Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Strange M52 E30 Problem - Help for a BJ

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    Strange M52 E30 Problem - Help for a BJ

    Done me swap, the car runs sweet no issues apart from this strange problem where the car will only do it some times. It won't run.

    Took the injectors out and they don't seem to be pulsing when this issues going on. I got this weird blow back through the intake when I tried to start it today. Also the fuel pump kept on whirring like it wasn't getting any fuel but had plenty. Sometimes it would whirr constantly and other times I turned the key on it would prime itself then stop like normal. On other random occurrences when turning the key on the injectors would squirt suddenly as soon as the key turned on... Im guessing thats what the blow back was, as the valves would be shut and the pressure from the injectors had no where to go but vent back through the air filter.

    Im guessing its a bad connection some where and ive heard that you shouldn't solder the wires on theses, is that true? as I have soldered just about every splice.

    Best answer gets a BJ
    Tags: None
    #2
    Running OBD2?

    Check Us out on Facebook
    Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
    Full Product Line Tuning
    OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

    Comment

      #3
      Yes I am but I can't scan the thing its been a debacle

      Comment

        #4
        Do you have access to another DME that you know is good? That would be where I would start, there are a lot of "bad DME" issues around here.

        Comment

          #5
          Agree, if you have another DME you can try go for it. I had a very similar issue with a previously water logged DME. Car would run amazing then for no reason just die.
          Thank god, R3V was getting boring since the ginger kid wrecked his car. - Stonea

          Comment

            #6
            Cam sensor is done. Turn ignition on, and grab cam sensor wire and jiggle. I bet all the injectors pulse. Those cam sensor wires rot the insulation on the inside under the shielding where you cant see it. If in dooubt take a razor and peel the wires back.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by mpowerful View Post
              Cam sensor is done. Turn ignition on, and grab cam sensor wire and jiggle. I bet all the injectors pulse. Those cam sensor wires rot the insulation on the inside under the shielding where you cant see it. If in dooubt take a razor and peel the wires back.
              You know what I think I could kiss you. I wiggled the wire around and the car started. Seems to be the issue, from what you said is the sensor itself done or just the wiring though? I didn't have time today to take my intake off and deal with the wiring so couldn't check it yet.

              I tried an extra computer and no change. Hopefully its just this cam angle niggly! Thanks so much

              Comment

                #8
                The wiring is completely rotted inside. Only way to fix it is to replace the cam sensor. Also should be able to easily replace it without pulling thw manifold. Just reach under the intake to unplug it. Then remove the vanos solenoid and or vanos oil line at the vanos unit side. This will give you access to the 4 or 5mm allen that holds it in. Should take 10 mins or less to change.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by mpowerful View Post
                  The wiring is completely rotted inside. Only way to fix it is to replace the cam sensor. Also should be able to easily replace it without pulling thw manifold. Just reach under the intake to unplug it. Then remove the vanos solenoid and or vanos oil line at the vanos unit side. This will give you access to the 4 or 5mm allen that holds it in. Should take 10 mins or less to change.
                  Worth it to change the Crank Position Sensor too?

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Ive not seen the crank sensor rot the wires the same way. Doubtful it needs to be replaced

                    Comment

                    Previous template Next
                    Working...
                    X