318is M60 swap

[Old city bimmer]

you have patience's. I would have pulled out the grinder by now and cut it off...lol

[LoneWolf]

you have patience's. I would have pulled out the grinder by now and cut it off...lol

Thanks. Been doing some reading on best way to remove it. There is one way of using a hammer....that will be satisfying haha.



So I haven't heard back from Garret yet about the hydroboost drawings. No big deal though, I just needed the measurements on the arms. That I can do, really only wanted the drawings for documentation once everything is in, some parts would be hard to measure once installed. Took some measurements and drew up a couple quick templates in CAD. Hoping to get to the plasma cutter this week so I can continue work this weekend.

[dirty30]

engine looks way too far forward and crooked in the bay

[Old city bimmer]

engine looks way too far forward and crooked in the bay

nah...its just your computer monitor. tap it on the side and it should fix it. :D

[LoneWolf]

Did some work this weekend. Need to take some more pics.

I was able to get the steering column and pedal box out. I turned out the best method was a hammer on the steering column collar. The plastic bushing are not in a hole but instead a slot. Couple whacks with a hammer and the column was in my lap.


Also cut out some plate for modifying my pedal box. Currently have it tacked together but no pics yet. Took care of the linkage modification at the firewall but need to work on the brake link to the pedal. And of course work out the master cylinder relocation. Once I do that I will post some pics of the pedal box.

[sticksdaman]

Nice work!

Did you have to remove the dash to get the column out? Im going to be tackling this soon myself.

[LoneWolf]

Nice work!

Did you have to remove the dash to get the column out? Im going to be tackling this soon myself.

Nope I didn't pull the dash. Remove the one bolt connecting the column to the pedal box. Then just a hammer on the mount of the column and it slides out of the slotted mounts. Then I removed those coned bolts.

Been too cold for me to be in the garage. once its back in the 30's I will get back at it.

[johnp2]

Stop watching Gilmore Girls and update this thread (or finish the car).

[euro2fast4u]

Stop watching Gilmore Girls and update this thread (or finish the car).

Lulz,

Bump!!!!

[LoneWolf]

Engine mount take two. I will grab some pics of the mounts later.



Still messing with the brake pedal linkage. I've ditched the hydroboost set up, the m60 dohc heads are more of a space hog than an lsx swap.

[LoneWolf]

Stop watching Gilmore Girls and update this thread (or finish the car).

It's no 7th heaven bro.

[LoneWolf]

No real progress. I've spent the last two weeks moving. moved the car today.

Put some of the pieces back in for the move, core support, fenders hood, steering column and linkage.

Engine is in on new mounts with much help from my buddy.

Did a test fit of the radiator for comparison.


Car is in its new home. But I plan on taking the next two weeks getting organized and settled in.

[LoneWolf]

Spent some time in the garage this weekend. Looking around to get my driveshaft made.

Planning to chop back into that strut tower and make up the linkage and brake booster braces. Plus I want to grind out the rivnuts from the hydroboost set up. Still need to list that stuff for sale....

[LoneWolf]

Got back to tinkering with the pedal box. The 740/540 vacuum brake booster set up is in, but still need to finish the bracing to the inner fender.



Ignore the dash bolt holding the brake linkage together, just using it to temporarily see the travel of everything. I picked up a few 10mm 10.9 bolts, might have access to a lathe and turn one into a 10mm clevis pin. Unless I find metric clevis pins somewhere.

Cut out the original part where the clutch master cylinder mounted and saved it thinking I would just use it as a template for the spacing of the holes.

Instead, trimmed it up, and welded it to the far left edge of the modified pedal box.



I'll probably put a couple small gussets on it to prevent flexing.

Now I just need to decide how I want to get my clutch pedal to clear. Checked a few other swaps and a swap guide. Seems like most people just trim the interfering part of the clutch pedal out and call it good.

I thought, maybe just shifting the pedal above the interfering point over 1/4" or so. Just not sure about the pedal spacing then.





Packed out the original brake linkage clevis pin/return spring point with some washers for now. If the lathe thing can happen I would like to trim it down too.

[LoneWolf]

I've pulled the firewall rubber insulation. Any input on whether I should keep it? A lot is stuff has been relocated, so it has its pretty carved up.

Thinking I should cut away the screw studs, leave it out, and just dynamat the interior.

Opinions?