places where we agree, actually.

I wouldn't have recommended this if I didn't feel it were 100 times better than drilling the pedal arm, using a smaller booster, going "full manual brakes" or any of the countless LESS-safe alternatives proposed on the boards.

Then again, you really think these will pass state inspection when the tech sees all this rigged bullshit?!?!

Yes. Because it did.

Ya better check yo self before you riggity wreck yo self.

"Cause haterz like you be bad for my health..." ;)

Really though, Swiss, I am usually a huge fan - your insights into the swap helped me tremendously throughout the project. I respect that you are trying to keep these cars as safe as possible, and agree the brakes are NOT an area to F around with in the name of saving a buck. Seriously - we agree fully there.

I am happy with this mod, and if you look at the design here - the "whole" clevis will still operate the booster rod even if the weld were to somehow fail completely. I am confident enough to drive this every day, with MY loved ones in the car, and around the loved ones of countless others. And I have done so safely.

YMMV, IMO, etc, etc.

Word.

[bimmer630]

if you look at the design here - the "whole" clevis will still operate the booster rod even if the weld were to somehow fail completely. I am confident enough to drive this every day, with MY loved ones in the car, and around the loved ones of countless others. And I have done so safely.

YMMV, IMO, etc, etc.

Word.

This ^ Is why I thought this mod would be totally safe too

[328ijunkie]

It works and is 'safe' if done properly (like the clevis mod). just not the 'best' way many argue. I prefer the dual diaphragm setup... :dunno

[Mr.SWISS]

Yay! Multi-quote time!

I also love Ice Cube, but I am hoping that we can play a little "It was a good day" instead of "Check yourself."

"...Even saw that lights of the Good Year blimp, and it read this clevis is PIMP."



My weld looks Jank-ass. I agree. It's not. It has full penetration - I have enough welding experience to know. And as you know, with the right filler material, the weld has more strength that the surrounding material.

My IQ is just fine, thanks. I won't rise to the bait on that one. :)

The "body" of the car that I drilled (not slotted) is the firewall. I'd LIKE to think my legs are strong enough to deform that part of the car, but even with another... say, 50 holes in it, it's gonna be strong enough to do its job.

I agree that the piece is cast (it's actually machined from what appears to be a forged piece) for a reason - but we don't know what that reason is. Cost? Strength? Time to manufacture? Likely a combination.



Nope. I have an ix master right here. Bought it. Took the clevis off and used it for the stock booster. Didn't want to hassle with bending the hard lines to get to the master, when it was pushed out closer to the front of the car with the thicker booster. And I didn't want to hassle with the interference between the intake elbow and the master. So I already ponied up the frank, I just liked this solution better.



It reads a lot like a flame.

...And after thousands of miles, hours on the track, and a couple of autocrosses, I promise this is safe enough to drive near your family. I take braking VERY seriously, and I take my responsibility as a driver just as seriously. I am glad you do as well. I know many people likely do not. That's one of many places where we agree, actually.

I wouldn't have recommended this if I didn't feel it were 100 times better than drilling the pedal arm, using a smaller booster, going "full manual brakes" or any of the countless LESS-safe alternatives proposed on the boards.



Yes. Because it did.



"Cause haterz like you be bad for my health..." ;)

Really though, Swiss, I am usually a huge fan - your insights into the swap helped me tremendously throughout the project. I respect that you are trying to keep these cars as safe as possible, and agree the brakes are NOT an area to F around with in the name of saving a buck. Seriously - we agree fully there.

I am happy with this mod, and if you look at the design here - the "whole" clevis will still operate the booster rod even if the weld were to somehow fail completely. I am confident enough to drive this every day, with MY loved ones in the car, and around the loved ones of countless others. And I have done so safely.

YMMV, IMO, etc, etc.

Word.

I hope you realize you are not par for the booster slotting idjits. Call me a purist but I despise when techs slot bodies, whether it be for a "mod" or because your jank ass Saturn chassis flexed so bad this is the only way to get the alignment in spec.

There will always be an exception to the rule, pop ya colla, not your clutch pimpin.

I don;t hate, I regulate.
;)

[bimmer630]

Can People who did this mod post up pics of their booster to intake clearance? and What direction the offset of their motor mounts face?

Also I just realized my stock M20 setup had a check valve in the booster vacuum hose. I just ran a hose straight to the intake with the swap. Should their be a check valve in there?

[328ijunkie]

^If you want the brake booster to work if you stall then yes.

[bimmer630]

Yeah... that check valve from the m20 has three ports ..I guess I should just cap the smaller one?