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My LC-1 Installation Guide

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    #16
    I highly recommend staying away from the LC-1 and going with the AEM UEGO instead. The LC-1 has some serious reliability problems and it's unnecessarily complicated to wire. I've now owned two and when they worked, they worked great and read over a wider range than the AEM and I think it was more responsive as well. However, given the reliability problems, I am not willing to give them a third try. The AEM installed in a fraction of the time (VERY simple wiring), really isn't any more expensive these days, and I prefer the gauge layout over the cheap DB gauge option on the innovate. Both my LC-1s were located on the battery tray as well. That's just my 2 cents now that's I've owned in excess of $600 of wideband gear.
    1997 540i/6 - stock
    1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
    1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs

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      #17
      I've never had a reliability issue with any LC-1 I've had. *shrug*
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #18
        Originally posted by nando View Post
        I've never had a reliability issue with any LC-1 I've had. *shrug*
        they seem to be hit or miss, but it's clear they have a much higher failure rate than any other wideband on the market.
        1997 540i/6 - stock
        1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
        1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs

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          #19
          maybe it's just the most popular?
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

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            #20
            Originally posted by nando View Post
            maybe it's just the most popular?
            maybe, but I really don't think so. They have a large volume of problems (both known issues/design flaws and outright failures) noted on their own support forum. Pointed searches like "dead AEM wideband" or "dead NGK wideband" don't turn up results while dead LC-1s are rampant.
            1997 540i/6 - stock
            1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
            1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs

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              #21
              I haven't had any trouble with my lc-1 either. I installed it a year or so ago.

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                #22
                I use an AEM controller and can't complain. I deleted my stock o2 sensor and use it's 4 pin harness to wire my sensor in. Megasquirt reads the controller perfectly and can tune in failsafes incase the car runs too lean
                1989 325i LS Swap (Money Pit):https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=244933
                COTM Feb 2019: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=428404

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                  #23
                  Hi,

                  i have got an Innovate MTX-L wideband o2 sensor.

                  Like this: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php

                  The difference to the LC-1 is that it has only one ground wire instead oft two like the LC-1.

                  Can someone tell me how i connect this thing correctly to my e30 ?

                  Thx

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                    #24
                    Check with jaywood
                    I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s

                    HOWTOs:
                    DB vert plastic bumpers
                    OEM Keys
                    MTech1 docs

                    88 ix Lach/Card
                    91 ic Calypso 3.1
                    86 Cosmo 2.7

                    OEM+ or bust!


                    reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
                    TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
                    e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.

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                      #25
                      I've damaged the screw that served as temporary plug for broken o2 sensor,
                      muffler shop got it out but bung treads were not usable after that., so they welded a second bung on top of old one, would that be too deep for accuarete lc-1 readings ?

                      cheerios,

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                        #26
                        Probably. That was a trick we used on after cat 02 sensors when we removed the cats to fool the computer to make it stop throwing CELS back in my vdub days.
                        Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                        www.gecoils.com
                        My euro 316 project Transaction Feedback

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                          #27
                          Made one quick update to the second wiring diagram: added 1kOhm resistor between LED and ground. Can't believe that I forgot that! Hurr durr...

                          Transaction Feedback: LINK

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                            #28
                            In a day or so my install will be done, so I wanted to update this thread with my experience from a beginner's perspective.

                            I've made my harness plug and play except for the ground at the latch bolt. it was simple, and I'd recommend doing it every install because you can't hurt the harness in the car this way! I used the pigtail from the old o2 and wired the pushbutton and led inline where it will sit in either the glovebox, the battery tray, or under the firewall wiring cover. I have not decided yet, whatever is most practical when I've routed the cabling.

                            When I modded the relay for the heater, I just used the soldering iron to plastic weld the cover back on it, I feel like it will be more durable in the elements this way.

                            P.S. WOW, the stock o2 sensor was a SOB to remove.
                            sigpic

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                              #29
                              Installed and running. Awesome! With this write up and my changes it was very easy!
                              sigpic

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                                #30
                                Im a bit confused at the part where it says to jump the fp relay to the o2 relay. Do you leave them connected to the relays? Or splice the two wires together leaving them ALSO connected to the relays? Also curious wich relay is the 02 relay? Asumming its the one immediately next to the fp relay.. the wiring coloring is not the same in a 91 325ix.

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