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    Reverse bleeding clutch

    I'm trying to reverse bleed my clutch to make sure I don't have air in the system but can seem to get fluid to go up into the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

    I had an oil can with brake fluid connected to the slave (which is out of the transmission but connected with the fluid line). I put a ruler in the brake reservoir to be able to tell if the fluid level goes up, pumped away with the oil can and nothing at all. It's almost like the oil can isn't strong enough to pump the fluid up. At one point I got a little bubble in the clear tube to the slave from the connection and could see it wasn't moving. I tried it with the clutch pedal fully up as well as an inch or so depressed, no luck either way. There isn't a check valve in the master or something is there? What am I doing wrong? Tomorrow I'm thinking of connecting the air compressor at like 20 lbs to a sealed cup with brake fluid and a tube dropped into it to see if that can force it up in there.

    #2
    Alot of people advocate the reverse bleeder method but ive had no issue bleeding it normally HOWEVER i've found you gotta take the slave off the gearbox to make sure that the bleeder nipple is pointing straight up to have the best chance of removing the air. You have to be careful as with the clutch slave unbolted you now don't have any force to push back on the pin, so if you pump the clutch with the bleeder closed you might asplode the clutch slave.

    open bleed, carefully depress clutch, close bleed, release clutch open bleed, carefully depress clutch, close bleed....

    Do that about 5-10 times or until you see a bunch of air come out. Bolt it back up to the gearbox and see what its like.

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      #3
      Thanks, I've tried the non-unbolted variation of that, maybe I'll try your unbolted method. I noticed you said you open the bleeder before pushing the clutch down? I always thought you push it down to build pressure before opening?

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        #4
        In my experience doesn't make alot, if any, difference. (probably bled 20 different cars over the years, with various oem and custom setups). Certainly not good practice to leave the bleeder open indefinitely, but i am usually under the car, crack the bleeder, yell to mate "ok push it 70% down", he yells back "its down", I close the bleeder. rinse and repeat.

        E30 the first car i've had to take the slave off the box, i think its just the way the slave is designed, more susceptible to trapping air perhaps. Who knows.
        Last edited by e30davie; 04-18-2017, 08:40 PM.

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          #5
          Use the largest medical syringe you can find and a piece of clear hose (I use 25ml). You will know the exact amount of fluid you are putting in. The only downside is you have to re-tighten the bleed screw a few times because syringe is not large enough to fill the whole clutch line with a single injection.
          My transaction feedback on r3vlimited :):Clickety click

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            #6
            Originally posted by raudonis View Post
            Use the largest medical syringe you can find and a piece of clear hose (I use 25ml). You will know the exact amount of fluid you are putting in. The only downside is you have to re-tighten the bleed screw a few times because syringe is not large enough to fill the whole clutch line with a single injection.
            Awesome idea, I found a 60 mL one in the automotive section of Walmart and used it to reverse bleed 3 times, shifting feels better now so I think the air is out! Thanks!

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