Torsional Vibration Absorber and shifter bushing Question

[E30 331is]

PO bent the selector rod to accommodate a Z3 shifter while keeping the "harmonic balancer". For some reason its getting difficult to put in 1st and 3rd gears and recently the shifter feels sloppy. The difficulty to put in gear is because of the selector rod being pushed on #3 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...22&hg=26&fg=10
I want to remove it and have read that it has no negative factors if removed. When I closely examined it I noticed 3 of the bolts are Knurled and are part of the unit. What bolts can I replace them with once removed? Also when I remove it will there be a gap or play in the drive-shaft since that space is going to be missing?

I will be replacing all items in this picture http://pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarti...ings/pic15.jpg including Derlin bushings for #5 for the sloppy shifting. Is this overkill?

[CarsSuck]

Im in a boat of similar design so Im in for the answers. I want to know if these things fail. Are there supposed to be gaps in the rubber that is circumferential to the weight?

When I did my shifter i just did a little mashing with a BFH to flatten it a bit more. I got me enough clearance. Are you sure it's making contact? It will buzz the hell out of the shifter lever when it does that.

[E30 331is]

When I did my shifter i just did a little mashing with a BFH to flatten it a bit more. I got me enough clearance. Are you sure it's making contact? It will buzz the hell out of the shifter lever when it does that.

PO had smashed it and bent it as well, I know 100% it makes contact because in 2nd I feel and hear it buzzz. Also if I put it in gear while rolling it scrapes in a rotational feel. I have been under the car when someone shifts and I can see the contact as well.

Anyone else?

[E30 331is]

Come on, someone has to know something regarding this on the forum!

[CarsSuck]

Well what are you asking? according to your link to realOEM there are two options for the bolts in question (#5) the knurled bolt was used on cars that have the dampener, not all do. There is a 2mm difference in the length of the two bolts, 50mm for a regular hex and 52mm for the knurled bolt. Unfortunately realOEM doesnt list a thread pitch, but its either 1.5 or more likely 1.25 and its an M10.

You can either just order the hex bolt from your dealer or take a nut to lowe's and find a bolt that fits. Since realOEM lists that bolt as class 10.9, and it does see a lot of load, I would get quality hardware from an autoparts store.

Or you can just remove your selector rod and modify it a bit more. I don't like bending it because it changes the overall length of the rod.

[CarsSuck]

One more thing, to replace the bushing and shift coupler on the trans you'll need to drop the rear of the trans and probably have to loosen motor mounts and lift the engine a tad to gain access. I have failed twice at reaching it, even with the driveshaft removed. There just is very very little room on top of the transmission to get any leverage on the "bitch clip".

[E30 331is]

Once the dampener is removed, would the ~2mm gap it leaves behind cause flex or other issues to the driveshaft splines?

^I have removed a shifter carrier before, I know what a pain in the ass it is, I believe i have figured out an easy way using a thin flathead and wedging a deep socket under it while putting leverage from behind using my barely fitting fingers.

[CarsSuck]

Once the dampener is removed, would the ~2mm gap it leaves behind cause flex or other issues to the driveshaft splines?

Nope, you would just adjust the shaft length at the coupler. 2mm is trivial. A lot of cars weren't equipped with the harmonic dampener to begin with.