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Old 06-01-2015, 09:25 PM   #31
garretvs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q8y_drifter View Post
Got my freshly rebuilt T56 trans from Astro Performance yesterday.

Get the reverse switch that Ford uses on their T56 cars -- its connector is turned 90degs downwards (does not stick straight out like the GM one), and makes hookup of the reverse light easy.

Also cut off the three projections around the switch -- they are only there to protect the switch from breaking off when a power train is installed on the factory assembly line.
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Old 06-02-2015, 03:53 AM   #32
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got a link or part number for that reverse light switch?
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:35 AM   #33
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Try partsgeek.com for a 2010 Mustang:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ht_switch.html

Check the Bimmerforums thread for others who have used this switch. Solder or attach via ring lugs wires to the threaded posts on the switch. Cover with JB weld.
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Old 09-25-2015, 03:42 PM   #34
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Been a while since I last updated this thread. I got the car painted and the engine/trans in. Also installed the Garagistic booster delete kit with Wilwood pedal assembly and masters. Fabbed up new hard lines for the front brakes. Gonna do the rears once I figure out my hydro ebrake.

Few notes for anyone attempting this swap in the future. I wish I knew this info beforehand.

1) The shifter stick does not align with the shifter hole. It sits about 2-3" back. This is for the F-Body T56 on a factory style shifter. I test fit the driveshaft and trans cross member and everything lines up okay so it's definitely installed the way it should, therefore I ended up cutting the shifter hole to accommodate.

2) The tranny rubs the tunnel where the tailshaft housing and the trans case meet. Also the reverse lockout solenoid hits the tunnel quite a bit. Gonna have to lower it, massage the tunnel and try again. I'll get pics of where the interference happens tomorrow. There's also a good chance that the factory tunnel brace situated right above the trans output shaft will have to be cut to clear the trans/driveshaft flange.

3) As for the headers, the passenger side takes all of 5 seconds to slide into position. Just unscrew the oil filler neck for clearance, no need to remove the valve covers. The driver's side however is a pain. Gonna install that tomorrow and see what needs to be done to clear everything.

Here's a pic as it sits now.

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Old 09-26-2015, 04:22 AM   #35
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Cross member bolted up





This tunnel brace might require a little cutting to clear the DS flange



Final shifter position



SS braided clutch line from Wilwood pedal box through AC hole in tunnel and into bellhousing

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Old 09-26-2015, 04:24 AM   #36
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These are the two areas where the trans interferes with the tunnel

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Old 09-26-2015, 11:40 AM   #37
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Nice build, let us know how the brakes feel with the new setup. Thanks for the pics and info on how the swap is going, I know I'm gonna reference this when the time comes for my swap.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:16 AM   #38
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Thanks.

So I tried the driver's side header today. It's a real bitch that one, even with the valve cover and plugs removed. I'm gonna try lifting the engine on the driver's side. Might give me just enough clearance.

If anyone got any tips on how to do it without banging everything in the way with a BFH please lmk.
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Old 10-01-2015, 01:29 PM   #39
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So I finally figured out why the headers seem harder to install than I assumed. I ordered 1-3/4" headers but received 1-7/8" by mistake. Would cost me a ton to return them so I said fuck it and installed them anyway.

For anyone installing 1-7/8" headers, if the engine is already sitting in the bay you're gonna need to do the following to install the driver's side header:

1) Remove driver's side valve cover+coils
2) Remove driver's side plugs
3) Remove fuel rail
4) Loosen mounts and lift engine as far as possible (if possible pull engine towards passenger side).
5) Hammer the driver's side shock tower brace

After over 3 hours I finally got that side in. It's a damn tight fit. One of the primaries is touching the frame rail.

Passenger side header is stupid easy in comparison. I highly suggest you place the passenger side header, thread the header bolts and keep them loose, and THEN install the starter. MUCH easier this way.
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:32 PM   #40
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heh you complaining they sent you better headers by mistake? I chatted with the engineer dude, he told me to undo both motor mounts and loosen the trans mount, then take a long ass 2x4 and have someone pry the engine to one side so you can fit the headers in. HUGE Pita. GL getting the steering stuff in -_- I had such a hard time with that.
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:52 AM   #41
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Wasn't complaining rather explaining what needed to be done for future swappers. Besides, I wanted 1-3/4" headers knowing the 1-7/8" will give me a hard time with installation not cuz I'm a cheap ass.
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:06 AM   #42
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They'd gladly take it back though. I guess shipping is an issue. Sorry brah. Just busting your balls
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Old 10-02-2015, 12:33 PM   #43
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Not bad, free upgrade. Sure its more of a pain but more power.
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Old 10-02-2015, 03:18 PM   #44
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They'd gladly take it back though. I guess shipping is an issue. Sorry brah. Just busting your balls
haha no worries

Installed the steering rack and sikky shaft. Took me about 20mins maybe. Would've been a 5 min job if I had someone slide the shaft into the u-joints in. Lots of space between the primaries too. I'll get pics tomorrow. Not sure where to mount the remote filter though.
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Old 10-03-2015, 04:40 AM   #45
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My filter is on the front of the motor where the AC compressor would be. Attached to the same bolt holes I think. passenger side next to the balancer just above the oil pan. <3 it so much.
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