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Old 11-26-2016, 05:04 AM   #1
Tatsga
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Race car turbo engine

I'm building a turbo M42 with a small budget for my race car. I'm going to use as much OEM part as possible. Race series technical rules dictates 34mm intake air resrictor so I'am aiming to 300whp and +500nm of torque. I will use E85 as fuel so I can use high compression ratio(about 10:1) and boost(1,5-2bar) to achieve to torque figurs with 3000-6000rpm power band.

My plan is:
-M42 block bored to 86mm(400000km original engine)*
-M47 88mm stroke forged crankshaft*
-ACL Race main and conrod bearings
-No-name forged H-beam M50 135mm conrods wit ARP bolts, upper bearing changed in machine shop to 21mm
-2nd hand S50B32 pistons*
- M44 MLS head gasket
-ARP head studs
-Stock head and cams* with new hydraulic buckets, valves and springs
-S50B32 ITBs* and shortened oem plenum* with modified 2,5" inlet for boost tube and blow of valve
-1000cc ethanol injectors
-Big 2,5" intercooler at front
-Mitsubishi EVO3 oem turbo with 34mm inlet restrictor
-Modified M42(e30) exhaust manifold* inverted for front mounted turbo installation
-3" downpipe/straight exhaust with side exhaust behind drivers door
-DTA S80 ecu* with full custom harness and sensors(inc. ethanol-sensor and electric boost control)
-Porsche coil on plug-coils
-PWM waterpump without termostat, ECU controlled
-Lightened M20 flywheel and sintered clutch
-E36 328i trans(5-speed 320z)
-Typ188 3.23>2.93(240km/h tops)>2.65(265km/h tops) 75% race spec LSD

I already have parts marked with *

My car is:

-1990 318iS with 400kkm on dash
-Heavily lightened M3 glassfiber body(pun intended
-FIA 8-point cage
-DTM-style front tube suspension
-Adjustable oem rear axle
-Group N spec Bilstein E30M3 shocks with coil over springs
-Porsche Boxter 4-pot calipers with E46 300mm discs and floormounted pedalbox
-Plexiglass windows
-GT3 carbonfiber rear wing
-Large front splitter
-245/45R17 Toyo R888r semi-slicks on lightweigth forged wheels
-900-950kg without driver(who weights wayyy too much

Is there something that I need to re-think with my intended engine build? My first turbo build so I'm not so familiar with turbo technics. Sorry for the typos, english isn't my native language

Ps. I'll post picture of my car when I get to computer later

Last edited by Tatsga; 11-26-2016 at 11:11 AM. Reason: Diff ratio changed again
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:17 AM   #2
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Nice! Looking forward to the build!
Maybe look into ducting and good cooling solutions? Go heavy on the heat shielding and wrapping?
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:50 AM   #3
Tatsga
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Here is the car before I moved it to my own garage on the end of summer. Bottom of car has allready painted, interior still needs a little paint to look nice After that I can install all the glassfiber body panels so it will look like a car once again...

I going use a big as possible generic aluminium cooler with a ECU controlled(on/off) electric fan. Because of PWM controlled waterpump I'm going to use 2-3 temp sensors around the engine(head is the critical part). I'll use ceremic coating on exhaust parts to reduce engine bay temp. If the turbo comes too close to the engine, I'll use probably a heat blanket for it. Turbo should be around where the washer bottle was.
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:56 AM   #4
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Pictures please. This sounds too cool.

Are you going to use the improved the late model timing case with no idler sprocket? How about those bearings, do they have a 360 degree thrust surface? 1000cc, that's big fuel injector for 300whp on E85.

What is your plan for an oil cooler?
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:58 AM   #5
Tatsga
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I don't know how I have missed the idler wheel discussion on the internet, but this knowledge was new to me. With a quick googling I would say that I will use bigger M44 oil pump and get rid of the idler wheel. This is why I like to test my ideas on internet forum

I'm not sure about bearings but I'll try to find out.

Injector calculator gives around 1000cc for 350 flywheel hp e85 engine on 80% duty cycle. I'm looking for 300whp so around 1000cc will about right. I'll consult my local injector dealer before I'll order them.

