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Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30

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    Originally posted by 89325iturbo View Post
    It's only around 2 inches between the u joints. I went with a total length right around 9-1/4 inches. But that can change a little on how you mount the rack. Some put the spacers under the rack oppose to on top.
    I still haven't gotten an alignment either, but like I said it feels pretty good. I've driven cars with depowered power racks and its definately easier then that.
    I wouldn't want it if I was daily driving but as a second car it's fine.
    Now if I just get to the the alignment shop to get the slight shimmy out I'll be good.
    Yea I'm already planning to swap my Z4 rack out. Parallel parking is rough with this rack and I have to do it occasionally. I think an E46 rack will be an easy install though?

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      Brian7 you have a PM.
      Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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        Ugh. My z3 rack started blowing fluid out the driver side shaft. Made it about 3 years in snow and salt before I realized the boots were torn... 2 more years until seal was trashed.

        Now we have so many options and so little time/money!

        Originally Posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
        Someone needs to measure the total throw and mm per revolution so we can compare it to the rest of the swappable racks.

        per. turn------BMW Part #
        - E30--------------36.5 mm--------32 13 1 092 335
        - E30 M3-----------38 mm---------32 13 2 225 556
        - E36 M3 '95--------41 mm--------32 13 2 227 191 *NEW 08.15.11 Pink
        - E36---------------45.5 mm-------32 13 1 096 280
        - E36 M3 96+-------45.5 mm------32 13 1 096 280
        - E36 Z3 M---------45.5 mm-------32 13 1 096 280
        - E46 (9/99-4/01)--46 mm---------32 13 6 753 438 *NEW 08.15.11 Pink
        - E46 (4/01-9/01)--50 mm---------32 13 6 755 065
        - E85 Z4 M---------51 mm---------32 13 7 836 844
        - E36 Z3 non-M-----53.5 mm-------32 13 1 095 575
        You the real mvp. Except when I look on realoem it is giving me 32131092611 which supercedes 32131092031 for Z3 E36 (12/1994 — 06/2002). Am I drunk?

        32131096280 is what it gives me for the z3M and a 99 328i so it looks like that one is correct.

        Rockauto is listing a reman unit for a 97 z3 with pn {#32111139315, 32111139316, 32131092031, 32131092611, 32131093885, 32131095575} which is an interesting assortment of your list above, but includes the 575.

        Gunna crawl under my baby and see what the heck I actually put on there years ago. You can fart and change lanes so I assumed it was the z3 575. Without power assist it takes both hands to turn the thing around town. Nice to know there is a fluidless alternative.

        Comment


          Originally posted by e304me View Post
          I am running a z3 rack with no power steering, I think this may be better. The z3 rack was not made to have so much force going through the input shaft.

          the reason why I asked if it was and airbag car is because they use a different steering column, which has different splines on the shaft. Guess it may not be possible for airbag cars without custom work
          E30 airbag column side splines are 11/16-36. 11/16" diameter, 36 splines. Couldn't find this info ANYWHERE on the Internet but measured carefully and ordered this size u-joint from Flaming River and it's a perfect fit. Hope this info helps someone!

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            Do you need E36 inner AND outer tie rods, or just the E36 outer tie rods?

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              Originally posted by jph View Post
              Do you need E36 inner AND outer tie rods, or just the E36 outer tie rods?


              This is pretty well known with any e36 rack swap. Please read up on it
              OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

              Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



              Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

              Comment


                Here is my linkage - I wanted to keep the factory guibo.
                Made a stainless adaptor to go between the guibo and 3/4" DD hole in the U-joint.
                Car is EURO 1983.
                U-joint is 3/4" DD to 48 Spline from ebay.
                Attached Files
                My transaction feedback on r3vlimited :):Clickety click

                Comment


                  How do you like it?

                  I presume you wanted to retain the vibration or dampening function of the guibo or was it to give you some collapsibility?
                  Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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                    Originally posted by Bearmw View Post
                    How do you like it?

                    I presume you wanted to retain the vibration or dampening function of the guibo or was it to give you some collapsibility?
                    I have yet to drive it, need to refit the sump.
                    I kept the guibo because u-joint angles are far from perfect and I wanted to keep some telescoping action in it. For example ALL of the Vorshlag racing shafts have telescoping action. Car is a daily driver. Other thing - car had original guibo from 1983 and it was in perfect condition even after last 2 years with no power assistance with full force going thru it. And I can always replace it with a solid piece of aluminum later.
                    Here is how the finnished adapter looks.
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by raudonis; 09-13-2016, 07:56 AM.
                    My transaction feedback on r3vlimited :):Clickety click

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                      By chance did you make two of those?
                      Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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                        Originally posted by Bearmw View Post
                        By chance did you make two of those?
                        Sorry but I ordered only 1 unit, I still have my drawing thou. I could get a quote if you are interested. I had to mark and shorten the DD section in situ (it was about 1" longer in the beggining) and drill the dimples for U-joint bolts according to the marks left from the initial assembly.
                        My transaction feedback on r3vlimited :):Clickety click

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                          Sir you have a PM.
                          Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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                            What is the consensus on using the front or back rack mounting holes?
                            The fronts are supposed to be for a manual rack and the rear for a power rack at least that's what I read but have no idea what's actually preferred with this rack.
                            Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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                              what do you mean by front or back mounting holes?

                              I just picked up my z4 rack/coupling and cut it down length today. I've got it cut in a way that I can go as short as 9-1/4" or up to about 10-1/2" while keeping enough overlap for strength. I'll fit it in the car, tack it once I know the exact length and weld it solid after.

                              The rack I got feels a bit loose and with the boots off it looks pretty dry. I want to remove the rack itself and clean/lubricate it then adjust the lash/preload screw to put it back in oem spec before installing it in the car.

                              Has anyone dug into this job for one of these yet? It looks pretty simple but the only way I can see to remove the pinion is to clamp it solid in a soft jaw'd vice and lightly tap the housing away from it with a soft face dead blow. There is no circlip or good way to use a puller and the shaft does not go through to the bottom so I suspect this is really the only way. I've seen it adjusted before using a form of torque meter to know the perfect preload but don't know what the spec should be.
                              1990 332i, 4 door
                              2008 KTM 990 Superduke
                              2018 Golf R, 6spd manual (Pending delivery)
                              2017 Mazda CX-5 GT
                              2007 Z4M Coupe - Sold to very nice people

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                                I am referring to the holes in the subframe the rack bolts to.
                                Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. -Mark Twain

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