don't know if it was covered here...know that your tranny didnt take a crap from the m50. its from you, years of bad driving or just age and combination thereof. no need for all these parts unless you want the gearing from the ZF, get another g260... just fyi to save you some $$
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E30+M50+ZF+E30 driveshaft= HELP!
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No more e30s for me.
88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
91 BMW 325i [sold]
86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold]
http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs
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Originally posted by etxxz View Postdon't know if it was covered here...know that your tranny didnt take a crap from the m50. its from you, years of bad driving or just age and combination thereof. no need for all these parts unless you want the gearing from the ZF, get another g260... just fyi to save you some $$
And almost after $250 in labor to make the shifter straight, and a new Getrag 260. The cost of getting this ZF was $350, let's say I get a drive shaft at the most $150, they are basically equal in price. Just depends on preference.
And I tried twisting the selector rod and adjusting the shifter carrier, nothing worked in the end to make the shifter centered. Even my own fabricated transmission brace didn't sit the engine/tranny at the perfect area, even though I measured it perfectly.
All in all, what I am trying to say is getting a ZF was the best idea to me, cost efficient for the setup I am personally looking for.
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Just do what I did.
Purchase a 1988 325e Guibo (96mm) from BMA for around 30 - 35 dollars.
Get a 9/1986 - 1988 325e front-half driveshaft. Around 12 - 15 dollars at the junkyard.
Get a new e30 CSB - 30 -40 dollars.
Balance the driveshaft (should require close very little shaving to balance it) - don't know how much but it isn't much.
All of this works and is the cheapest with new parts you could possibly do. It is exactly what I am running.
SINdelle:E36 M3 5-Lug | 17x8 & 17x9 BBS RS | S52/ZF | 2.93LSD/3.5HFM/24lb Injectors/C&S Chip[B]SOLD[B]
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Originally posted by WADE30 View PostIs the new E30 CSB necessary? or can I use my old one? how long do they usually last?
Altho, I'm not one to talk, I reused my 1 year old one on my swap.
Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!
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From comparison of the M3 drive shaft and my stock E30 one, I don't think there a way to put the front half of the M3 DS on my E30 DS. The CBS is located before the U-joint on the M3 DS but located after the U-joint on the E30 DS.
I wonder if it would cost a lot to cut the front of the M3 DS and adapt it to my E30 DS then get it balanced. OR it might be better to keep most of the M3 DS and then cut weld on the rear of the 4-bolt E30 DS.
Can anyone of you older members enlighten me on this issue?
thanks!
Wade
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How the heck do you get the CSB off an E36 M3 manual driveshaft (with u-joints)?!
I have a bit of a frankencar. It's an S52+driveline swap into a '91 318i. It has the CSB for the chassis (offset style from later E30s, not centered) but it's installed backwards. So I wanted to remove it, flip it and reinstall (to get rid of a vibration under load in 1st and 2nd and unloaded between 40-55mph).
I've got a bearing puller and it just appears to be pulling the outer race or the dust guard or something else that's *not* the bearing itself.
I've got it off the car now and will try again with the bearing puller but I think I've wrecked it unfortunately. This was supposed to be the *easy* part of the whole process…
Some pic:
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Do you need to install the driveshaft backwards?sigpic
Instagram: @DrLeadFoot
Build Thread for the Turbo S52:
http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...turbo-install/
Running log of the daily E46 M3:
http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...46-m3-journal/
Flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/70254549@N06/
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