Oil cooler will sit on the front splitter in front the bumber. It will be decent size and propably find its way to from Ebay, China to Finland.

In the picture: front axle with selfmade(had a professional welder to weld them together) cromo wishbones. Mechanical steering rack is 2,5 rotation left to right(custom part inside). Shocks are missing coils so there is a piece of steel tube working as bumb stop Tie rods will need about 3cm threaded extensions because of quite a bit wider track. Wheel hubs have 5-bolt pattern
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:00 AM   #6
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That's so cool. Is the placement of the heim joints in your suspension arms compensating for bumpsteer?
Judging by the bottom of the strut housing, it looks like you can fit a spacer between it and the tie rods/control arm joint.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:20 AM   #7
Tatsga
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There is no bumbsteer correction at this moment. I would like keep the oem rods. It would need some sort axles that threads over rod ends cone and have another cone to fixed in the hub thus providin offset for the ball joint. Maybe I'll be in touch with the machinist that sold me the parts for those wishbones. I can order the rod end extensions at the same time.
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:07 AM   #8
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This is very nice. Fresh paint underneath is tasty.
Is the steering rack a modified E30 one or an E36/46 one?
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Old 11-27-2016, 12:17 PM   #9
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Old 11-27-2016, 03:23 PM   #10
Tatsga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseRat View Post
This is very nice. Fresh paint underneath is tasty.
Is the steering rack a modified E30 one or an E36/46 one?
Yeah the underneath with black paint is nice because it hides all the flaws

Steering rack and pinion is made by a Finnish machine shop Karpiola(they make custom drivetrain parts with gears and splines etc to rally cars). My steering rack did cost about 350(included installation to my oem rack and shipping both ways) 7 years ago. I drove about 2,5 years and 50kkm daily driving with it Parking needed some arm muscles...
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tatsga View Post
Injector calculator gives around 1000cc for 350 flywheel hp e85 engine on 80% duty cycle. I'm looking for 300whp so around 1000cc will about right. I'll consult my local injector dealer before I'll order them.
What's the BSFC figure you're using for that calculation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tatsga View Post
Oil cooler will sit on the front splitter in front the bumber. It will be decent size and propably find its way to from Ebay, China to Finland.
How will you attach it to the oil system? One of those fancy oil filter housing caps?
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:37 PM   #12
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Use one of these headgaskets. It will be more effective in a forced induction motor:

http://www.topendpower.pl/p/en/ath-3...m+x+1-6mm.html
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Old 12-01-2016, 11:59 PM   #13
Tatsga
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Different injector calculators seems to give different injector sizes from 750 to 1100cc. I'll probably try to find used and cleaned/checked 850-1000cc injectors for good price. There is quite good second hand market in Finland for turbo related parts.

I'll probably use electric oil/fuel pump to circulate oil from the sump to the cooler and back. Using low pressure pump minimize oil leaks on the cooler. There has been some problems with leaking oil coolers within our series.

Maybe I'll use M44 MLS on dyno and when everything is ready I'll switch to Athena MLS(over 200e is too much if head needs to be lifted off for some reason).
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Old 12-04-2016, 02:48 PM   #14
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I did some calculations with compression ratio. I measured piston head and cylinder head capasitys and got 12ml for piston head and 27ml for combustion chamber. To get as high CR as easily possible I need to shave 0.15mm from cylinder block and 1.0mm from the head, use STD M44 HG(1.74mm) and 135mm conrods. My calculations gave me an estimate of 1:9.8 which should be enough with 1.5-2bar boost. What will be the fuse, (euro)S50B30 stock pistons?

I also cleaned engine parts today. The cylinder block is now on a citric acid path overnight to get rid of all of the rust. 20 year old oil gunk is really hard to get clean...
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:08 AM   #15
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Definitely interested to see how you do the oil cooler. 10 minutes into a session on a ~70 degree day and I'm already hitting 280+ F oil pan temperature, so I need to come up with a better solution. That's only on 1 bar boost, but it's not a water cooled turbo either.
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