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M50tu sudden Powerloss *SOLVED*

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    M50tu sudden Powerloss *SOLVED*

    Hey guys, my M50tu suddenly had a bad power-loss. 2nd Gear pulls like 5th!!!

    Problem SOLVED Post #24
    updated 8/13/14

    Symtopms:
    Car has NO power, like extremely retarded timing, and/or extreme Rich/Lean conditions. Engine fires smoothly.

    New theory: Very Retarded Ignition ...engine/car smells super hot after just a few test runs, the exhaust is mega hot (than normal)

    What can cause the stock 413 DME to retard timing so insanely?


    What I have currently done: update 8/6/14

    -Fuel flow is verified good = FPR was replaced with a known working one, fuel filter replaced, flow checked at rail was normal, return line flow was dynamic with throttle. Injectors are getting 13.5v power supply.

    -MAF was replaced with 4 known working ones. Car idles just fine, car runs smooth, no inherent misfires or bad timing, just seriously down on power.

    -Double checked all vacuum connections, everything seemed OK. Even if there was a small leak, that unmetered air should be minuscule at 3K RPM plus....

    -Pulled the plugs; PICS to follow

    -Car failed Emissions with elevated levels of Hydrocarbon, indicating rich conditions (plugs say otherwise!)

    -Crank Position Sensor is tightly mounted

    -Vanos stuck at retard? IDK, I took the car in 2nd gear through the revs, and at 5-6.5k RPM the power did not get any better, can I conclude Vanos is OK?

    -Cam Sync replaced and still Nada

    -Unplugged TPS, MAF, Knock Sensors one at a time, same problem persist


    Background:
    M50tu stock w/ 413 DME (stock)
    Swap has been running strong and fine for 20K miles.
    This happened after installed a charcoal canister, but I uninstalled the same night, problem did not go away. (Reason for install was emissions test)


    Thanks for your time and help!
    -San

    - - - Updated - - -




    Last edited by Tchao; 08-13-2014, 08:30 PM. Reason: Update

    #2
    Updated
    Last edited by Tchao; 08-04-2014, 12:40 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      Confused, is the fuel vent valve hooked up and pulling a vacuum on your gas tank?

      Comment


        #4
        updated
        Last edited by Tchao; 08-04-2014, 12:40 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          updated
          Last edited by Tchao; 08-04-2014, 12:40 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Ok, finally posted pics, and updated what Ive done.

            Any brain storm ideas welcomed!

            Thanks,
            -San

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Tchao View Post
              Car has NO power,
              Car idles just fine, car runs smooth,
              Engine has no power, engine idles just fine, engine runs smooth. I know you are not a noob.

              Bosch +4 are not recommended. You should use original two prong spark plug, prongs protrude more into the combustion chamber. With a good quality scanner you can monitor data in real time, there you can check for timing and how much ECU has to trim for fuel.

              Comment


                #8
                What I meant to convey is the engine is not mis-firing, therefore running smooth, just a total lack of power, like one would say put timing to 5 BTDC.
                This hints to me that it maybe a calibration problem, like a bad maf telling the DME 1/2 the amount of air in reality. But Ive replaced the MAF with 4 others! Nada.

                I dont think the DME can retard timing that far out of spec, correct me if Im wrong.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Any codes?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yes, just the same code it always has, 1221 EGO sensor. Its been missing the O2 sensor since day 1. SHe runs a tad bit on the richer side, but with 115F heat here in AZ, its a good thing.
                    Ive unplugged the ECU for a few hours to reset it, still the same driving behavior with no codes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Try unplugging the following one at a time and driving it to see; I had a bad cam position sensor and it drove like craptastic. Car only needs water temp sensor and crank position sensors to fire up and idle

                      #1 Knock sensor comes to mind
                      #2 afm or its wiring ( so drive with it unplugged)
                      #3 perhaps tps?
                      OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                      Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                      Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Unplugged the MAF and TPS already, no real change.

                        Knock sensors will be unplugged here shortly, just waiting for it to cool down, its like 106F outside right now.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Nope, not the knock sensors either.
                          Errrrrrr

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Can you change dme or tune. Or even easier just diconnect battery and let any ecu learn go and see how it acts

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Disconnected the DME after every "fix" I did just to make sure it starts from scratch. Nada.

                              I think I found the problem, my Cam Sync reads 6-million Ohms....Bentley states 540 ohms.
                              I searched the forums to for bad cam sensor and saw other people's problems were similar to mine. Ill pick up another from the yard tomrw and report back. **Fingers crossed**

                              Comment

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