1986 325e M50B25: Relays not powering on

[xwill112x]

Not to ground. I have had several swaps come in the shop and they hook the B+ to the shock tower ground. B+ obviously goes to battery, the distribution block works or in the case of t
he last swap (cabrio) on the battery post.

Thanks for this info, i didnt see it covered anywhere and im glad i didnt turn key etc...Gonna have to redo some stuff now.

[ForcedFirebird]

Thanks for this info, i didnt see it covered anywhere and im glad i didnt turn key etc...Gonna have to redo some stuff now.

Glad to help. For a minute I thought you were being a wise guy lol. It's not covered often and it's a common mistake.

[TopOfTheLine89]

May have found this thread too late. I am getting no power to the fuel pump relay terminal 30. Also have a red wire from the e36 harness that is labeled fuse power but i already have power to the fuses or at least most fuses(not sure if all would be active).

[MaxBell]

There's the fuse box that goes to positive, then their is a big wire and I think two littler wires from the E36 harness that get positive. There's really only the one wire that's close to the DIAG connector and the engine ground that get grounded.

[joecassie]

yeah i cant get my fuel pump to start ether i grounded every thing my fuse dosent even get power ether!!!!!!!!

[SwiftE30]

There's the fuse box that goes to positive, then their is a big wire and I think two littler wires from the E36 harness that get positive. There's really only the one wire that's close to the DIAG connector and the engine ground that get grounded.

^^This is what you should go off of.

[MaxBell]

yeah i cant get my fuel pump to start ether i grounded every thing my fuse dosent even get power ether!!!!!!!!

Your battery connects via that long cable to the terminal in the passenger side of the engine bay. Then the fuse box connects to that with two wires that come out of the side of it. That should pretty much give the box power.

Are your fuses blown?

[joecassie]

no i put new ones in and ever thing i copyed what you did with the wiring and notinhg the started works and thats it

[cormier]

Sorry to revive an older thread--OP, what did you figure out about this?

I had the EXACT same problem when I tried to fire my swap last night. I was also under the impression that key "on" was supposed to close the relay. I also jumped it manually and got fuel spewing out of the rail. I didn't get a chance to take a good look at it, but I figured that I had electrical problems coupled with a REALLY bad o-ring or maybe hole in the rail...

From reading this -- could our jumping the relay without cranking the motor cause a pressure build up and leak? or do I actually have a bad O-ring :S

Also, how did you get your relay to work? was it related to the Main (DME) relay or the DME itself at all?

Sorry, I hate troubleshooting electrical but since we seem to have had the exact same problem figure I'd revive this thread

[yahh]

Hey guys i'm having this same problem. What was the solution you guys had?

[M///BMW]

Bump.

[yahh]

My problem was just a missing ground. Checked over everything and added an additional ground strap and it was good to go.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 4

[Mr.SWISS]

Sorry to revive an older thread--OP, what did you figure out about this?

I had the EXACT same problem when I tried to fire my swap last night. I was also under the impression that key "on" was supposed to close the relay. I also jumped it manually and got fuel spewing out of the rail. I didn't get a chance to take a good look at it, but I figured that I had electrical problems coupled with a REALLY bad o-ring or maybe hole in the rail...

From reading this -- could our jumping the relay without cranking the motor cause a pressure build up and leak? or do I actually have a bad O-ring :S

Also, how did you get your relay to work? was it related to the Main (DME) relay or the DME itself at all?

Sorry, I hate troubleshooting electrical but since we seem to have had the exact same problem figure I'd revive this thread

You didn't get your injectors properly seated or you tore an o ring upon installation.


No power to main relay folks-

Follow what FF said, peel back the black heat shrink and look at wire colors.

You should have the original E30 cable for you starter and fuse box power.
Use the power block to power the red eyelet on the e36 harness conveniently located on the battery tray. Ground eyelet goes to strut tower ( or any body ground if using M3 firewall covers).

power wire from alternator goes on starter and be sure you swap the ground swap from drivers side to pass side so you have cranking.

Use a test light or meter to verify you have power where you need it! No check engine light with key in position 2 means dme no power on.

On my first swap I had no power to DME relay, traced wire all the way to dist block, I had the red eyelet on the MOUNT stud of the dist block, no 12v+ there lol.

[Second325]

On my first swap I had no power to DME relay, traced wire all the way to dist block, I had the red eyelet on the MOUNT stud of the dist block, no 12v+ there lol.

I made the same mistake with the putting the red power on the dist block. Thanks for mentioning it as you saved me a ton of time!