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Old 12-09-2016, 06:16 AM   #16
TimeMachinE30
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Here is a spec sheet for this model:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9m...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:03 PM   #17
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A Car & Driver article with info on the Dinan 5:

http://mmm-five.net/Articles/files/C...20Dinan540.pdf

I will be looking for that cubby gauge pod. Notice no catch can, still with washer bottle.
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Old 12-10-2016, 09:10 AM   #18
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Car is parked this week and I haven't a chance to take photos, diagnose or anything hands on. At this point, it is all cerebral hence the reading assignments above.

With the motor, blown rings an idea, is it that the rings are bad or the crankcase pressure is just too great for the rings to hold? So, what first?

I will:

- clean oil catch can (fact oil is in can, the system likely is not fully blocked)

- confirm the PCV is breathing (if blocked, ,clean, hopefully then relieve pressure)

- perform a leakdown test (what pressure does the cylinder get tested at? ericthecarguy video watched, therefor i am a leakdown testing graduate having never touched a leakdown gauge... or just pump air right into cylinder and determine where air escaping to!?)

-smoke test just to rule out anything else which may be working against me (DIY smoke tester kit to be made, kathran wire ordered, ammo box on hand, next is a tri to hardware store)

-When do I decide a cleaner (seafoam or autorx, fast or gradual)? Will a cleaner hurt the deposits which may well be helping compression?

-Do I try a nano-ceramic type additive which claims to help alleviate blowby?

This is the big one:
Is blow by really the issue.. or is excessive crankcase pressure really the problem? Chicken before the egg? I think deal with PCV first, determine if the pressure seen really is problematic..

/ranting for now
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:06 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimeMachinE30 View Post
A Car & Driver article with info on the Dinan 5:

http://mmm-five.net/Articles/files/C...20Dinan540.pdf
What a wonderful article!
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:06 AM   #20
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What a wonderful article!
Agreed, the subject matter is awesome, but seriously did they even have editors reading those articles before they went to press?

OP- the car is awesome, I can't wait to see what you do with it.
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:59 PM   #21
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I need help!! Thinking restore PCV system.
. Do valley pan, intake gaskets, paint VC, etc. All one blustery wintry day soon.
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:40 PM   #22
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So cool, congrats!
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:43 AM   #23
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimeMachinE30 View Post
Car is parked this week and I haven't a chance to take photos, diagnose or anything hands on. At this point, it is all cerebral hence the reading assignments above.

With the motor, blown rings an idea, is it that the rings are bad or the crankcase pressure is just too great for the rings to hold? So, what first?

I will:

- clean oil catch can (fact oil is in can, the system likely is not fully blocked)

- confirm the PCV is breathing (if blocked, ,clean, hopefully then relieve pressure)

- perform a leakdown test (what pressure does the cylinder get tested at? ericthecarguy video watched, therefor i am a leakdown testing graduate having never touched a leakdown gauge... or just pump air right into cylinder and determine where air escaping to!?)

-smoke test just to rule out anything else which may be working against me (DIY smoke tester kit to be made, kathran wire ordered, ammo box on hand, next is a tri to hardware store)

-When do I decide a cleaner (seafoam or autorx, fast or gradual)? Will a cleaner hurt the deposits which may well be helping compression?

-Do I try a nano-ceramic type additive which claims to help alleviate blowby?

This is the big one:
Is blow by really the issue.. or is excessive crankcase pressure really the problem? Chicken before the egg? I think deal with PCV first, determine if the pressure seen really is problematic..

/ranting for now
I'll try to touch on things as you mention them

- Seafoam could help. Yes, clearing up deposits can exacerbate oil leaks and in rare cases cause more blowby, but if there are deposits in the ring grooves or the oil scraper ring on the pistons, it could also help quite a bit. Kind of a crapshoot, but it is more attractive because it is cheap and easy. It's very unlikely to make the problems you have worse than they already are.

- Rings being worn and crankcase pressure go hand in hand; it's not an either/or thing. In a fresh engine, there is minimal crankcase pressure. The high pressure area is in the combustion chamber, and small amounts of pressure make it around the rings and into the crankcase. As the rings wear, more of this pressure will make its way past the rings. Increased cylinder pressure will have a similar result - by adding boost, cylinder pressure increases, which increases the pressure differential across the rings, thus more blowby. Depending on how the grooves are cut in the pistons, increased cylinder pressure can put more load on the rings, actually making them seal better, but they will wear faster. Once sufficiently worn, the ring gap opens up and there isn't really enough ring tension to seal the combustion chamber. Some combination of this results in more combustion pressure getting past the rings into the crankcase, and all that pressure wants to travel to the area of lower pressure, i.e. outside the engine. When you exceed the capacity of the PCV system, it blows out past seals and gaskets. TLR version: rings wear, more combustion pressure gets into the crankcase, crankcase pressure increases.

