Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[Jaker]

Is it for a Getrag or ZF trans? That should answer my question. And is it twisted, or bent?

Just went and had a look on IE's site. Is it this one:

https://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/E36-clutch-driveline/e36dssr190.html

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Is it for a Getrag or ZF trans? That should answer my question. And is it twisted, or bent?

It's for a zf320 and it's straight. The ends are ever so slighty rotated with respect to each other, like 3 degrees. Its the model meant for an e36 with zf trans.

[Jaker]

Could you measure it accurately for me? The one on IE is 190mm long, and UUC says the one for my car is 189mm (close enough). The ones for ZF 5 speeds are 198 according to UUC's site.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Could you measure it accurately for me? The one on IE is 190mm long, and UUC says the one for my car is 189mm (close enough). The ones for ZF 5 speeds are 198 according to UUC's site.

Well, the IE rod is 202mm center to center, and the oem rod is 198mm center to center.

UUC has it right. Also they have the nicest piece imo. I have one on my other e36.

Really though none of them will affect operation (as long as they're not twisted), it'll just change the natural "center" of the shift pattern forwards (with a longer rod) or backwards (with a shorter rod) so you can kinda adjust the shifter position to suit your driving position.

[Jaker]

OK. Thanks. Too bad for me.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

OK. Thanks. Too bad for me.

Why's that?

[Jaker]

I thought I could buy your IE DSSR but it's too long for my car.

[Varinn]

It looks like it's stainless in the picture, I bet it would be easy to grab it, shorten, and reweld. Pay a welder $10 and you're laughing or if you have a buddy who can TIG it would be simple

[Jaker]

I don't know too many TIG welders that'll take on a job for $10. However if the price is right, I might still be interested.

[butters]

Awesome build, really impressive.

Question for you - when you bent the fuel lines away from the frame rail, did you do anything to secure them? I'd like to take this idea, but it looks like you lose the final clamp on the lines. Did you add another one or just leave it as is?

Bent the fuel lines up toward the back of the motor so they'll be pointed to the right spot for the new fuel rail. OBD2 rail with integrated FPR and the feed/return lines exit downwards behind the intake manifold.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I don't know too many TIG welders that'll take on a job for $10. However if the price is right, I might still be interested.

Places around here are usually willing to weld something up quick if you ask and hand them cash. You're welcome to it if you want, PM me

Awesome build, really impressive.

Question for you - when you bent the fuel lines away from the frame rail, did you do anything to secure them? I'd like to take this idea, but it looks like you lose the final clamp on the lines. Did you add another one or just leave it as is?

Thanks! I did "lose" the last clip but it's a hardline and doesn't go anywhere. I added zip ties to the clamps before it just to make sure it stays in place.

The fuel lines are actually something I intend to change. I've never really been happy with them since the feed/return lines on the e36 rail aren't flared for a hose to slip over with a hose clamp. I actually had one line pop off a while ago (in my driveway thank god). I've been considering either some quick disconnect fittings that clip onto the hardline and allow you to use AN hose, or going to a yard and taking a set of e36 fuel lines keeping the end that clips onto the e36 fuel rail, and cutting the other end to clamp onto the e30 hardline.

Both the e36 and AN lines are much more flexible than the gates barricaded fuel injection hose I am using which made install and hose routing much more difficult.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Changed the selector rod on my shifter back to the oem rod. It's a brand new oem selector rod and believe it or not when paired with a new selector joint and new yellow plastic washers there is absolutely zero play in the joints. This took all of the mechanical linkage play out of the shifter so what's left is play in the transmission itself. I have just a few mm of play in any gear. It's nice :)





Made these little ramps from spare plywood. Makes jacking the front of the car much easier. The car is too low to get the jack directly under the subframe, but now I roll up the ramps and have it easy lifting from the subframe. It's the little things...





The massive brackets I have don't allow enough adjustment of the seat to get it into the position I want. I took a lot of measurements, reviewed the specs of a bunch of different brackets and sliders and finally decided I'd just have to order a set of sliders and brackets to see if they'd work. I chose the sparco sliders and a set of planted universal brackets (because these seemed to have the most adjustment available).

I was hoping to be able to bolt the sparco sliders straight to the floor, but they're too narrow to fit the oem m12 hardware. Next idea was to make a bracket to adapt the sliders to the floor. However the rear passenger foot vent is int he way and would cause the bracket to be raised.... then I remembered I don't have a back seat anymore :devil: out comes the box cutter...





In the meantime I decided to make use of the prototype rear seat delete that I made a few weeks ago with 2man and -ak and covered it with some random scrap carpet I had lying around. I'll probably give this away when I get the upholstered pieces back from -ak.





Love it when the drill press speed is right, and I've got a sharp drill bit... I'm a nerd





After cutting out the foot vent I was able to mount the adapter bracket much more flush to the floor. The adapter bracket is just two pieces of 1 1/4" x 3/16" steel going across the front and rear oem mounting points to allow a narrower mounting for the sparco slider. This took way longer to make than it should have. I was very paranoid about keeping it all perfectly square to avoid having the sliders bind up if they weren't perfectly parallel.





Seat in car testing positioning. Much better! Once I'm done on this side I'll duplicate for the passenger side and list my refurbished oem sliders + massive brackets for sale.

[Northern]

Re: Early E39 M52 fuel rail...

I flared the ends of mine to keep the hose on, but I think this was the wrong way to go. If I went back, I'd try to use the (IMO somewhat ironically named) "quick disconnect" lines. Not sure if I can really go back to them now though.

I don't like using AN lines for low pressure stuff either. Oil lines or something, sure, but Fuel lines will maybe see ~65psi with 1 bar of boost (If I'm thinking about this right) so it seems like a bit of a waste.

[Northern]

WHat changed from the old one? I thought it was just the base design, not really a functional change. Regardless it's a very nice piece, worth every penny.

The old version just had a shittier looking base:




I think the one you received looks like V2 after some "lessons learned"

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Re: Early E39 M52 fuel rail...

I flared the ends of mine to keep the hose on, but I think this was the wrong way to go. If I went back, I'd try to use the (IMO somewhat ironically named) "quick disconnect" lines. Not sure if I can really go back to them now though.

I don't like using AN lines for low pressure stuff either. Oil lines or something, sure, but Fuel lines will maybe see ~65psi with 1 bar of boost (If I'm thinking about this right) so it seems like a bit of a waste.

Yea sounds like you can't go back now. I attempted to flare mine but my flare tool is too cheap to handle the steel. I don't think that was "wrong" at all. That's how the factory e30 lines were connected. The advantage of the an lines here is not so much the pressure rating as it is durability and reliability ie they won't pop off or split from ethanol etc.

The old version just had a shittier looking base:

I think the one you received looks like V2 after some "lessons learned"

Ahh ok, yea I saw that earlier version. Functionally they're the same. I didn't mind the design either... old design was a 2 piece base that encapsulated the joint. New version is 1 piece base with a circlip holding the bearing in.