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Old 05-30-2016, 08:40 PM   #1
HerbE30
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E30 Drift R3volution!

"It ruins the car, tires, clutch..blah blah blah."
I'm saying. Some of us drift, some of us slide and we all know there are 1000 drift questions threads started.

I want to know what others are doing to slide their cars. I know others have lots to share and I am a big fan of learning the hard things the easy way.

If you want to list specs about your car I think this would be a cool format

1. Motor (what are you running currently)
w/supporting mods; ie cams, rockers, etc.
2.Turbo (if and what)
w/supporting mods; bov, wastegate, impeller/housing swaps.
3. Engine Management
...If anyone wants to share maps that would make you a nice person.
4. Suspension
w/camber/caster or bushing and sway mods.
5. Steering mods.
example. Wisefab angle kit/Welding spacers in the knuckles/Longer tie rods/ LCAs.
6. Diff and Tranny
example: Getrag 260/Med 4.10 LSD. Blunttech SSK.
7. Are you a boss running hydraulic?
8. Tires?


Also, just a few questions just so this can be a question pass back and forth thing.

Anyone running real anti-lag? Care to share info.
Also, can I please get some roll cage pictures as I will be having one installed very soon!

Thanks guys! This doesn't need to be a sticky, just a revived from the dead once a month kind of thread. Just curious to see what people have to say. I know drifting isn't the most popular thing on r3v. That's why this thread r3volutionizes it.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:52 PM   #2
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Curious about this too. I hear the rear suspension is hard to dial in, due to the semi-rear trailing arms? Something about it being hard to zero the camber and toe (optimal for sliding).
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Old 06-04-2016, 05:06 PM   #3
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Also interested in more info. I know there are a few drifters on here
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Old 06-04-2016, 05:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SarcastaBall View Post
Curious about this too. I hear the rear suspension is hard to dial in, due to the semi-rear trailing arms? Something about it being hard to zero the camber and toe (optimal for sliding).
This should fix that problem http://store.garagistic.com/e30-perf...frame-brackets
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Old 06-04-2016, 11:35 PM   #5
bataangpinoy
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First off: Sell your e30 and get an e36.

Before the v8 craze, I drifted an e30 for about 2.5 seasons including a few pro am events (09 to 11). Back then, I was the only guy in a BMW and if I broke, no one had spare parts. I had to try to preserve the car if I could. I'm a better driver for it (these chassis are really tough to get started on) but I wish I had started with something more modern/common.

Since then I've went s-chassis and haven't looked back, but the e36 is a very good option these days. Way easier for powertrain options, and becoming more and more popular at the track. My current competition car is an Ls1 s14; proven, reliable and capable chassis. It should carry me to Pro 2 if I don't wreck it too bad.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HerbE30 View Post
"It ruins the car, tires, clutch..blah blah blah."
I'm saying. Some of us drift, some of us slide and we all know there are 1000 drift questions threads started.

I want to know what others are doing to slide their cars. I know others have lots to share and I am a big fan of learning the hard things the easy way.

If you want to list specs about your car I think this would be a cool format

1. Motor (what are you running currently)
w/supporting mods; ie cams, rockers, etc.
2.Turbo (if and what)
w/supporting mods; bov, wastegate, impeller/housing swaps.
3. Engine Management
...If anyone wants to share maps that would make you a nice person.
4. Suspension
w/camber/caster or bushing and sway mods.
5. Steering mods.
example. Wisefab angle kit/Welding spacers in the knuckles/Longer tie rods/ LCAs.
6. Diff and Tranny
example: Getrag 260/Med 4.10 LSD. Blunttech SSK.
7. Are you a boss running hydraulic?
8. Tires?


Also, just a few questions just so this can be a question pass back and forth thing.

Anyone running real anti-lag? Care to share info.
Also, can I please get some roll cage pictures as I will be having one installed very soon!

Thanks guys! This doesn't need to be a sticky, just a revived from the dead once a month kind of thread. Just curious to see what people have to say. I know drifting isn't the most popular thing on r3v. That's why this thread r3volutionizes it.


