This is awesome. I'm going to be teaching myself how to wed soon enough. If it fails miserably I'll invest in a class. My older sister welded professionally for a bit then changed gears and moved out to the west coast but left all of her welding gear at my parents. So I think it's about time I put it back to good use!
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I love tig. Finally got the machine fixed at work, so I'm using it every chance I get.Attached FilesNo E30 ClubOriginally posted by MrBurgundyComment
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Built this out of 2x2 square tube. I just migged it.
Sent from my XT1575 using TapatalkSi vis pacem, para bellum.
New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
Defunct (sold): Alta Vista
79 Bronco SHTF BuildComment
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Who has welded 2 cans together? I've tried a couple times but failed miserably.No E30 ClubOriginally posted by MrBurgundyComment
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Takes lots of practice, clean them very good and make sure you have a good ground! Also start your ark over the filler rod because the hf start will blow through the cans. I usually set the welder around 30 amps and go light on the peddle.Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0 View Post
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Thank you, I'll try that out! Need to get my own machine, but luckily my employer encourages me to mess around with the welder when things are slow! Makes it easy to keep myself busy.No E30 ClubOriginally posted by MrBurgundyComment
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So, I just started learning how to mig weld at work recently, and my biggest problem is keeping my welds straight and not leaky. Sometimes, I bust through the exhaust piping and have to patch and weld over, or gas weld any leaks shut.
Do any of you have some good advice for a beginner?
"Leafeon" '92 Lagunengrun 325i Vert (Daily Driver/Project)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=366044
The stickers make it go faster. :nice:Comment
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For mig welding thin exhausts ive found doing short bursts tacks all they way around. Like 1-2sec tact then pause then overlap the next tact by about 50%. Works for me but everyone is a bit different, hope that helps.Originally posted by UlrichFennec View Post
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I am discovering that wire speed and heat levels are absolutely critical. I know that's an obvious statement, but you just can't throw the recommended setting on and run with it.
Sent from my XT1575 using TapatalkSi vis pacem, para bellum.
New Hawtness: 1995 540i/6 Claptrap
Defunct too: Cirrusblau m30 Project
Defunct (sold): Alta Vista
79 Bronco SHTF BuildComment
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Work asked if I wanted to take a shot at this cast aluminum. Not one to turn down an opportunity, I went for it.
I'm happy with the results, first time. Definitely had to learn an entire new technique on this one.
Attached FilesNo E30 ClubOriginally posted by MrBurgundyComment
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I feel like my old auto-darken helmet isn't providing much (if any) protection, so it's time to buy a new one. I'm just doing the occasional exhaust patch or other small random stuff, so I don't need a professional helmet. That being said, I plan to buy one helmet to use it for years and don't want my eyes to feel itchy after welding.
Anyone have any suggestions? This HF helmet is going to be $43. Is that a good idea, or being risky with my eyes?sigpic
1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]Comment
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Most auto darken helmets have an adjustment, is it turned all the way up? Also, sometimes they have to sit in the sun for a bit to fully charge, the sensor can be dirty, or the back up batteries need replacement. Mine usually last many many years - that being said, I have been using the HF hoods for years.Originally posted by McGyver View Post
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It's got great reviews.. I'm actually interested in one now...
Mine is taking forever to switch from light to dark, and it's super annoying...
Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP
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