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Old 03-31-2006, 06:12 PM   #16
Brew
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Great writeup!

One quick note: I wouldn't recommend taking the tierods out the way you guys did it if you are going to reuse them. You can very easily mushroom the stud by hammering on it like that. A better method is to whack the splindle where the stud goes through or, the best method, to use a tie rod puller.
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Old 03-31-2006, 06:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brew
Great writeup!

One quick note: I wouldn't recommend taking the tierods out the way you guys did it if you are going to reuse them. You can very easily mushroom the stud by hammering on it like that. A better method is to whack the splindle where the stud goes through or, the best method, to use a tie rod puller.
A tie rod puller or ball joint forks would be idea but we actually used a block of wood and a hammer so I need to edit that. If using a block of wood or a rubber mallet you should be fine. But you're right.. You should not hit the tie rod ends directly with a hammer.
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:15 PM   #18
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I've never had trouble replacing a rack by holding the motor with a jack. You can bend your subframe all you want, but I rather not.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:23 PM   #19
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You didn't include beer on the price list.

It's incomplete! :P

Thanks for the writeup! I was thinking about doing this over the summer! I'll most likely be doin the Z3 rack.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:29 PM   #20
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I dropped the subframe when I did my control arms and used my extra jack to hold the engine in place - it worked like a charm.
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Old 04-17-2006, 10:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveCN
I dropped the subframe when I did my control arms and used my extra jack to hold the engine in place - it worked like a charm.
I did it the same way on the second E30 I did CA's on. Just pulled out the whole subframe with CA's and rack still attached. Only way to fly now
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Old 04-18-2006, 06:41 AM   #22
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Hell.. I had no problem replacing the CA's with the subframe right where it is.

I just find that I can get the job done easier and safer not holding the engine up with a jack. I've been in situations where that's been trying and at one point it was almost disasterous when my roomate accidentally tripped on the rack while two people were under the car.

After that I only suggest holding the engine up with a hoist or cherry picker
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Old 04-18-2006, 07:14 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveCN
I dropped the subframe when I did my control arms and used my extra jack to hold the engine in place - it worked like a charm.
Why would you do that? Did you guys have trouble getting the inner ball joint nut off? I just hit it with the 1/2" impact from up top with a long extension.
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Old 04-18-2006, 07:23 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brew
Why would you do that? Did you guys have trouble getting the inner ball joint nut off? I just hit it with the 1/2" impact from up top with a long extension.
Yes. While an extension was feasible on the driver side, on the passenger side it was not. (Though there is actually a lot more clearance working from below over there).
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Old 04-18-2006, 07:44 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveCN
Yes. While an extension was feasible on the driver side, on the passenger side it was not. (Though there is actually a lot more clearance working from below over there).
Swivel impact sockets are your friends, albeit expensive ones.
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Old 04-18-2006, 07:53 AM   #26
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I just wedged a ball joint seperator between the subframe and the CA ball joint, tapped it with a hammer and it fell right out.
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Old 04-18-2006, 07:58 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritalin Kid
I just wedged a ball joint seperator between the subframe and the CA ball joint, tapped it with a hammer and it fell right out.
Well, my problem was that 16 years of corrosions and gunk made it impossible to get the nut all the way off. I was able to break it loose with the stubby 22mm, but in only got so far. The lower side came out of the subframe pretty easily - with a pickle fork - but I had to drop the subframe so I could cut the top of it off with my grinder.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:22 AM   #28
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Droppint the subframe is still faster especially if you are doing the steering rack at the same time. Them impact swivel joints are god's gift to earth, best $20 I ever spent (bought a lifetime warranty unit).
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:40 PM   #29
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Good writeup... but I wouldnt trust those high pressure lines with hose clamps.
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Old 04-20-2006, 01:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by equate975
Good writeup... but I wouldnt trust those high pressure lines with hose clamps.
There is no high pressure hose lines with hose clamps on an E30. Only the low pressure lines have hose clamps.
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