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    #16
    I have the tool and it makes the job 100 times easier. Granted for someone that just needs it once it kinda doesn't make sense to buy it.

    Let me know if you haven't rented one by now... I'm happy to rent it out to you.

    IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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      #17
      Originally posted by the_thryll View Post
      I bought the SIR tool from Pelican to loosen the crank bolt on my m42 too. In addition to the tool, make sure you have a rock-solid breaker bar and big-ass cheater bar before attempting this. Don't cheap out. My 3/4-inch drive, 40-inch Tekton breaker bar broke (metal drive sheared) when I put 4-ft cheater bar over it and tried (without success) to loosen the bolt.
      Impressive! Although this is probably the correct method, I might give the impact wrench a shot first.

      Originally posted by dude8383 View Post
      I have the tool and it makes the job 100 times easier. Granted for someone that just needs it once it kinda doesn't make sense to buy it.

      Let me know if you haven't rented one by now... I'm happy to rent it out to you.
      Thanks for the generous offer, but I am going to try and see if I can rent/borrow one locally first (someone should have one) and make a copy of it. I do plan on doing more work on the M42 in the future so having the tool long term makes sense. Also I noticed that you are in NYC and I am in Vancouver, Canada, After shipping both ways, I could probably buy the tool!

      Originally posted by uturn
      Double check where your oil leak is coming from. It's usually the gasket behind the lower assembly and not from the timing cover.
      Lets hope not!

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        #18
        Hi

        Any updates on this? I'm in Vancouver as well and planned on re-doing the timing case gaskets and lower/upper oil pan gaskets as well. If you don't mind can I come watch or something when you do perform the work.

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          #19
          Take a good look around the oil filter housing. Is it all wet with oil? It is VERY common for the O-rings on the outlet to leak and the oil gets EVERYWHERE. All over the front of the engine. It is commonly mistaken for an oil leak in the lower timing cover, or the front crank seal. It makes such a mess because that is one of the highest pressure locations in the lubrication system. Replacing the gasket and o-rings for the filter housing is a hell of a lot easier than pulling the timing cover. Just make sure that you clean all gasket surfaces to perfection (I will typically use acetone...wear gloves). That includes the round hole at the top, but make SURE not to knock any crud into there because that is the clean oil galley that goes into the engine, and crud will end up in a lifter or main bearing if it gets in there.

          I thought that my timing cover and oil pan were leaking, but after I replaced the gasket and o-rings for the filter housing a couple of weeks ago, I do not have a single drop coming off of the engine (versus small puddles after every trip). From the oily mess could see, it seemed like every single paper gasket on the engine was leaking...and it was all coming from one spot!

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            #20
            Yea I replaced the oil filter housing gasket just last month. It definitely helped and I haven't seen small puddles since. The area around the oil filter housing is dry now, but the front area(timing case) is still pretty wet.

            Winter is coming so I thought I'd take on this project over November/December, and prep it for track next year. I went for the first time this month, definitely a lot of fun. Didn't lose to much oil either but I guess my hands are itching to do something.

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              #21
              Haha well, an M42 timing case overhaul is definitely going to give your hands something to do...along with your arms, back, shoulders and neck! If you are going to be taking it all apart you might as well consider refreshing the timing components, especially if you want to track it. Also consider swapping in an E36 M42 timing case...it eliminates the stupid deflector sprocket (which is a time bomb in these engines) in favor of another plastic guide rail. It is a direct swap and will definitely improve engine reliability. Granted, getting the timing case in and out without removing the head is doable but a real pain.

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                #22
                Appreciate the tips. After reading a lot of different threads how come people don't put the car in 5th gear to hold the crank in place? I remember removing the crank pulley bolt in my s13 using this method.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by iPee View Post
                  Appreciate the tips. After reading a lot of different threads how come people don't put the car in 5th gear to hold the crank in place? I remember removing the crank pulley bolt in my s13 using this method.
                  You'll still turn the motor if you're just pulling on it with a breaker bar. I used a combination of putting it in gear and an impact gun.

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                    #24
                    The clutch will slip before the bolt breaks loose / gets properly re-torqued.

                    One more tidbit of info regarding the E36 M42 gasket. It looks like the PN may have changed, and the oil passage for the chain tensioner moved a little, so you will want to be sure to use the correct gasket if you update your timing case!

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by iPee View Post
                      Hi

                      Any updates on this? I'm in Vancouver as well and planned on re-doing the timing case gaskets and lower/upper oil pan gaskets as well. If you don't mind can I come watch or something when you do perform the work.
                      No updates yet, as I'm looking around for the crank bolt holder tool or will order it for October/November.

                      Originally posted by iPee View Post
                      Yea I replaced the oil filter housing gasket just last month. It definitely helped and I haven't seen small puddles since. The area around the oil filter housing is dry now, but the front area(timing case) is still pretty wet.
                      DO WE HAVE THE SAME CAR??

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                        #26
                        haha it is a pretty common problem. Sent you a pm, should meet up sometime, don't know too many e30 318is guys around here.

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                          #27
                          Someone willing to do a quick sketch and some measurements for the face of this tool? I currently have the car half tore apart and need this for the timing chain. Things are a lot different with the motor still installed lol

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                            #28
                            Nevermind I got the pulley apart

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                              #29
                              Did you manage to get te bolt off as well?

                              I just did this job on January 1st with the tool and it went well. Let me know if you have any questions and I can try and help you out the best I can.

                              Where are you located in Canada, if you need to borrow the tool I can rent it out to you.

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                                #30
                                Just wanted to say thanks to Gkwan, for lending me the tool worked out pretty nicely. I thought the crank bolt was going to the toughest part of the job, but turns out to be the waterpump pulley LOL. Part of the waterpump cracked but it's still stuck on the engine good.

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