regular old m60 swap

[36brua]

Hi cylinder 4/8 ring info attached
My #8 plug is a bit 'dirty' even with new CCV and OSV I'm going to mod OBD1 manifold as described in one of the posts- use OBD2 CCV and center tube



https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...very-important! http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M60...se_Ventilation.

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M60_M62_M62TU_Engine_Crankcase_Ventilation.htm

[dothadance]

Hi cylinder 4/8 ring info attached
My #8 plug is a bit 'dirty' even with new CCV and OSV I'm going to mod OBD1 manifold as described in one of the posts- use OBD2 CCV and center tube



https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...very-important! http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M60...se_Ventilation.
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M60...entilation.htm

My #8 plug is actually the cleanest out of all of them. So that sludgy oil blow by from the inferior ccv into that cylinder is probably what killed it then, huh? Fking lame. Moving in a month so I have no more money for this right now... unless there's some miracle fix and my rings aren't actually shot. Maybe one day.

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[The Dark Side of Will]

Ah shit........!

White smoke is generally oil.

Perhaps the rings are stuck from sitting?

How did you acquire the engine? Do you know any history?

Negative, ghost rider. WHITE smoke, combined with the smell of coolant in the exhaust, is generally coolant. BLUE smoke is burning oil. BLACK smoke is way rich.

HOWEVER, fuel can give white smoke if the cylinder is not firing... e.g. if an injector is stuck open.

My #8 plug is actually the cleanest out of all of them. So that sludgy oil blow by from the inferior ccv into that cylinder is probably what killed it then, huh? Fking lame. Moving in a month so I have no more money for this right now... unless there's some miracle fix and my rings aren't actually shot. Maybe one day.

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Take a long screwdriver. Put the tip against the injector body and the handle in your ear. You should be able to clearly hear the injector pulsing. Try cylinders you know are running to get the sound. If you don't hear the injector pulsing, it's stuck and that could be your problem.

You can do the same thing with a mechanic's stethoscope, of course.

Get a definitive diagnosis, then we can figure out how to move forward.

[dothadance]

Negative, ghost rider. WHITE smoke, combined with the smell of coolant in the exhaust, is generally coolant. BLUE smoke is burning oil. BLACK smoke is way rich.

HOWEVER, fuel can give white smoke if the cylinder is not firing... e.g. if an injector is stuck open.



Take a long screwdriver. Put the tip against the injector body and the handle in your ear. You should be able to clearly hear the injector pulsing. Try cylinders you know are running to get the sound. If you don't hear the injector pulsing, it's stuck and that could be your problem.

You can do the same thing with a mechanic's stethoscope, of course.

Get a definitive diagnosis, then we can figure out how to move forward.

Took my stethoscope to it. I can hear it firing for sure. Put a little bit of oil in the #8 Cylinder and compression tested it again, much higher numbers. Swapped my o2s around again, runs the same, stomp test still doesn't work.

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[36brua]

Have you tried any penetrates is the cylinder(s)?
if you fill a cylinder- more than a couple of table spoons- be sure to TURN THE ENG OVER BY HAND NOT WITH STARTER and suck out excess fluids

??Marvel Mystery oil
ATf/ acetone 50/50 mix
Kroil


or Robert K's concoction below

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=3770987&postcount=7

ROBERT K

Seafoam through a vacuum line only cleans carbon off the piston tops and valves. It won't help with cleaning lifters at all.

Lifters usually get ticky when they (A) are contaminated with oil build up / sludge or (B) the associated piston rod bearing or main bearing in line with the lifter is excessively worn and dumping oil pressure.

To clean high mileage lifters the best method I've found is this:

- Dump your existing oil out
- Fill with 4 quarts of Rotella T 15w40 (high detergent conventional oil),
- 1 bottle of Seafoam,
- 1 Quart of ATF (whatever is cheap)
- 1 small bottle of Marvel Mystery oil.
- Go run the piss out of the car for 30 mins.
- Drain the oil again, replace the filter, and dump in your preference of oil.

This will clean out EVERYTHING in your motor. After 30 mins of driving what you empty from the oil pan will be black and spew out of the oil drain hole like water so be ready.