- the first two checks sound good. If the crankcase can't breathe, even a very small amount of blowby past the rings will cause the issue you're having.

- Leakdown test is a great idea. Sounds like you have an idea how it works - I usually set them to 90-100 PSI - remember combustion pressure is many, many times higher than that. You can't hurt the engine with compressed air. And yes, you're just determining how quickly air is escaping, and sometimes you can figure out where it's going. There are some pretty decent kits on Ebay for ~$30 if you don't have access to one.

- Smoke test won't hurt in that you may find some vacuum or boost leaks, or you may find a major seal leak, but since smoke testers aren't really positive pressure, I don't think this will tell you much with respect to the blowby problem.

- Deposits don't help compression. They may be preventing slow oil leaks from becoming floods, but that's about it. Anything you can do to get rid of deposits really is a good thing, in the long run. I've had good luck with seafoam fed through a vacuum line into the intake, and in the fuel. I've never had a need to put it in the oil, and don't know that putting it in the oil would help much in your case.

- I'm not a big believer in additives. That one is up to you; it might work, it might not.

- Crankcase pressure is the issue. Crankcase pressure is the result of either no way for the pressure to get out of the crankcase, or is the result of excess blowby. Make sure that everything is vented and flowing freely, and then chase blowby when the PCV system is known working well.
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:58 AM   #25
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Thak you kindly for your advce and taking time to offer it.


So, course of action will be:

Clean can, test to see if air is even blowing through.

Then the seafoam, help clear it understanding it is only a temporary thing, maybe even part of the diagnostic.. nit really a fix IMHO?

Smoke test is just the chance to see what else needs remedy. This Dinan kit is to work with stock system. I need to make sure the base system is functioning.. nack to stock specs.


What would you do?
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:30 AM   #26
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I would do basically what you outlined.

1. Make sure the PCV system is functioning and not plugged up, and clean catch can. Unless there is an issue with how it is hooked up, I'd leave the catch can on it for now.
2. Seafoam the engine and see if that improves ring sealing
3. Figure out exactly where the oil is coming from, which will involve a lot of cleaning to see fresh leaks. Make sure it's not a worn oring, blown out gasket, etc.
4. Do a leakdown test (may as well also do a compression test if you have the equipment)

When you have the results of all that, it will be easier to determine what the next step is.
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:22 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by gearheadE30 View Post
I would do basically what you outlined.

1. Make sure the PCV system is functioning and not plugged up, and clean catch can. Unless there is an issue with how it is hooked up, I'd leave the catch can on it for now.
2. Seafoam the engine and see if that improves ring sealing
3. Figure out exactly where the oil is coming from, which will involve a lot of cleaning to see fresh leaks. Make sure it's not a worn oring, blown out gasket, etc.
4. Do a leakdown test (may as well also do a compression test if you have the equipment)

When you have the results of all that, it will be easier to determine what the next step is.
Copy!

Harbor Freight leak down tester? Craftsman? Tekton make one?
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Old 12-14-2016, 11:25 AM   #28
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He mentioned that there are good eBay kits for ~$30, a quick search turned this up:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tu-21-Cylind...500444&vxp=mtr
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Old 12-14-2016, 02:30 PM   #29
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I saw those and many seem to look like the HF one which is a low pressure unit and seems an HF tool to pass on.

Ill dig around more. Thanks guys!!
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Old 12-29-2016, 08:51 AM   #30
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Totalled.

Market value is low enough that it wouldn't take much
I fucked up, feel like a douche having ruined such a super car.

It will be for sale here to recoup my money in. Id love to find a clean E34, pull motor for a refresh with an M62 block and keep it auto.. say a Dinan 5 E34 Touring but... i jist cannot right now. Too many pokers in fire.


Ill be working on a comprehemsive FS listing.

If interested in it, as a whole, let me know. I am thinking a lrice that still leaves enough meat on the bone if someone else wnated to take time to part it out.
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