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    Supercharged S52

    Hey folks,

    What needs to be modified about an e36 s/c kit in order to make it fit in an e30 engine bay? I'd like to turn up the power just a hair.

    I'd also assume headgasket and headstuds are recommended. Any other typical "protect the motor" mods?
    No antenna? I sell plugs!

    Here: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...77#post4937877

    #2
    charge pipes might need to be rerouted.
    https://www.facebook.com/BentOverRacing

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      #3
      looking at pictures of the AA kit in an e30 it seems to fit without much fuss. Really depends on whether you'll have an intercooler. That can get tricky depending on how you want to mount and route it
      '89 325i OBD2 S52 BUILD THREAD
      Shadetree30

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        #4
        I have a Dinan vortech kit with an RMS aftercooler. I removed the abs, converted to an early style coolant overflow bottle, pushed the radiator as far forward as possible and had the top inlet modified, cut a hole in the "shelf" right behind the headlight for the intake to pass through, cut a couple holes in the front valence to make the after cooler heat exchanger fit, found a thinner pulley for the sc belt tensioner (dinan one would be half-way in the radiator.) I have arp head studs and a new stock head gasket, running 14 psi and haven't had an issue. I also have a walbro 255 and a tune from Nick G at technique tuning.

        Comment


          #5
          Better off going turbo . Unless you get an amazing deal on an intercooled kit that fits. Without an intercooler/aftercooler it's going to heat soak, and make less power then stock. My 2 cents


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            #6
            Originally posted by DucDucSTFU View Post
            I have a Dinan vortech kit with an RMS aftercooler. I removed the abs, converted to an early style coolant overflow bottle, pushed the radiator as far forward as possible and had the top inlet modified, cut a hole in the "shelf" right behind the headlight for the intake to pass through, cut a couple holes in the front valence to make the after cooler heat exchanger fit, found a thinner pulley for the sc belt tensioner (dinan one would be half-way in the radiator.) I have arp head studs and a new stock head gasket, running 14 psi and haven't had an issue. I also have a walbro 255 and a tune from Nick G at technique tuning.
            This was super helpful, thanks.

            Originally posted by GG///M3 View Post
            Better off going turbo . Unless you get an amazing deal on an intercooled kit that fits. Without an intercooler/aftercooler it's going to heat soak, and make less power then stock. My 2 cents
            Thanks for your 2 cents but I'd go as far as to call that statement about making less power completely untrue, especially at boost levels at which most supercharger kits run. Lets keep this thread about supercharging.
            No antenna? I sell plugs!

            Here: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...77#post4937877

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Nick's e30 View Post
              This was super helpful, thanks.



              Thanks for your 2 cents but I'd go as far as to call that statement about making less power completely untrue, especially at boost levels at which most supercharger kits run. Lets keep this thread about supercharging.


              I've owned both , and the statements are fully correct. Research it


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                #8
                Originally posted by GG///M3 View Post
                I've owned both , and the statements are fully correct. Research it
                Owned a non aftercooled kit and an aftercooled kit?

                Let's all keep in mind this thread is not about turbocharging, so keep it that way. Reason being that my job moves could put me in California and I'd appreciate simple and complete reversibility for legal reasons.

                Thanks again.
                Last edited by Nick's e30; 11-14-2016, 07:49 AM.
                No antenna? I sell plugs!

