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They always do that when they fail. I have seen too many failed belts over the years of working on these cars. Worst part is, people would come in and have suspension work etc and they would have the belt snap not long after. I always suggest that if you don't know your belts age, just change it now while you can. Always crack up when they reply "but it runs fine, and the belt looks ok." All the failures looked fine too :/
This. Takes a few hours to avoid a whole lot of hours (and $$).
So no signs of age cracking in the rubber? Did you note the brand on the failed ones?
I just change my tb. It was 5years old, under 60k. Water pump was leaking so did the lot. I had it a bit over tensioned as it was a bit noisy/whiney ever since 2012 . It looked fine but the rubber wasnt as supple due to the heat and constant flexing as the new one so looks can be deceiving
89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
Well I decided to not wait. Stanzi, at just south of 30k will get a new timing belt, adjusters, water pump, front engine oil seals and valves adjusted. Also, a first time manual transmission fluid change. Once done I will be set for maintenance for the next 4 years (averaging 1500 a year!)
Well I decided to not wait. Stanzi, at just south of 30k will get a new timing belt, adjusters, water pump, front engine oil seals and valves adjusted. Also, a first time manual transmission fluid change. Once done I will be set for maintenance for the next 4 years (averaging 1500 a year!)
Don't skip the mission critical tension spring. It's under $2 and th only time it does anything is when you turn the engine over 2x by hand before you lock down the tensioner.
Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
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