My turbo 24v alpine coupe

[mitchlevy7]

In my attempt to clean the manifold today, I put it in our giant blaster at work. Its like a sand blaster but with a different kind of shot that really cleans up parts.

After taking it out, I found something real bad







Turns out one of the runners was cracked at the collector. Its cracked all the way around and I would have to completely take apart the manifold to fix it. Also, the t4 flange was warped. The guy who built it welded studs in, so I would have to cut the studs off, sand it flat and redrill the t4 pattern in. He also mig welded some of the holes from his crappy welding shut and didnt use any filler metal on the runners, hence the cracking. 500 bucks down the drain. Bought the thing like 5 years ago so I don't think I can get my money back.

Good news is I got my first chance to weld sch 10 piping. Got a few good beads down.



Going to continue to use the piece to practice welding. Sch 10. SS is expensive, so why waste it?

Most likely going with a RSI/Good and tight manifold at this point. Its proven itself. This means I can't put the motor in until I save up enough to buy the new manifold. Also means I need to modify the downpipe, which needed a new v-band anyways as I warped the last one.

[Poopie]

That manifold is toast. They didn't back purge at all and way to much undercut on the welds. Its only a matter of time before a piece of the sugaring on the backside breaks off and takes out the turbine blade. Good call replacing it.

[mitchlevy7]

That manifold is toast. They didn't back purge at all and way to much undercut on the welds. Its only a matter of time before a piece of the sugaring on the backside breaks off and takes out the turbine blade. Good call replacing it.

Yes! Theres tons of sugaring. Look on page 8 for the inside view of the collector. It looked like it leaked or cracked before I even got it and they hit it with a mig (without gas based on the insane amount of spatter)

I was able to see the inside of the welds I did and there was little to no sugar with no backpurge, however, once I do my own manifold it will be backpurged. I backpurged the downpipe as well.

I think the undercut was because he didn't use filler.

I really want to make a billet collector based manifold, but its just not in the cards financially or to meet my timeline (to finish by h20i now).

[Poopie]

Are there any cast collectors for a 6 cylinder? I used a treadstone 4 runner collector for my audi.

[mitchlevy7]

Are there any cast collectors for a 6 cylinder? I used a treadstone 4 runner collector for my audi.

CXracing makes one for 6 cyl t3/t4 but theres no wastegate provision, which i guess would work if I went EFR

Billet is so cool

http://www.rawfab.com/rawfab-billet-turbo-collector-twin-scroll-6-runner-t4-1-25-prime-dual-1-5-wg/

[mitchlevy7]

My GnT/RSI manifold made it in this week.



Today I blasted it in our signature "titan finish". It strengthens the welds and gives it a nice uniform finish.



I also put my mtech 1 wing together and put it on (or e28 technically)



Spent a decent amount of time working on the engine bay wiring. I deleted the ABS so I finished taking all that wiring out as well as the wheel speed sensors. I unwrapped all the wiring, cleaned it, took out some unneeded crap and I am about to put it back together with friction tape.

[mitchlevy7]

Another day of work complete

Also got a few things done this week too.

Welded up a new V-band on the turbo housing because the other one leaked and was shit. This interlocks and it is stainless. Welded the inside and outside.



Outside was even worse because the ceramic coat was getting in and I only wanted to sandblast that area. I think it will hold up pretty good.

Cleaned the carpet on the inside of the car and it turned out pretty good. Eventually I want to take it out, take some padding off and all the sound deadening underneath and then put it back, or not.

I got the AKG stage 2 shifter installed and DSSR made by someone on this site, I forget the name, quality piece. At first I torqued the bolts too tight, and the shifting was terrible. Loosened them up to about 20ft/lbs and WOW! I'm not usually the guy to have a $450 shifter setup but this is worth every penny.

In their "instuctions" it says that there are 3 holes. There are 2 holes that needed to be punched out and one stud. I took off the stud with pliers and drilled out the hole and pounded the square part of the bolt in. Seems firm.



Tried to get the harness into the 318is harness covers. First try...NOPE

Then i went wire cutting. Lots of it.
Deleted:
-All the wires going from the DME to the C101 that are not used (A/c and stuff)
-O2 sensor wiring as well as relay
-diagnostic connector (Standalone FTW)
-other round connector on the harness
-MAF sensor wiring
-EVAP wiring

Will try to get it all in the harness next time I get a chance

Order from ECS on the way and thinking about getting some new headlights to compliment the front end.

[mitchlevy7]

terrible pic. Clear over the polish really dulled it but i think its worth it to keep them looking nice for years to come.

[mitchlevy7]

from last week





from today.

Finished sealing them this week. Did a layer of sealant. Let it dry for 3 days and then did another layer. Don't want to risk a leak.

Tires saturday I hope. Moving this week and work is crazy busy.

[CorvallisBMW]

Nice work on the welding! Looks beautiful :up:

[mitchlevy7]

Wheels are one. Buddy said the tires were a pain in the butt. Wouldnt seat because the sidewalls are so stiff. Didn't think the rears would look so bubbly but at the same time it looks super mean.

Going to need the flares I have sitting around.

got the uuc caliper on, one side stripped and they are sending me another one.

Form + Function. I think.

[mitchlevy7]

My coworker took a few legit pics













Coilovers are all the way up. I may try and pull the fenders before i start cutting for flares.

Should be working on it for most of next week.

[VitalkaE30]

Man, I love your build. Can you share the wheel/tire specs?

[mitchlevy7]

Man, I love your build. Can you share the wheel/tire specs?

fronts are 16x9, et 14 with a 12 mm spacer
225/45/16 Toyo R888

rear are 16x10 et 2
245/45/16

Thanks!

[Northern]

Surprised that the rears are that close to fitting. With the way 16x9 ET15 with 225 on my car looks, I wouldn't have imagined that had a single hope.

Looks meaty