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Old 11-03-2016, 04:51 PM   #16
varg
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Doesn't fire the ignition for the first X events during cranking.
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:25 PM   #17
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post a log if you can
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:42 PM   #18
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stupid question how do i post a video of my log
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Old 11-17-2016, 01:30 PM   #19
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Hey I figured I'd chime in here. i'm having the same issue here at 5k rpm. I've done some searching and basically its my understanding that the CPS generates a voltage that drops whenever the two missing teeth pass. As the RPM's climb the overall voltage level is lower because they are moving faster but the drop is relativly the same. Megasquirt has had issues with noise in the CPS signals generated by 60-2 wheels that we have in our e30's. the regular MS 3.57 has adjustable resisters to set a min and max for the signal and you have to play around with them. Microsquirt however does not have that adjustment. you must add a resister to the board and they have included a place for one. Now we are working with a custom built set up and I'm willing to bet Keith has already installed a resister in our units. (other people have had this issue at 1500-2k rpms with no resister.) however, if the resister value is too large the max voltage at higher rpms might not ever be high enough to register. Changing to a weaker resister might put the CPS signal right in the sweet spot. I'm Just hesitating to change anything till I hear from Keith first. read this: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=306770 guy having the same issue and he resolved it with a different resister.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...megasquirt-vr/ this shows you why the issue is happening but not how to fix it in microsquirt.
Hope this helps. if i get mine up and running ill update you.
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Old 11-18-2016, 03:05 AM   #20
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I thought when rpm goes up the overall voltage went up as well.

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Old 11-18-2016, 09:28 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomansland92 View Post
I thought when rpm goes up the overall voltage went up as well.

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Youre right i said it backwords. I just reread the link i posted. Thanks
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Old 11-18-2016, 09:47 AM   #22
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Youre right i said it backwords. I just reread the link i posted. Thanks
Are you using a genuine bmw sensor, I've seen people have these problems with aftermarket ones.


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Old 11-18-2016, 12:24 PM   #23
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Thanks for the information
Anyone knows how to get in contact with Keith aka whodwho


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Old 11-18-2016, 12:40 PM   #24
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From everyone I've talked to they haven't been able to get in contact with him for a little while now. I hope he's okay

Do you have an oscilloscope?
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:24 PM   #25
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Whodwho's always been slow to respond but he has always got back to me. hes got a lot of guys hitting him up everyday and im pretty sure he has a full time job outside of this.

I'm not 100% sure my sensor is genuine bmw, it's been in the car for a while. I had purchased a brand new one that was maybe hella but that one has this issue at 4k rpms instead of 5k so I switched back. they seem to have a lot of variance in the signal strength which is why different resisters are needed. So I'm thinking ill need a larger resister to cut the signal down at higher rpms contrary to what i said before?

I don't have an oscilloscope but looking at my tooth logger it looks like the teeth are all showing up they just all get shorter which is why I had originally thought I needed a smaller resister.

edit: if you google around there is a thread exactly like this on e30tech thats down...same questions with one of whodwhos units and it probably has the solution in it already but the page is down...
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:26 PM   #26
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stupid question how do i post a video of my log
dont post a video. Post the log file. take a tooth log and a regular log and attach the file to your post.

Last edited by kyleconstantine; 11-18-2016 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:24 AM   #27
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Ok my issue is resolved. Sorry for cluttering this thread up with a lot of unnessesary info. It was way easier than i was making it. Check your cps gap between the cps and the toothed wheel. Its supposed to be 1mm +- .3mm. Mine was almost 2mm. I loosened the 2 13mm bolts and it didnt seem to have any adjustment so i used a prybar gently and got it to like .7mm. Instantly my car could rev all the way to 7 grand.
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:58 AM   #28
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Funny you should bring this up I just started to try and adjust my but broke the cps holder I just order one what a bummer I hope it work for me too. Thanks guys got all your help will update.


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Old 11-19-2016, 11:08 AM   #29
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Well it is cast aluminum, highly unlikely you'll be able to bend it without breaking it in any case. I'd like to know how they got knocked out of spec in the first place. I know a guy who I caught a while back bending his adjustable cast aluminum brake lever by heating and bending it. He had lowsided the bike and ridden it home with a wonky lever so he wanted to "fix" it. I did him a favor and mid-explanation snapped it off in front of him with surprisingly little effort, as a way of telling him he should put the stock one back on until he could replace the adjustable. That's a good way to kill yourself, bending your cast aluminum brake lever twice then riding with it.
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:24 PM   #30
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Update just got the cps gap problem
Fixed thanks guys


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