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FS: TRM e30 coupe bolt-in rollbars

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    FS: TRM e30 coupe bolt-in rollbars

    Hey everyone,

    I have two TRM e30 coupe roll bars for sale. One was the original prototype, so it has been installed and uninstalled a couple times, but it's good as new. The other is brand new, the last one I have from the first batch. The prototype is $550, the brand new production model is $650.

    Installation is $150-$250 depending on how much you strip out of the car before you bring it to me. It's really easy to install yourself though, it doesn't require a lift or anything. Just lay it in place, drill all the holes, and bolt it in with the backing plates. If you ask nice, I might even let you throw the bar in at the shop so you don't have to get a truck to pick it up.

    These bars are welded together as one piece, there are no joints or removable bars. There is absolutely no chance of getting a back seat installed with the bars. Hardware and backing plates are included. The bars are both painted black, powdercoating is available for an extra fee.

    Thanks!




    #2
    Matt, my buddy Micah may be interested in this. Let me give him a call. When are you going to come up to the Local???
    Yours truly,
    Rich
    sigpic
    Originally posted by Rigmaster
    you kids get off my lawn.....

    Comment


      #3
      What are the dim's of the mounting base plates?

      What series are these legal for?

      Thnx in adv.
      I like to build things with metal n stuff

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by delatlanta1281 View Post
        Matt, my buddy Micah may be interested in this. Let me give him a call. When are you going to come up to the Local???
        I guess I'm not really an "e30" guy anymore, so I'm not sure when I'll be down there. I haven't been out to any bars lately at all, actually... kinda trying to save money for a couple new cars.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by StreuB1 View Post
          What are the dim's of the mounting base plates?

          What series are these legal for?

          Thnx in adv.
          The bar is NASA HPDE legal. The base plates are all greater than 9sqin each (NASA cage requirements)

          Comment


            #6
            9 sqin is their requirement? Rather small it seems. Rules are rules though. :)

            Do you have any more pics from different angles? Any installed pix? Install pix rly help sell something like this since fitment is paramount. Esp for a tall mofo like me. :D
            I like to build things with metal n stuff

            Comment


              #7
              Here's a few from my car before I put the full cage in:







              I do have more pictures of the bars installed at the shop.

              I'm 6'2 and have long legs and a steering wheel spacer, so I like to sit way back, and the bar is designed for this. It fits with a sunroof, so it won't be as close as possible to the roof if you have the sunroof removed. The bar is basically as far back as it can possibly go and still sit on the floor. It also allows you to keep using the stock seatbelts if you want.

              This is the prototype, the production models have laser-cut and CNC bent base plates:


              PS: I hope you aren't asking for disingenuous reasons. These bars are as high quality a product as you'll find on the market anywhere, and I've used them all: Kirk, Autopower, S&W...

              Comment


                #8
                Im asking for real and valid reasons. Shiesh.

                I was just commenting on how small the contact area is and wonder how well it would hold up in a real collision. It looks as if the rear plates mount to the wheel housing....yes? Id like to see that intersection as well as the intersection of the rear down tubes with the actual rollbar. Is that possible??

                Also, are those cages MIG welded?
                I like to build things with metal n stuff

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes, they're MIG welded.

                  I don't have any pictures of the final ones, here's the prototype. No pictures of the joint at the main hoop either. They all look just like these:

                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ok....ill post the picture I have of the rear down tube intersection....

                    That wheel housing is 20 gauge and with my heel of my palm, I can punch it in 2". I dont see that being sturdy at all. Especially since that is what holds the entire hoop stationary in the event of any accident.

                    Put aside BFC for now. Im not attacking. :)

                    Im being real and actually being concerned.

                    Also why the lateral brace between the rear down tubes? Those wheel housings are flippy floppy, bracing then will do nothing.


                    I like to build things with metal n stuff

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Oh, you meant rear down tube to the chassis... thought you meant to the main hoop.

                      I have no idea what gauge the wheelhousings are, but they're thicker than any of the other sheetmetal available in an appropriate place, which is basically just the bulkhead. When we're doing a welded in roll-cage, we go through the bulkhead to the rear spring perches. We can't do that on a bolt-in bar, so we do it this way. So does every one else.

                      And there is no way you can move that even two hundredths by hand.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by matt View Post
                        Oh, you meant rear down tube to the chassis... thought you meant to the main hoop.

                        I have no idea what gauge the wheelhousings are, but they're thicker than any of the other sheetmetal available in an appropriate place, which is basically just the bulkhead. When we're doing a welded in roll-cage, we go through the bulkhead to the rear spring perches. We can't do that on a bolt-in bar, so we do it this way. So does every one else.

                        And there is no way you can move that even two hundredths by hand.
                        i cant move it two tenths... 0.2"

                        i have moved it 2.0" by hand. by accident actually. its thin and is large and unsupported. that plate should be much much larger and contoured to the housing if you wanted to use it. i would much rather create an angled plate that nests into the crotch of the rear trunk partition and the mating bulkhead support just adjacent to it. Much stronger and its in much closer proximity to supporting structures.

                        The wheel housing, though used by several manufactures. Provides little support on its own, it is very flimsy.....it houses the wheel and spaces out the quarter panel....in the middle it supports the strut top but only along with a 14 gauge pan that grafts into the housing.....which is what provides the real support.
                        I like to build things with metal n stuff

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The wheelhousing is not flimsy. It's supported along every axis by other sheetmetal, and it's curved in three dimensions itself. It's the right place to mount the braces, if you can't go to the spring perch. The bulkhead is much thinner, so is the metal under the rear seat.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by StreuB1 View Post
                            with my heel of my palm, I can punch it in 2"

                            i cant move it two tenths... 0.2"

                            i have moved it 2.0" by hand.
                            haha

                            Comment

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