Worked 2 out of 3 times this year because one of them turned out to have a bad rod bearing. The other 2 cars were stock high mileage 24v cars.

Clean lifters won't care what oil weight you run. Heavier weights just raise oil pressure to force the oil into the clogged lifter passages.

[dothadance]

Have you tried any penetrates is the cylinder(s)?
if you fill a cylinder- more than a couple of table spoons- be sure to TURN THE ENG OVER BY HAND NOT WITH STARTER and suck out excess fluids

??Marvel Mystery oil
ATf/ acetone 50/50 mix
Kroil


or Robert K's concoction below

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=3770987&postcount=7

ROBERT K

Seafoam through a vacuum line only cleans carbon off the piston tops and valves. It won't help with cleaning lifters at all.

Lifters usually get ticky when they (A) are contaminated with oil build up / sludge or (B) the associated piston rod bearing or main bearing in line with the lifter is excessively worn and dumping oil pressure.

To clean high mileage lifters the best method I've found is this:

- Dump your existing oil out
- Fill with 4 quarts of Rotella T 15w40 (high detergent conventional oil),
- 1 bottle of Seafoam,
- 1 Quart of ATF (whatever is cheap)
- 1 small bottle of Marvel Mystery oil.
- Go run the piss out of the car for 30 mins.
- Drain the oil again, replace the filter, and dump in your preference of oil.

This will clean out EVERYTHING in your motor. After 30 mins of driving what you empty from the oil pan will be black and spew out of the oil drain hole like water so be ready.

Worked 2 out of 3 times this year because one of them turned out to have a bad rod bearing. The other 2 cars were stock high mileage 24v cars.

Clean lifters won't care what oil weight you run. Heavier weights just raise oil pressure to force the oil into the clogged lifter passages.

Didn't put too much oil in, and stopped it when i saw the gauge reach around 160. Trying to clean everything is worth a shot, cheaper than buying another motor that's for sure. Thanks man, i'll give it a shot.

...don't have much to lose at this point.

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[dothadance]

Here's a picture of my plugs from that bank. 5-8 from left to right.

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[dasmanschaft012]

despite your current issue, its good to see you working on the project again!

[bmwmaniac2]

replace those plugs with new, don't think they will ever fire properly again

[dothadance]

despite your current issue, its good to see you working on the project again!

It feels good man. All I've been doing the past 7 months is acquiring projects and sitting on them.

replace those plugs with new, don't think they will ever fire properly again

Lmao, didn't even think twice about that. Def need 8 new ones. Next week, new plugs and im going to try and clean the inside of the motor with the method described a few posts back, hopefully something is just gumming up that cylinder.

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[dothadance]

Got 8 new plugs (cheapos, but they should do the trick ngk 5553), and a whole assortment of fluids listed previously in an effort to get any crud out of my motor. Moving into a house with a garage in 3 weeks... I honestly don't know what I'm going to do. It's been years since I've had a garage to myself. Weird shift for this thread, no more parking lots, or side streets, OR HILLS!

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[dasmanschaft012]

having a garage is great. more room, more security, less time crunch

[P Arkus]

I just read this thread all over again! Keep going man. I was in the same boat. Money flowing out more than in, other life priorities taking over, believe me its all worth it in the end! I spent over 3 years doing my swap and i'm still working out little kinks, but its great to be driving it!

On that note, I wanted to ask you about your PS delete. When you used the 7PK1388 serpentine belt, did you change your idler pulleys or leave them stock?

[dothadance]

I just read this thread all over again! Keep going man. I was in the same boat. Money flowing out more than in, other life priorities taking over, believe me its all worth it in the end! I spent over 3 years doing my swap and i'm still working out little kinks, but its great to be driving it!

On that note, I wanted to ask you about your PS delete. When you used the 7PK1388 serpentine belt, did you change your idler pulleys or leave them stock?

haha thanks man, i finally got my shit under control... hopefully. as far as the serpentine belt i seem to recall using two of the same pulley. if it were 2 smaller or 2 larger i couldn't tell you (i want to say it was 2 smaller pulleys). A few of the early m60 swap threads discuss it with each other.

[P Arkus]

Awesome. Thanks man!