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Blown fuse from rolling down same side of the window?

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    Blown fuse from rolling down same side of the window?

    Hey guys, for some reason my windows fuses keep going out.

    If I roll down the drivers and passengers at the same time, it doesn't blow.

    But!

    If I roll down the passenger front and rear windows, it blows. Any ideas?

    #2
    Is one of the windows slower than the other? My guess is one motor is overloading the circuit. Lube the tracks.
    2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by tomstin View Post
      Is one of the windows slower than the other? My guess is one motor is overloading the circuit. Lube the tracks.
      Now that you bring it up, it is a bit slower. I will try that and report back. Thanks!

      Comment


        #4
        You should be able to lower all four windows without blowing a fuse, so lube the tracks and you may want/need to clean the brushes on the motor itself too.
        Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

        Elva Courier build thread here!

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          #5
          it sounds like your passenger rear window motor may be on its way out. When motors age, they draw more current than normal, which is what's causing your fuse to blow

          try to make sure it's the rear passenger by trying different combinations of windows together


          it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
            You should be able to lower all four windows without blowing a fuse, so lube the tracks and you may want/need to clean the brushes on the motor itself too.
            Thanks for the reply!

            Originally posted by Das Delfin View Post
            it sounds like your passenger rear window motor may be on its way out. When motors age, they draw more current than normal, which is what's causing your fuse to blow

            try to make sure it's the rear passenger by trying different combinations of windows together
            Damn... I guess I should start getting a new motor ready. Do you know if motors are the same for the cabrio/coupe/sedan?

            Comment


              #7
              ^ I don't know if they are. But before you buy definitely try to isolate that window in particular as having a fault. And if you can, source a new motor from a junkyard to save money

              Might also be worth your time to try a new switch, or move the switches around to find one that consistently blows. Do all this to justify the purchase so you know it's going to fix the problem


              it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

              Comment


                #8
                I had another thought. You didn't mention the year, but as I recall the early models (like I have) the power window track is a tube with a spine going through it and they tend to get gummed up.

                First I would spray some silicone on the tracks you can see. If that doesn't help you will need to remove the door card, disconnect the motor and remove the track. It takes a LOT of patience to get the track out of the door. I'm sure there is a how-to online. The motor comes off with three screws on a plate. Make sure that spine moves freely through the tube. If all that moves freely, then you motor is showing its age. There is another post someplace on cleaning the motor contacts.
                2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

                Comment


                  #9
                  If yours hasn't been maintained in a while, the tracks are probably dry as a bone. Use silicone lube and soak the tracks until they soften up and move smoother. If it's been a long time you might even use a whole can to get all four windows.

                  For the mechanisms and motors, mine were seized up. I hit them repeatedly with lots of PB blaster (and a hammer), they freed up and work pretty well now. If I don't use them for a while they still tend to stick, but holding the button and hitting a bump in the road usually frees them up. I'll probably hit the motors with some electronics cleaner spray and re-lube the mechanisms with silicone next time I have the door panels off.
                  Last edited by cscracker; 04-28-2017, 08:40 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tomstin View Post
                    I had another thought. You didn't mention the year, but as I recall the early models (like I have) the power window track is a tube with a spine going through it and they tend to get gummed up.

                    First I would spray some silicone on the tracks you can see. If that doesn't help you will need to remove the door card, disconnect the motor and remove the track. It takes a LOT of patience to get the track out of the door. I'm sure there is a how-to online. The motor comes off with three screws on a plate. Make sure that spine moves freely through the tube. If all that moves freely, then you motor is showing its age. There is another post someplace on cleaning the motor contacts.
                    Mine's a 1990, is that an early or late year?

                    Originally posted by cscracker View Post
                    If yours hasn't been maintained in a while, the tracks are probably dry as a bone. Use silicone lube and soak the tracks until they soften up and move smoother. If it's been a long time you might even use a whole can to get all four windows.

                    For the mechanisms and motors, mine were seized up. I hit them repeatedly with lots of PB blaster (and a hammer), they freed up and work pretty well now. If I don't use them for a while they still tend to stick, but holding the button and hitting a bump in the road usually frees them up. I'll probably hit the motors with some electronics cleaner spray and re-lube the mechanisms with silicone next time I have the door panels off.
                    Do you lube them by taking off the door panels, or just spraying down the sides?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      1990 is a late year.

                      You lube up the track by rolling down the window and spraying the slots on the sides, but if your mechanism is crusty too, you'd take off the door panels to get to it. Start with the track, see what kind of results you get, if you still have trouble, then remove the door panels and check out the motors and the mechanism. Be very liberal with it, soak them, roll the window up and down a few times, repeat until it moves fast again.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by cscracker View Post
                        1990 is a late year.

                        You lube up the track by rolling down the window and spraying the slots on the sides, but if your mechanism is crusty too, you'd take off the door panels to get to it. Start with the track, see what kind of results you get, if you still have trouble, then remove the door panels and check out the motors and the mechanism. Be very liberal with it, soak them, roll the window up and down a few times, repeat until it moves fast again.
                        Appreciate it!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just an update, I lubed them, and they are much smoother, but it seems the rear passenger window still blows a fuse. I will take it apart and then hose down the motors and mechanism with more lubricant later. Hopefully it will work!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by cspec View Post
                            then hose down the motors
                            Probably not a good idea. When you get the mechanism out, take the motor off and make sure the track itself is free. My guess is that is your issue. But, there is a post around someplace about how to take apart the motors and clean the contacts.
                            2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by tomstin View Post
                              Probably not a good idea. When you get the mechanism out, take the motor off and make sure the track itself is free. My guess is that is your issue. But, there is a post around someplace about how to take apart the motors and clean the contacts.
                              Could you elaborate what you mean by the track itself is free? Wouldn't it be free if I can roll the windows down? It just blows after two uses... Now one.

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