1) I ran a 2.7i hybrid using super-eta pistons and a 272 cam. Barely enough oomph for this chassis (its heavier than you think). Give up on making power from the single cam. BTW, rocker arms are not that cheap, and are a BITCH to change track side.

2) I was N/A. Going turbo in the e30 engine bay with a BMW engine can be tricky unless you can do something for better under hood heat management and to have better packaging. If you really want to have the extra power and stay BMW, an m50 or even an m52 with s50 cams will be enough. A turbo on a 24v is still tricky to fit in the bay, but it has been done and is a good option.

BUT if you just try to hack together some shit for the sake of going faster, you'll just spend a ton of money and not have anything to show for it except a peaky, expensive, unreliable engine that has very short service intervals. And it will be a bitch to work on. Parts shops near the tracks will not have anything in stock that you can use.


3) Just a miller PSIK and matching chip. Made cool induction noises.

4) All AKG poly bushings, e46 front control arms, e36 tie rods, slip on rack spacer, Camber was non adjustable in the rear, I didn't think the eccentrics were worth it at the time. A few track e30 guys I knew said they had issues with the bolts not staying tight, and not being able to dial out the toe and camber separately.

BC racing coil overs. I was the first guy to run these on an e30. The dorks made fun of me for buying em, but look at them now; they're the industry standard for entry level coil overs.

5) See #4

6) g260, s3.73. The track out here are fast, I was using 3rd gear at nearly all the tracks except Englishtown NJ.

7) Yup. Massive Wilwood caliper adapters, with a wilwood master w/ independent reservoir. Was awesome with the Polymatrix B pads.

8) 195/55/15 Dunlop Direzza Dz101 for the front, and Federal SS595 for the rear in the same size.

9) Roll cage.. refer to my shop instagram for reference (@functionmotorsports). I interview each customer before we start working on their cars so I can asses their needs, goals, and end cost. I will refuse service if a customer does not specify a rule book to which the chassis needs comply with.

If your cage builder is experienced, then he/she will reference the rule book of the sanctioning body you're driving with. They should take measurements from your seating position, so you'll need to bring one your seat, seat rails, helmet and steering setup. Then they'll know where to place the main hoop, halo bars, harness bars, etc etc.

Don't let some hack try to sell you on a bullshit, crooked, snot weld cage. It's your life, do everything you can to stay safe. In the case of a drift car we build the chassis, fuel systems and suspension to meet or exceed the specification as outlined in the Formula Drift rule book. For example, the rules require that you have forward anti-intrusion bars to the fire wall keep suspension components from crushing your legs, and the rear down bars from the main hoop + a dual layer of aluminum (riveted in place) will keep flame, debris and rearward chassis components from entering the cabin. We do a little extra reinforcing of the cage for side impact and roll-over protection, as well as incorporate a crumple zone in the wheel wells to absorb most of the impact in the event of a crash.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SarcastaBall View Post
Curious about this too. I hear the rear suspension is hard to dial in, due to the semi-rear trailing arms? Something about it being hard to zero the camber and toe (optimal for sliding).
Impossible to zero them both out. If you get the toe to 0*, you'll still have 3* camber. Having 1.5 camber will net you about a total of .25* toe in. Too twitchy for my liking, and both are very wasteful as far as tire consumption is concerned.

In my experience (7 years now at this point), it has been that you want no more than a total of 1/8th" TOTAL toe in (you can toe out an 1/8th" if you have low power) and as little camber as possible on a competition car.

Between -1* and 0* of rear camber is fine (even + 1* for the crazy guys). This will give you predictable and stable rear end but more importantly, will allow you to have optimal tire consumption. You can dial in grip with rear damper settings, sway bar settings and of course, tire pressure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Reub_e30 View Post
That helps, but will not fix the problem alone. Because of the design of the e30 trailing arm, toe and camber cannot be adjusted independently from the other. IF you somehow fitted the e30 rear trailing arms with mono-balls instead of bushings, then it would give you optimal adjustability. But if you want 0 camber and 0 toe, you'll only get this from a car with an IRS (and adj. arms) or a car with a live axle. 12mm poly subframe risers are more than adequate for the e30, just don't slam you car and you'll be fine.