                Here: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...77#post4937877

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by DucDucSTFU View Post
                  I have a Dinan vortech kit with an RMS aftercooler. I removed the abs, converted to an early style coolant overflow bottle, pushed the radiator as far forward as possible and had the top inlet modified, cut a hole in the "shelf" right behind the headlight for the intake to pass through, cut a couple holes in the front valence to make the after cooler heat exchanger fit, found a thinner pulley for the sc belt tensioner (dinan one would be half-way in the radiator.) I have arp head studs and a new stock head gasket, running 14 psi and haven't had an issue. I also have a walbro 255 and a tune from Nick G at technique tuning.
                  I have a Dinan v2 (vortech non after cooled) kit on my car as well but I have an m52 swap. Since you are starting with an s52 I'll skip all of the stuff I had to do to bolt the kit to an m52. I did all of what ducduc did but I am using a 6 rib pulley that is stock width. I converted to an e30 m3 mishimoto radiator and had to have a coolant temp bung welded on (m14x1.25). You will also have to fabricate mounts for this radiator and run custom coolant hoses. The advantage of the m3 radiator is the inlet and outlet are on the passenger side so you don't have to worry about your upper house getting tangled in the belts or supercharger. The radiator is smaller but cools the car just fine I only turn on the electric fan when I'm stop and go traffic. You will have to cut a hole in the shelf behind the headlight, that's where your MAF will have to sit. Your filter will be behind the valence in front of the drivers tire. You will want to make a shield so the tire doesn't throw crap on the filter. The hood will barely close with the Dinan v2 kit but it does close. PM me if you have any questions.

                  The radiator is the most pain in the ass part. Your upper hose connection will want to be exactly where the supercharger pulley sits.
                  PS TRM supplied my tune. I am obd1 swapped but they can do obd1 or obd2
                  Last edited by Ksbsn88; 11-14-2016, 08:57 AM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I've seen some choosing to run the M42 radiator. Did you debate that before settling on the e30 m3 radiator or did you decide that having the hoses entirely clear of everything was just for the best?

                    Sounds like I'll have to remove ABS and relocate coolant overflow, neither of which should be too difficult.

                    Did TRM just flash your DME with a supplied tune or did they work with you to tweak it at all?
                    No antenna? I sell plugs!

                    Here: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...77#post4937877

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I still have the factory coolant overflow, it's tight but it works. To be honest I could not find much info at all on 24v supercharger set ups in e30s and had no idea an m42 radiator would work. I can tell you it is nice having the hoses clear everything though. I would post some pictures of the setup if I could figure out how to.

                      TRM talked to me about everything I had done to the car and what my plans are with it. They then burnt me a chip to put into my Bosch 413 ecu. I just got the car running last night and driving for the first time and don't have a wide band on it yet but the plugs look good and it runs well. TRM told me if I put the car on a dyno and sent them all of the info they could tweek the tune for me but it seems to drive very well and pull hard (for a BMW).

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ah, I have done this exact thing.

                        For a more complete overview, review the build thread link that I have in my signature.

                        I will start off by saying that the improvement was incredible. Worth all of the headaches/expense.

                        I modified the drivers side 'shelf' in the engine bay by cutting a hole in it. Intake piping was fed through there.

                        I cut out a small section of the lower radiator support framing in order for my intercooler/piping to fit.

                        I recall using two 90 degree bends in lieu of two 45 degree connections due to the design of the kit.

                        Other than that it was pretty straight forward.

                        Again, my thread has pictures and a more step-by-step approach to this exact issue.

                        PM me with any questions.
                        My previous build (currently E30-less)
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170390

                        A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad in Inferno is my newest obsession

                        Comment


                          #13
                          We've done a few, don't bother with non intercooled. Check the dynonthread for numbers.

                          Abs pump ideally needs to be relocated as well as coolant res

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                            #14
                            Here are pictures of how close everything is with a cx racing radiator (was there from previous owner) I had to do all the same things and ksbsn88 (custom mounts, coolant lines etc.) I would definitely do what he did and go with an e30 m3 radiator. I also could never figure out if an m42 rad would fit.
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                            I'm happy to take any pictures or answer questions if you ever need. Also agree heavily with 328ijunkie, don't bother with non intercooled, it's easy enough to make an air to air or air to water fit, and it's so worth it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              After driving the car for a while it is apparent it will need an intercooler the car gets heat soaked. The TRM tune is rich and in the high 10s afr wot but 14.7 on cruise. The car also will stall if you push in the clutch after a pull. Probably to do with the lightened flywheel. Either way after i intercool the car it's going on a dyno so TRM can tweak the tune.

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