Run out of options on this no start situation (solved)

[Sea Aych]

Also, do you smell fuel after cranking? We sure smelled it on mine after just four or five cranks where it was only just firing on a couple cylinders. It took close to 20 start attempts to get mine to finally run on 5 cylinders... that is the one in my thread with the video that I posted.

I am suspect you are not getting (or enough) fuel yet.

Open headers still? Wet at the header pipe exit from all these attempts at starting?

yup, i do smell gas, and i don't think i can hear the fuel pump priming. Relay issue?

[CrankYankers]

yup, i do smell gas, and i don't think i can hear the fuel pump priming. Relay issue?

I had this happen with my m50 swap. Check the wiring to the fuel and the dme to make sure that is correct. I believe we had a wire that was not connected or it was backwards. It fired right up after we fixed that issue.

[Sea Aych]

I had this happen with my m50 swap. Check the wiring to the fuel and the dme to make sure that is correct. I believe we had a wire that was not connected or it was backwards. It fired right up after we fixed that issue.

I'm using Nando's adapter, so i'm pretty positive it's all done correctly - if all else fails i'll take it apart and double check i guess, but i'd rather try everything else first.

-No fuel getting injected (plugs are dry, and no smell)
-No spark still
threw another engine ground in and that didn't make a difference
-Checked the injector ground and directly grounded it to the strut tower. made no difference.
-Swapped FP relays, no difference
-replaced a burnt fuse - no difference

@GDA, exhaust ports are dry

[DesertBMW]

This is very easy to diagnose if you had Snap on 2500(red brick) or solus diagnostic tool with BMW support.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

maybe I missed it before if it was already addressed, is everything getting power from a main power dist block? or have you retained the e30 original power block with a "main" large cable and a "smaller" separate cable?

if the power is coming from the original e30 block with separate blocks and large + small cables, check the fusible link in the trunk shortly after battery. This sounds very similar to a no start I had

if this info has been covered, my apologies - I skimmed the thread

[Sea Aych]

maybe I missed it before if it was already addressed, is everything getting power from a main power dist block? or have you retained the e30 original power block with a "main" large cable and a "smaller" separate cable?

if the power is coming from the original e30 block with separate blocks and large + small cables, check the fusible link in the trunk shortly after battery. This sounds very similar to a no start I had

if this info has been covered, my apologies - I skimmed the thread

I used the original fusebox and starter wiring from the e30. I removed the starter wire (2 ends that become 1 at the power block).

Fusible link looks good too.
Swapped the relays around just in case too, no dice.

EDIT: also found 1200ohms at the x6000 connector for the CPS so i know that's good

[rhE-30]

how's the compression and timing?

[Sea Aych]

how's the compression?

a-ok

Summary:

-CPS is good, reads correctly at DME x6000 connector too
-No Spark
-No Fuel injection
-Can smell fuel in bay after cranking
-Fuel pump won't prime
-Have power to fuel pump relay, still no start after swapping relays
-Can jump the fuel pump at the relay by bridging the pins (pump works and has power)
-all fuel-related fuses OK

-Fusible link OK
-C101 wiring done by nando's adapter
-engine grounds OK (added another just in case the first had gone bad, even though it looked good. no dice)
-i'm using original e30 starter and fusebox wiring (took the m50 ones out of the harness)
-main relay clicks on

-windows and blower don't work unless i jump the pins on the unloader relay (suspect it's a bad starter ground, but they still don't work when i ground the 30h wire directly)

[GDA]

a-ok

Summary:

-CPS is good, reads correctly at DME x6000 connector too
-No Spark
-No Fuel injection
-Can smell fuel in bay after cranking
-Fuel pump won't prime
-Have power to fuel pump relay, still no start after swapping relays
-Can jump the fuel pump at the relay by bridging the pins (pump works and has power)
-all fuel-related fuses OK

-Fusible link OK
-C101 wiring done by nando's adapter
-engine grounds OK (added another just in case the first had gone bad, even though it looked good. no dice)
-i'm using original e30 starter and fusebox wiring (took the m50 ones out of the harness)
-main relay clicks on

-windows and blower don't work unless i jump the pins on the unloader relay (suspect it's a bad starter ground, but they still don't work when i ground the 30h wire directly)

How is the E36 motor harness getting power if you have not connected the E36 harness power cable into the E30 fusebox?

[Sea Aych]

How is the E36 motor harness getting power if you have not connected the E36 harness power cable into the E30 fusebox?

mis-spoke, sorry - the power to the harness is still attached at the distribution block on the passenger side. harness has power


As well, i'm getting a power to fuse 11, but the pump won't prime, and doesn't sounds like it's on during cranking..
I think the residual fuel in the lines is from me testing the pump by jumping the relay.

I also tested almost 12 volts at quite a few DME pins at the x6000 connector

[e30austin]

Post a couple pictures of your power distribution block and your grounds and report back.

[Sea Aych]

Post a couple pictures of your power distribution block and your grounds and report back.

The two wires leaving the top of the distribution block are the e30 starter wire and the e30 fusebox wires (two turn into one).



This now is the second ground i added on the passenger side from the screw on the e36 mount arm to the body, just because i figured even though the driver's side regular ground looked fine, it may have not been. Made no difference

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I can't tell from the pictures if there is anything connected to the fusible link power terminal at the distribution block (if you already verified it gets power, than ignore me) but just fyi mine appeared to be fine visually, but was actually bad. 3 days later I eventually chased it down with a multimeter.

Regardless, good perseverance. You'll figure it out.

[Sea Aych]

I can't tell from the pictures if there is anything connected to the fusible link power terminal at the distribution block (if you already verified it gets power, than ignore me) but just fyi mine appeared to be fine visually, but was actually bad. 3 days later I eventually chased it down with a multimeter.

Regardless, good perseverance. You'll figure it out.

What do you mean connected to the fusible link power terminal? The small wire coming out of the left of the picture with the fat one is the one with the fusible link in the trunk. The wire from the harness should go there instead (it's currently attached to the underside of the distro block there, on the right side of it.).

[Sh3rpak!ng]

What do you mean connected to the fusible link power terminal? The small wire coming out of the left of the picture with the fat one is the one with the fusible link in the trunk. The wire from the harness should go there instead (it's currently attached to the underside of the distro block there, on the right side of it.).

I was asking if anything was attached to the "small wire" but it sounds like you have everything attached to the large power wire/terminal. Never mind.

Carry on.