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Yet another M30 E30 amongst your ranks. WHATS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A PORCUPINE AND

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    #46
    Good to see another automotively insane forum goer :D

    There's another on here too, or e30tech. Has a white M-tech 1 IIRC.

    It's funny, the P.O. of my car had a wheel-off in the front driver's side at a track event! Thankfully it was at around 10mph in the grass, and the only damage was to the fender.

    I LOVE the sound of BMW's 12v inline sixes, so be sure to get some good soundclips.

    I'll have to convince you to drive down for 2010's Import Alliance meet.

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      #47
      I have no idea what this Import Alliance thing you speak of is, but a quick google makes me believe you're interested in the Honder rather than the E30. I don't know about the whole JDM scene honestly, and the only thing done to the s2 is RE-11s so I'm not sure it'd really fit in well.

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        #48
        Is anyone rather disappointed with the performance gained in this swap? I took it out with someone else driving my Honda, and the Honda walked it pretty well. I'm not saying it should be able to beat it, but I figured it'd be at least a little closer considering the numbers.

        In all actuality the bimmer should be about 100-200 lbs lighter (2657lb stock curb weight, added weight of larger engine but no A/C components, Honda weighs 1275kg = 2805lbs) and the horsepower differences aren't astronomical (Honda F20C rated at 237 crank hp, Bimmer M30B34 rated at either 192hp or 218hp for the year)

        I realize the gearing is definitely a factor, with the Honda at a 4.10 final drive and a very close ratio 6sp (unsure on the E30's final drive), but most of that is because the powerband is absolutely nonexistant until 6000rpm (we're talking peak torque at 85ft*lbs until 6k)...

        The BMW definitely has some torque, but it feels rather anemic even in the middle of it's powerband. Such are the woes of a SOHC I suppose.

        I dunno, I'm rambling at this point, but it just feels like there should be more. I suppose I'll check the afr, manifold vacuum, and fuel pressure here pretty soon to see if I'm having problems or something.

        Anyone care to clue me in onto something I'm missing here? I haven't driven a 1.8L or 2.5L E30 so I guess I can't gauge the difference in the swap effectively or something.

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          #49
          Like you said, check for vacuum leaks. Also look into picking up a chip, by all accounts chips really wake up the m30. I couldn't say because mine was chipped from the start, but I will say that it was loads better than my old m20.

          You have to realize that a lot of the people doing this swap are coming from leaky 200k+ mile m20's (like I did), m10's or m42's. The difference in those is significant.

          Besides, it's a different engine altogether from the Honda. The m30 is a torque monster. It's not a high revving high horsepower motor.

          I suggest driving it a little bit more and picking up a chip. If it's still not enough turbo it, watch good & tight's videos if you need inspiration.
          Originally posted by LJ851
          I programmed my oven to turn off when my pizza was done, should i start a build thread?

          Feedback

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            #50
            Before you do the chip... dyno it!
            Find out EXACTLY what you're putting down. You might be surprised.
            If it dynos moderately close to "stock" numbers (stated hp from BMW minus say 15-20%), THEN chip it.
            Slicktop City!

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              #51
              Welp, currently 4 $0.23 tabs the dealer is taking a week to get are stopping me from using Oliver as a DD. The tabs that hold the blower motor firewall access broke, thus making it impossible to gain heat above 50mph, as the cold air from the engine bay is cooling off my heater core.

              I'm currently driving 2 hours each way in my 44k mile S2000 sitting on basically brand new (not anymore oh god) Potenza RE-11s...

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                #52
                So, sort of updates.

                I replaced all the stupid tabs and we're still leaking through the firewall, though not nearly as bad. I drove it the 2 hours to Brembo this morning and only had to take 1 heat break! (the other one was given to me by a traffic jam) Looks like part of my problem is the matting on the firewall missing chunks where the bottom of that access panel mates up. Also the grommet for the main harness isn't connected in there right, and it looks like I'm also getting air from the heater hose throughput.

                Any other possible places of entry I should check? I'm going to get it up on a hoist after work and check it out further from there.

                If updates seem slow, it's because I'm living in 3 different places currently, the least frequented and furthest from work being the one place I can store all my tools.

                Also, might as well type up a to do list. It's roughly in order of importance (to me)

                DONE! -Firewall hole issue argh
                -hook up washer system (in process)
                -diag ABS inop
                -HELLA 4000s! (about to order)
                -check/reroute all vacuum lines
                -diag horn inop
                -rewire engine fan/HVAC clusterfuck
                -diag speedo/tach inop & replace cluster bulbs
                -AUDIO (missing head unit, then broken antenna, then missing rear speakers)
                -diag LR window/auto door lock inop
                -diag what the fuck is wrong with the driver's door... it's mounted funny and howls in the wind
                -passenger connecting rod for seat adjust is missing
                -glovebox/interior tidbits, never finished installing/cleaning up
                Last edited by Adiabatic; 12-10-2009, 06:13 PM.

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                  #53
                  No ideas on other possible leaks through the firewall?

                  I also noticed there should be a gasket on this access panel, and there apparently lacks one currently. I probably need that.

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                    #54
                    It looks like the lack of heat is due to my water temp being just above the blue. I swapped thermostats thinking the old one was stuck open, but it went to the exact same place on the water temp gauge, just above blue. Any thoughts?

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                      #55
                      It's fixed! (sort of)

                      The temp gauge is still reading just above blue, but I think that's due to the sender being funky. I'll look into it later.

                      The heat was due to the heater hoses being reversed. Simple as that.

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                        #56
                        My temp gauge was always fucked up too. I'd be driving along, taking a second to glance at the cluster and OH MY FUCKING HOLY GOD SHIT MY TEMP GAUGE IS ALL THE WAY UP MY POOR M30 JESUS CHRIST MONKEY BALLS

                        But one day I just punched the cluster and it popped back to below half. So every time after that I would just punch it.

                        I just picked up a black 4 door, and will be swapping an m30 into it. Did you ever dyno?
                        Originally posted by LJ851
                        I programmed my oven to turn off when my pizza was done, should i start a build thread?

                        Feedback

                        Comment


                          #57
                          I have not, and don't think I honestly ever will unless I turbo it.

                          I will say the torque is nice at low RPM but you can practically hear it gasping for air at higher revs. That being said, I freaking love this thing and feel like a 70s businessman every time I drive it.

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