sure looks like 2 pieces to me, and by that I'm referring to the bumper and valance being seperate.
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How-to: New way to fit rear plasic bumpers on 87 or older
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Originally posted by EtaSportsure looks like 2 pieces to me, and by that I'm referring to the bumper and valance being seperate.
Listen up : THE OE M-TECH-II REAR BUMPER AND VALANCE IS A ONE PIECE DESIGN PERIOD .
It is made with that little seam to somewhat give the appearance/illusion that it a seperate piece when in fact it a one solid unit .
And yes everyone knows that the MT2 front spoiler and bumper are seperate units .
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Looks good. Is this the valance that comes on the plastic bumper cars? Where does the valance/ rear ende rivit at? I can't even see the line.Originally posted by cabriodster87"Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."Originally posted by Kershawi've got a boner and a desire to speed.
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For the record..
Fiberglass resin works alot better for patching the bumper pieces back together. Fiberglass resin can flex and not crack whereas Bondo with eventually crack everytime on these bumpers.
To avoid pressure cracks reinforce the back of the bumper with a small piece of fiberglass reinforcment cloth and some resin.Last edited by RobertK; 08-28-2006, 08:02 AM.
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Originally posted by Ritalin Kid View PostThe rear valance is from a 89 325is I got from Funkmasta through the F/S forum along with the bumpers and front valance.
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Originally posted by Eurospeed View PostRitalin, did the late-model rear apron stick into the fender well like the bumper does? Or was it a straight, even fit? I just found one.
yes please more details..i found one at the junker-Frank
1987 325is m50nv (schwarz)
1990 325is (sterling silber)(sold)
2001 525i
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It was a straight even fit. What I did was slid the bumper on the shocks and had a friend hold one side up even while I held the other side up and we took a marker and marked where the bottom of the bumper was.
We used this as a reference to line up the top notch in the valance that the bottom of the bumper needed to be lined up with. We then used the weld marks at both corners of the rear to match up the valance vertically. We then rivetted the middle back on first and worked our way around. In the process we kept putting the bumper back on to make sure we did not get off track.
The cool thing about rivets is that you can always drill them out if something screws up. Be sure to use steel or stainless steel rivets. Aluminum and steel like to oxidize over time meaning eventually the rivets will fall out.
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