Is it possible to swap rear fenders between early/late models?

[cheeunit890]

Hey R3v,

Asking a theoretical question. I've searched both on these forums as well as Google, and have yet to see anyone do this.

Does anyone have a ballpark figure of what it would cost to take the early model rear fenders that are bigger, and transplant them onto the late model? I understand there would likely be some cutting/welding involved, and I'd definitely take this to a professional shop to do it. I love my late model, but it bugs me like crazy that I can't get the wheel fitment and "stance" (for lack of a better word) that an early model car can get.

I'm assuming most people just buy an old model instead of going through this trouble, but I love my car!

[ak-]

Yes it can be done. I've seen one example in person.

No clue what it would cost, but can't imagine it being overly extensive.

[reelizmpro]

I wouldn't do it. It's not that big of a deal. If the rear is too low on your late model, raise the rear suspension. Problem solved. Mind as well get flares or go Pandem or something if you're going through the trouble.

[cheeunit890]

Yes it can be done. I've seen one example in person.

No clue what it would cost, but can't imagine it being overly extensive.

Good to know! Do you happen to know if that person is on any of the forums, or do you have any pics?

I wouldn't do it. It's not that big of a deal. If the rear is too low on your late model, raise the rear suspension. Problem solved. Mind as well get flares or go Pandem or something if you're going through the trouble.

Definitely appreciate your input. For even fender gap on the front and back wheels, I definitely notice the pitch. Flares or Pandem would be nice for a dedicated track car, however I like it when things look subtle/OEM+.

For example, it's impossible for late models to sit like this:



The overall look is vastly different to me.

[reelizmpro]

i don't see the issue. Even fender gap is easily achieved by lowering the front and/or raising the rear. My vert has uncut H&R Race springs without spring pads in front and extra pads in the rear.

[cheeunit890]

i don't see the issue. Even fender gap is easily achieved by lowering the front and/or raising the rear. My vert has uncut H&R Race springs without spring pads in front and extra pads in the rear.

How does the car ride without the spring pads in the front? I have H&R race as well. Your car looks great btw!

[nrubenstein]

I'd suggest that it would make a lot more sense to buy an early model than to spend $5k+ swapping rear quarters around.

[ak-]

Not sure if he's on the forums. I met him at the gas station, then saw the car on Craigslist a couple months later. It looked oem.

[cheeunit890]

I'd suggest that it would make a lot more sense to buy an early model than to spend $5k+ swapping rear quarters around.

Makes sense from a financial stand point. Perhaps when I have a chance to lease a car just for work, I'll make the jump to an old model (this is my only car).

Thanks for the input guys!

[djjerme]

I had to replace the rear quarter panels and tail panel on the race car out of necessity, and while it was just swapping like for like, there is a lot that would be needed to do the swap correctly.

You would need both quarter panels, the inner fender sheet metal (they are spot welded together on the wheel well seam), the rear panel, the taillights and the internal carpet panel if you want to keep your trunk look civilized. Then you have the bumper change, because the early quarters are meant for the diving boards/euro bumpers, and not the later plastics, so the gaps are not the same, as well the angle of the curve at the ends of the bumper.

So just in parts you are at a couple grand if you go with the new sheet metal (which if you're this far in to a project you really should be.)

In the end, yes, you'd be better off to just find an early shell and use it.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Anyone else get bothered when people say rear fenders... 1/4 panels bro. They are 1/4 panels