If you have any questions, shoot me a DM.
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Last edited by bataangpinoy; 06-09-2016 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:04 AM   #6
HerbE30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bataangpinoy View Post
First off: Sell your e30 and get an e36..
I actually consider this every day. haha. I really thank you for your detailed post. I am starting to learn the things involved with getting a 30 fully drift prepped.

I love BC coils and wish someone would trade me theirs for anything I have around plus my old set-up. B6HD and Vogtland springs. It's pretty squishy, helps to throw it around on a slightly tuned m20.

I also consider switching to an S-Chassis but the cost. You know as well. haha. A chassis can be the cost.

I have no local shops to rollcage it. Not that wouldn't be demo-spec .

Can you describe what it feels like to slide with positive camber?

My personal update - I have decided on an engine (I think) but I want to make sure that I like how to chassis controls. I love the feel of the 30 sliding more than anything else.

I have a .98 degree of camber in the rear right, so I have to rebuild the diff and change those axles. Do you think camber/toe correctors can adjust this out? I am running Condor Speed Shop 12mm risers in the rear as well, if that gives any idea for reference.



Also, I have been going to a local tire shop trying to get everything dialed up in the front between mods. He suggest that I take a 'christmas tree bit'/'set upper' (not sure what they are called) and boring out the strut holes.... If that gives you an idea of the local bs I deal with.
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:49 PM   #7
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an e36 will slide so much easier with less money into mods. then you can spend more on tires and seat time. Had i only known that before I started, my garage might look a lot different today.
1. stock m20 with ARP studs
2. ebay HX35, tial 38mm wastegate, greddy type rs bov
3. Megasquirt 2
4. Yellow Speed Racing coils 10k front, 12k rear, condor bushings for everything, m3 offset CABs, no front swaybar, 22mm rear sway, e46 LCAs with way too much camber all around cuz i'm stupid.
5. Z3 rack with tie rod spacers
6. 3.25LSD with G260
7. yes
8. whatever junk 14s i can find for the rear, DZ102 195/50/15 up front
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:26 PM   #8
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http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...t=9029&page=10

Here's some reading material for you. Read the whole thread if you want, but the last page is where it gets really interesting.

Steve is a friend of mine and a solid dude, knows everyting there is to know about drifting BMW's and E30's. Currently he's racing in FD Canada with his E46 he built.
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Old 09-23-2016, 08:07 AM   #9
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@Smith - We have very similar taste, this was my plan. But I am can't stop thinking about 24v and turbo. How do you like those coils? How much boost and what are you thinking it's making bhp wise?

@Powling - Is this the same build as the Show to Track/Drift car on youtube? I already think about an SR20 powerplant. I just wouldn't know what to when trying to sort out a driveshaft. The only way I would go JDM is with a 2jz as they have adapter plates to mount that to the 420G Getrag. Same as the v8s and m3s. Then I could just use the e36 m3 auto driveshaft. I will be reading into this thread for sure though! I love a good read. I have too much free time to be stuck in front of a computer. And I need more hours, so more reading is going to happen. Anyone with a build thread please post!
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:56 AM   #10
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Well, Andy is still racing this car.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=174213
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:38 AM   #11
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Well, Andy is still racing this car.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=174213
Wow... That is insane!!! Plenty of reading is in there as well. It's also had a few dollars spent too.

Where is this being raced???
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Old 09-23-2016, 03:52 PM   #12
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Anybody ever run the race spec CAtuned Coilovers on there e30? Seems to have pretty good 10k/12k spring rates for drifting. Anyone running a turbo m42?
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:25 PM   #13
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Wow... That is insane!!! Plenty of reading is in there as well. It's also had a few dollars spent too.

Where is this being raced???
Just follow him on FB. Great guy who has been doing this for a while now.
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:36 PM   #14
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Wow... That is insane!!! Plenty of reading is in there as well. It's also had a few dollars spent too.

Where is this being raced???
He races in the Formula Drift Canada series.

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Just follow him on FB. Great guy who has been doing this for a while now.
https://www.facebook.com/Moneygangsteve/?fref=ts
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:59 PM   #15
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He races in the Formula Drift Canada series.
Check again, that's not the fellow I linked to.
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